Camino Torres, stage 5, Ciudad Rodrigo to Aldea del Obispo 32 km

Posted on 23/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 32 km
Elevation gain 425 m
Elevation loss 385 m
Total distance from Almería 977 km

We leave this charming walled city via the Roman bridge, meeting up with Aurelio along the way. 2.5 km from the city centre we reach a quiet country lane and at 5 km it changes to a gravel track. We are walking between vast fields of cattle, black to one side of the track and tan and white on the other. We remain on this track until we reach the village of Gallegos de Argañan where we stop for a drink.

Unusually we pass a couple of trees that are full of stork nests. I guess there are no tall buildings in the vicinity so tall trees have to suffice!

There is significant cloud cover today, and the air feels humid. Although it isn’t sunny, it is quite warm.

On leaving Gallegos we are on asphalt until 23.5 km where we stop in the village of La Alameda de Gardón and we find a plaza with benches where we eat lunch from our supplies.

Up to this point this stage has been the least interesting and least beautiful of the Torres thus far, but during the last quarter of our walk both the track and scenery improve with narrow paths and heavily wooded hillsides.

We then passed over a cattle grid and as might be expected found ourselves in a field full of cattle, large ones, and baby ones and big daddy bull ones. Once again Aurelio and I positioned ourselves either side of Marilyn , and even with our protection she was very anxious. But soon enough we were exiting over another cattle grid. Personally I find the cattle grids more frightening than the cattle!

Finally we find ourselves walking alongside a river and have to cross a very long field of very long grass. This is quite slow-going as it is necessary to lift our feet quite high to make our way through the field, and it is also quite hard work! And it also fills our shoes and socks with grass seeds which are the devil to remove!

At 30 km we arrive at the village of Castillejo de Dos Casas and now have only a further 2 km to our destination. But this includes a rather tricky manoeuvre on some granite block stepping stones over a river. I do my usual trick of letting the others go first whilst I video their antics. Aurelio makes it across safely but not so Marilyn. She has relatively short legs and the stones are spaced far apart and as her foot rests on a smaller stone, it wobbles and throws her off balance (easily done when carrying a big pack) and she lands with both feet in the fairly shallow water. As her shoes are now soaked she takes the easier route through the water to the other side. Then it’s my turn to try my luck and it really isn’t that easy, but I manage to maintain my balance and make to the other side with dry feet.

The small town of Aldea del Obispo (translates as Bishop’s village – the second pueblo with this name we have stayed the night, the other being on the Variante por Trujillo) has a municipal albergue. We have been trying to contact them by phone for a couple of days as Aurelio had heard that the albergue had closed. We received no answer from a variety of numbers that we found, so held no great hope of being able to stay here tonight. But the helpful villagers directed us to the albergue building next to the church and a young man was sent to find the hospitalera who arrived quite quickly. There are three rooms, one with one bunk bed, and two with two bunks, plus a few extra mattresses. There are four showers, two loos and each dorm has a basin. Add to that a fully functioning kitchen and dining table, a rather scruffy back yard and a grassed area to the front and we are all very impressed with the well thought out facility. 15€ with towel but no bedding, 20€ if you need bedding. There is a good shop in the village so you can buy food to cook, and of course there is a bar where you can order a meal. Website and telephone number for the hospitalera Rosi 0034 628 549 912.

Marilyn took this pic of me waiting for Rosi to arrive. A typical expression after walking 32 km!

Aldea del Obispo is only a couple of km from the Portuguese border and we are all rather excited to be crossing to a different country tomorrow morning.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe variante Trujillo, Camino Torres | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

Camino Torres, stage 4, Alba de Yeltes to Ciudad Rodrigo 26 km

Posted on 22/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 26 km
Elevation gain 147 m
Elevation loss 282 m
Total distance from Almería 945 km

We were on the road for 7.5 km this morning – all the way to the village of Bocacara. A quiet road with little but fast traffic and as usual they all gave us plenty of clearance. We arrived in the village square looking for the bar – unfortunately it was closed. We asked a couple of guys what time it opened and one guy told us that the other guy was the owner. He duly opened up for us and as soon as we left he closed it again .

