Total distance 52.9
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 495m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 418m
Yesterday evening the other woman turned up at the hostal, Connie from Denmark who is also walking the Camino. A similar age to me and very easy company. We didn’t set off together today because she needed to wait for the shops to open so that she could buy a SIM card. After posting my blog, I wandered out to find some supper. I would have bought something in a shop, but it seems so expensive here that I can’t bring myself to do it. Six euros for a kilo of nectarines! I think lots of items are expensive down south, but they’re twice as much here. Maybe the small villages will be more reasonable. And of course it was Friday night, so everyone was out “to see and be seen”. I suppose I do find big cities a little intimidating when I am alone, I much prefer small villages. My daughter Ella, who is something of a foodie, will be aghast to know that I ate a beef burger in San Sebastián – what a pleb! But it was cheap and tasty and was accompanied by two glasses of wine.
I have altered yesterday’s distance downward by one kilometre. Because I hadn't started my GPS at the beginning of the walk, I used the stage distance given in my guide book, but I presume it was measured from albergue to albergue, and I stayed in the city centre and the albergue was a good distance further on.
After setting off from San Sebastián at a leisurely 08:10, my first stop was at 21 km at 2pm in Zarautz for beer and pintxo of calamares – two euros each – the beer was quite big, as was the one I had yesterday, so perhaps not such a bad price. I shall have to remember to order a small one next time. I’m not generally a beer drinker, but I need something to quench the thirst and wine would be gone way too soon.
I would have stopped sooner at Orio, a coastal town, but both bars I passed were extremely busy, absolutely buzzing and I find it very difficult to adjust from a solitary walk to being surrounded by very noisy people – so on I walked.
Today I have been very tired and extremely slow, I guess as a result of my exertions yesterday. But I am not in a hurry. The way has been either uncomfortable rocky dirt track or on the road – a lot of road, but almost entirely very quiet with very few cars passing and those that did were driven by courteous drivers who slowed down and allowed plenty of room. The scenery has been very pleasant, but on the whole not as stunning as yesterday.
I didn’t mention the signage yesterday. It was excellent and has been again today – can’t fault it.
My GPS told me I had walked 21 kms from the centre of San Sebastián to Zarautz, where I could have stopped for the night, but even though I was rather weary (huge understatement) I decided to walk on to Getaria.
Zarautz seems at a glance to be a town of many apartment blocks and a fabulous beach. The arrows direct you through the central streets, which may be to get you to the albergue (which is only open for a couple of months in the summer), although there is an inexpensive alternative at the camping ground. But I discovered that if you are walking through and not staying, you could walk along the promenade which would have been preferable.
The distance between Zarautz and Getaria is approximately 5 km and there is a wonderful promenade all the way. For the whole distance the prom was bordered with a beautiful stainless steel barrier – I can’t begin to imagine what that must have cost.
Getaria is a most beautiful town with a fabulous sandy beach and a marina and some pretty architecture. I am staying in the private albergue Kanpaia, 12 euros, plenty of wc and shower facilities, washing machine, and nice garden to dry your washing. The only negative as far as I am concerned would be the rubber covered mattresses, but there again, it may be that there is less chance of bed bugs, so perhaps I shouldn’t moan about that.
The albergue is directly on the Camino, but quite a climb out of town, so I may well not go back down the hill for some supper. They offer a limited choice of meals here (and wine), so I might well just stay put. Vamos a ver!
The weather has once again been very kind to me. Completely dry all day with even a glimpse of the sun this afternoon. Those camino angels are certainly looking out for me. Light showers forecast for the morning and cloudy sun for the afternoon – let’s hope they can keep it up for another day.
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
I wonder what camara do you have? Lovely pics!
Buen Camino
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Sleep well dear Maggie, you are some woman for one woman! Imagine seeing a robin, we never see robins in Andalusia and I love them. Were the other gorgeous creatures lamas? There is no doubt travel broadens the mind. Buen Camino xx
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Your posts are absolutely the best!!
Thank you,
rba
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Thank you
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Beautiful photos as always!
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Thank you indeed – looking forward to looking at your video gallery x
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Oh please bring better weather with you to Bilbao!
I did Donosti-Zarautz…then left from Zarautz 7 months later. Gipuzkoa has better etapas than Bizcaya, I have to say.
I’m sure you already know, but I will warn you that the Deba-Markina has very little places along the way. There is a newer albergue, but I’m not sure if it’ll be opened.
I wanna get out on the Camino again already! I hope the rain goes away so I can get some practice time in soon.