Once we left Bocacara we were immediately on track walking through open parkland of cork oaks. It is already hot by 09:00 but there is a light breeze to help us along. The sky is completely clear and very blue. Recent days have all started with very clear sky but by mid day or early afternoon it becomes dotted with white fluffy clouds and often there is a breeze to help keep us cooler.

We move onto a long long track between fields of oak trees – not many animals on this stretch, but oh such beautiful surroundings and flowers. The track becomes bordered by cistus and although it is still only in bud, the scent is lovely. In a couple of weeks this track will be an arcade of white blossom.

Just after we have set off from our breakfast break a cyclist comes along in the opposite direction and stops to speak to Aurelio who is out in front. As Marilyn and I approach we are informed that there is a bull loose on the track ahead. Cycle man says it is a few hundred metres away. Marilyn is instantly anxious to put it very mildly. The three of us walk along quietly wondering all the time how we will deal with the situation when the time comes. We had walked quite a way, more like a km, and I was beginning to think it was the cyclist’s idea of a joke. But then Aurelio spied the beast standing amongst some bushes at the side of the track. Large indeed, tan coloured, and most definitely a bull. I was game to walk past, but Marilyn was so scared that we decided to retrace our steps until we could find a place to cross the barbed wire fence into the field alongside the track. I found a section of fence that was broken and passable – maybe where the bull had escaped from. Marilyn and I crossed into the field whilst Aurelio waited for Eli who was taking her time behind us.

Soon enough we were alongside the bull and he was definitely interested in us. I took some photos as we passed whilst Marilyn urged me to keep moving and not make eye contact.

After quite some distance of walking by the fence (in a field that had unseen and unknown occupants – but I didn’t mention any of my thoughts to Marilyn who’s heart was already racing) we found a section of the fence that we could scramble under after removing our packs. I went first, trying to crawl commando style, but my bum stuck up way too high and I had to flip over to complete the exercise. Marilyn learned from my mistake and shuffled under, then we brushed ourselves down and waited for the others so that we could show them where to pass under the fence.

On reflection I felt really sorry for the bull, who may have been out of place for days and it could be days more before he was missed and looked for. We saw no one but the cyclist all day and we could see from footprints in the dirt that the poor chap (bull, not cyclist) had been wandering up and down the track for some time.

Shortly after the bull incident we came to a beautiful path through shady woodland protecting us from the heat from the mid day sun. It was glorious, the flowers were stunning and path comfortable – absolutely perfect walking. When walking on a road you are always hoping for it to end as soon as possible, but when walking on a track like this I was wishing for it to never end.

We eventually came out onto a wide track past a few farms and stopped for a lunch break.

This track varied from smooth sand to rough stone. Stone that is embedded in the dirt is uncomfortable but not too difficult to walk on, Whereas stone that is loose on the surface is very uncomfortable and can twist and turn your feet in all directions. Talking of feet, my left foot is virtually recovered now – just a bit stiff when I first rise in the morning but for the last couple of days has been fine all day.

We could see the impressive outline of our stage end from quite a distance and we could tell we were in for a treat.

There were only about 2 km of hard surface through the suburbs until we passed through one of the gates to the walled city of Ciudad Rodrigo. Impressive stone buildings abound in every direction and walking through the narrow streets we soon found ourselves in the Plaza Mayor. We had booked into a private albergue outside the city walls where beds were 15€, but when we arrived we were told that there were no dormitory beds remaining and we would have to pay 23€ each for a triple room. We gals thought we could source better accommodation for that price and returned to the centre of town where we found a set of rooms in the Hospederia Castillo Plaza Mayor for 75€. It took us no time at all to turn our lovely bedroom into a wash house and then we set off to find my favourite supermarket at the edge of town.

I manage to overbuy again so will be carrying a horrible amount of weight tomorrow until I manage to transfer it from my pack to my stomach again. But I did have a lovely supper. Mercadona sell pots of pre-cooked rice and quinoa and I mixed this with avocado, cherry tomatoes, red pepper and kiwi fruit. It’s surprising what can be prepared whilst sitting on a bed! And I have more of the same for tomorrow, plus some hummus and seeded rolls. I should be sorted for the next few meals.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe variante Trujillo, Camino Torres | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Camino Torres, stage 3, to San Muñoz to Alba de Yeltes 27.5 km

Posted on 21/05/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 27.5 km
Elevation gain 239 m
Elevation loss 237 m
Total distance from Almería 919 km

It is a cold start to the day with mist rising off the crop fields. We leave town via a green tunnel of trees. The weather remains still and although it rained and thundered a lot yesterday afternoon and evening, the sky is now fairly clear and I’m hoping for dry weather

We remain on the road for 5 km and we see the same views as on previous days – holm oaks dotted around crop fields, and holm oaks dotted around pasture land. The way is well marked with yellow arrows, but I would highly recommend also using some form of GPS route backup.

Once on the track it is mostly a very comfortable walking surface. We take a breakfast break 7 km in a sunny glade – it has already warmed up by 08:30. And as we rest in this beautiful spot – it is an absolute treat to just sit and enjoy the view and drink in the tranquility of this camino stage.

I’ve now eaten muesli three ways (1) with oat milk (2) with peach juice (3) with water. Number three is surprisingly acceptable!

Aurelio has information that I lack regarding an approaching river crossing. Probably not so much a river as marshy land that floods to some degree when there has been wet weather. We decide it is wise to take avoiding action and so at the 10 km point we divert by turning right onto the road for a few hundred metres. Then we take the first track on the left, first track on the right, next left and keep straight on until linking with original track at around 13.8 km

There is a lot of water on the track but always with room to navigate around it.

The route changes from wide track to a narrow path and we are surrounded by beautiful flowers – lavender, miniature cistus, white broom and orchids – the route is entirely tranquil, just birdsong, wild flowers and fleeting thoughts.

We progress to more dense woodland, ducking under low branches, some shrubs and trees entirely clothed in thick lichen.

At just under 17 km we have to cross a stream. Boots off, crocks strapped on, wading just under knee-deep through the icy water. We all agree it was rather refreshing.

The next river crossing is over the Rio Yeltes, a much wider affair with channels of water running through outcrops of rocky stones. Aurelio and I skip and slide across the slippery stones complete with boots. I land in the shallow water several times but my boots live up to expectations and don’t let any water in. Marilyn and Eli go for the boots off option and take their time wading through the water.

We then have only around 3 km to complete our stage and arrive at Alba de Yeltes and find the albergue at the very beginning of the village. An old school house looked after by Aurora tel 0034 618 289 544, or pop into the bar a few doors along and ask them to contact her. There are six beds complete with bedding. A microwave and coffee perculator and good hot shower. There are several bars in the town but it appears there is only one small bread shop that also sells a few other items. Nothing fresh unfortunately.

We eat in the bar closest to the albergue and they go out of their way to accommodate Marilyn and me. Nice town, nice people, nice albergue. Thank you Alba de Yeltes.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe variante Trujillo, Camino Torres | 16 Comments

Camino Torres, stage 2, Robliza de Cojos to San Muñoz 20.5 km

Posted on 20/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 20.5 kM
Elevation gain 106 m
Elevation loss 140 m
Total distance from Almería 891.5 km

We were treated to a rather lovely sunset last night and this morning the sunrise was quite spectacular.

It was rather cold in the albergue last night. My lightweight sleeping bag isn’t made to give great warmth. I also have a silk liner. In anticipation of insufficient warmth I wore rather more clothes to bed than is normal. Merino wool leggings, merino T-shirt and after half an hour of feeling a bit chilly (translate as bloody freezing) I added my down jacket and was consequently quite cosy.

As we left the albergue on the dot of 07:00 the air was still and the sky was clear. Our maps.me route directs us to retrace our steps along asphalt for several km, but Eli and I spot a track that could shave off at least half of the distance. We persuade the other two to give it a go.

The first half of the route is superb, wide gravel track. But then we come to a gate that leads to a crop field of rather tall something or other. It almost swallowed Marilyn up – with her green backpack rising above her head she virtually disappeared from sight. And because it had rained last night the crops were rather wet. I stopped to put on my gaiters to protect my boots from some of the moisture. We traipsed along a barely visible track for around 1.5 km, twisting our ankles on unseen branches on the completely overgrown track. The end was finally in sight when we realised that the track led directly through a paddock filled with sheep. Not too much of a problem you might think. But of course the sheep were being guarded by two rather efficient mastins. Definitely a problem! So we skirted around the paddock and came to a barbed wire fence that needed to be crossed. Luckily it was in good order and the wires were very tight and strong. In turn we each removed our packs to be held by another whilst we carefully climbed over the fence trying hard to avoid the barbs and jumping down the other side onto our intended path. Taking this alternative route was rather foolhardy and could have been much worse than was the reality. My leather boots and gaiters protected me from the worst effects of walking through wet crops, whereas my three fellow pilgrims were all wearing textile shoes and their feet were swimming within. Worth a try? Maybe. To be recommended? DEFINITELY NOT!