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PD: Buen Camino 🙂
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Deba is probably one of the least charming towns I have passed through so far. Some pretty houses near to the beach but a general air of tiredness. Thanks for the warning – I’m not very good at studying the guide book. I have plenty supplies so should be ok. And there is cloudy sun forecast for today. By the time I reach you I should be bringing glorious sunshine with me!
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I find Deba to be full of the coldest people I have ever met. Definitely not one of my fave places.
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También me sorprendió a mí la carísima valla de acero inoxidable de Zarautz a Guetaria.
¡Que tengas suerte con el tiempo!
..y ¡Buen camino!
Nota: En Deba hay un magnífico albergue nuevo en la antigua estación.
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Saludas Jesus, y Muchas gracias.
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Beautiful Pictures…I’m following you and wishing you Buen Camino
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Dear Maggi, I was asking about the camera you use to take your wonderful pictures, what kind and what size.
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Hi Jeannette, will respond in a separate post.
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A sincere Buen Camino Magwood, and looking forward to hearing about your latest journey.
You may feel tired and slow – but not unusual at the beginning, as I am sure you know. You will soon get into the “rhythm” Drink plenty of water (6L/day) – I am concerned your backpack is heavy, and full of non-water items! Goodness, hope I do not sound like your “mother”
Janice (Maidinbham)
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Hi Janice – yes my I am carrying a lot of weight (including excess kilos of body weight). My gear is split between my backpack and waist pack and my water is carried on my chest straps, so it is well distributed – but still adds up to a lot of weight on my feet. So far, so good!
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Hello Maggie, can I say that I read your Camino Frances and Portuguese blogs and found them (and you) inspirational. You should be proud as punch of all your achievements. This blog is even more enjoyable as I wait for each day’s instalment.
I have one question… how do you generate the elevation and distance maps?
Buen Camino
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Many thanks for your very kind comments. I use the wikiloc app, which I have found to be fairly accurate as compared to dedicate GPS units.
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I’ve been following your preparation and now I’m going to really enjoy reading your blog every day, you are one amazing woman, I was ‘introduced’ to you by Janice Tyler who I know will also be following your blog..
Buen Camino!
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I am following and Maggie is a superhero to me..as well as being a lovely person to know
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Yay, Janice, super supporter!
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Thanks Sue. Yes, Janice is a great supporter, even though she is no longer a neighbour.
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Dear Maggie –
I loved your post for Day 2! Your account of the day and the beautiful photos were so terrific. The droplet of water on the leaf was a standout photo!
I hope the weather gods keep walking with you for tomorrow and the coming days …
Take joy in every step –
Camino hugs – Jenny xxx
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Weather has been kind so far Jenny. I have to say, I was rather pleased with that raindrop pic.xx
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Hi Magwood,
I look forward to following your blog – I am planning this camino in September!
buen camino
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Fab photos. Hope you feel more refreshed today xx
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Maggie, I know it’s been said before, but it’s got to be said again – you are one helluva woman!! I am in total awe of your spirit and determination. To get up and undertake something as momentous as this, on your own, is nothing short of incredible!!
May the Camino Angels keep their watch over you and your fellow travellers.
Stunning pictures as usual – you should look at getting them published!
xxx
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They are looking after me thus far Kay. Many thanks for your continued support.
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I am so glad I found your blog. My husband and I are bringing our folding bicycles to the Camino del Norte in about a month. We hope to ride from San Sebastian along the mostly paved roads, being very careful not to disturb walking peregrinos.
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There are loads of cyclists using the tracks that are shared with the GR122. I’m definitely not a cyclist, but a lot of the tracks would be very challenging I would think.
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I am so happy you are sharing your experience with all of us! What a treat 🙂
–absolutely loved the raindrop pic! wow….
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Hi! I’ve been reading your blog and I love it! I’m planning on doing to Camino del Norte this September and I was wondering which guidebook you used and which app for the GPS. Thank you very much!
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Hi Pauline. I used “The Northern Caminos” guidebook by Dave Whitson and Laura Perazzoli. I believe there is soon to be an update, so I would suggest you find out when this will be available, and wait for it to be released. I use Wikiloc to record my walking routes, but Maps.me is very useful to download tracks to, as it will show you where you can find shops, banks, bars etc. A really good tool. If you are not familiar with it, be sure to download it to your phone before you leave and also download (whilst on wifi) all the maps you will need for the areas you are passing through.
Buen camino!
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Thanks for your perspective on the trails. I was looking to see what the route was like between Zarautz and Getaria and you’ve not only written about it, but added a great photo! Thanks! Lorill
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Very glad that it’s been useful to you. Buen camino!
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