We then walked on the cañada real (via pecuaria – drover’s path) for the rest of the stage. Various surfaces, mostly dirt based. A few water features to negotiate but none that caused our feet to get wet feet (at least any wetter than they already were). We passed several farms, this giant bull stood guard over his herd but wasn’t really interested in engaging with a motley crew of pilgrims.

I snapped this stork just as it took off, but it looks as if it’s about to belly dive into the ground

The forecast rain finally put in an appearance and we made a pit stop to apply rain gear. Whilst the thunder chundered on for ages the rain was soon over. Overall it was easy walking almost no elevation and lovely scenery all day.

Finally San Muñoz came into sight, although hidden from the track until the last moment. The village is very friendly. I had read that there was a well stocked shop and a kitchen at the albergue, but it is Sunday and village shops don’t normally open on the sabbath. After asking a local about the albergue, he led me to the house where I needed to obtain the keys. No answer to the knock at the door. I popped my head over the gate of the next house and was greeted by a very bouncy dog who would have been happy to remove my nose. Luckily the lady of the house came to see what the commotion was about and fetched the keys to her neighbour’s house and found a set of keys to the albergue. I was very anxious to find the shop in the vague hope that it was open. Aurelio and I reached the town square just as the church emptied from Sunday mass. The hospitalero of the albergue found us (not difficult to spot two pilgrims hanging around expectantly) and asked a woman if the shop might open. She very kindly knocked on the door of the shop owner who graciously left her lunch to open up for us. I bought a selection of veg and a jar of white beans (and a bottle of wine) and happily toddled off to the albergue knowing that at last I could eat a nutritious meal.

To find the keys, walk along the main road until you see the Bar Recreo, there is a road running alongside the bar and the house opposite is where the hospitalelro Tomás lives. If you receive no answer pop your head over the green half-door at the next house. The albergue is at the very end of the long main road, alongside the Medical Centre. There are three rooms with beds, a kitchen with plenty of equipment, a reasonable bathroom, a yard to dry washing and a pleasant sunny sitting room.

I cooked a very tasty dinner and was able to share with Eli and Aurelio who went to the bar for supper but found there was no food. San Muñoz is a very friendly and characterful town with a pretty plaza and extremely helpful locals.

A good end to a pleasant day.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe variante Trujillo, Camino Torres | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 7 Comments

Camino Torres, stage 1 Salamanca to Robliza de Cojos 31 km

Posted on 19/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 31 km
Elevation gain 233 m
Elevation loss 195 m
Total distance from Almería 871 km

The rain that was forecast for our day off on Friday hardly materialised – just a few drops in the evening. We spent the day meandering around this beautiful city.

This morning (Saturday) we left our lodgings in time to wander slowly through the city streets to our rendezvous point with pilgrim number four.

En route we met a charming man who engaged me in conversation in order to inform us that we were walking in the wrong direction, which we weren’t as we were heading for a different camino starting point. He strolled along with us and shared that he had walked 22 caminos, but had now hung up his boots. He challenged us to guess his age, I was least flattering guessing 70 whilst the others opted for mid sixties. In my experience people only challenge you to guess their age if they hope you will underestimate, but I was still surprised when he told us he was 82 and he even produced his identity card to prove it.

As we walked back across the Roman Bridge, by which we had entered the city a day and a half ago, I spotted Aurelio waving at the far end. It was lovely for Eli and me to meet him again and introduce him to Marilyn. The others took advantage of the churreria van for coffee and churros whilst I ate my muesli (and sneaked a couple of delicious churros) before we set off on our new adventure.

Ancient wanderer top right

The Camino Torres is not well known and not much walked. It heads west from Salamanca and crosses the border into Portugal where it meets with the Camino Portuguese at Ponte de Lima. The first stage was a long one for the two newbies, and also for Marilyn and me – our fifth stage of 30+ km.

The walk out of Salamanca through the suburbs was only about one km from the Roman bridge and was fairly well signed with yellow arrows, and then we were on a fairly quiet road for a further km before reaching a track for a couple of km and then back on the road and then back on track again, running between a quiet road and railway line with a motorway beyond. It was quite pleasant countryside with crop fields on either side. Eventually we crossed over the motorway and found ourselves on the wide track of the Cañada Real at 10.5 km (I forgot to start recording on Wikiloc until we reached the edge of the city so all distances should be increased by approx 1 km).

Initially the track is bordered by holm oaks but there were some peculiar trees in the fields beyond. I think they are also holm oaks which are growing amongst the crops. They have been pruned in a fashion to remove all lower branches so that the harvesting machinery can pass underneath and make the best use of the land. This theory supports my guess that these oak trees are protected by the government, otherwise surely they would be felled.

Once we are in the countryside there are not many choices of direction to be made, although a few forks presented themselves at which point I checked the track in maps.me

The chirping of crickets has accompanied us for the last few days.

We remained on the Cañada Real for the rest of the stage. And it was all very lovely scenery with the trees and the very green fields. Not many animals. It became very hot and I made use of my umbrella as a sun shade – it was so still that I didn’t have an issue with the drag factor. Part way through I remembered about the royal wedding and as I had good signal on my iPad I thought I would take a look. Now, I know I am a multitasking woman, but even I couldn’t manage a hands free umbrella, two walking poles and an iPad, so I stashed the poles and walked the camino in the shade of my umbrella whilst watching Harry and Meghan tie the knot. I’m not a royalist by any means but I do have a soft spot for these young royals. I shared the nuptials with Marilyn when we stopped for a break.

The stage was flat with varying degrees of (dis)comfort underfoot…mostly reasonably smooth, but a lot of stony and rutted ground. I met a couple of pigs near the end of the stage which gave amusement.

We found a bar as soon as we entered the village. The information given there as to obtaining keys for the albergue were extremely vague and we had to ask several other people before finding the correct door to knock on and then be accompanied to the albergue which is situated in an old school. There were two beds set up in one room and two further beds in an outside storeroom. We moved the furniture around so that Aurelio was alone and we three peregrinas occupied the larger room. No pillows or bedding. No shower or hot water. Three toilets with basins. That’s it. Not too dirty. Donativo. Bar did nice food but really took advantage with the price. Check the cost before ordering! I ate salad and chips (again) and took away a chunk of bread for tomorrow.

Edit: update from Lorna who walked in November 2019…

Update on the Albergue for future readers:
Key is now at 1 Calle de Calzada. They have been doing renovations, it’s been painted and now there is a lovely hot shower, they offered to put the hearing on for me too 🙂 There were only 2 beds but they’ve recently been using the big room for election voting.

Yellow house is where you find the key, situated in Calle Escultor Venancio Blanco

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Torres | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 13 Comments

Camino Mozárabe VdlP, stage 34 Pedrosillo de los Aires to Salamanca 31 km

Posted on 18/05/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 31 km
Elevation gain 260 m
Elevation loss 443m
Total distance from Almería 840 km

I didn’t make many notes today so this post will be a bit sketchy. But firstly, I’d like to say that I wouldn’t recommend taking the diversion through Pedrosillo de los Aires if you are walking the VdlP for the first time. The primary route through San Pedro de Rozados is a beautiful trail with a choice of albergues.

Today I was reminded of a lesson I should have learned well by now…just because there are bars in the various villages en route does not mean that they will be open – especially if you reach them early in the day.

We were hoping to take refreshment at Monterrubio de la Sierra (5 km) and Morille (11.5 km) but neither were open, so poor Marilyn went cafein-free for 22.5 km.

Our first 12 km were on very quiet road with only a dozen or so cars passing us in as many kms.

And then we were on a very pleasant wide track through vast pastureland again, the first half with lots of trees, and then into boundless crop fields stretching as far as the eye can see.

At the top of a rise on the track the city of Salamanca came into view but it is still about 15 km distant. It remains a tease on the horizon for hours to come.

At 22.5 km we reach the turning for the tiny hamlet of Miranda de Azán and arrive at the long awaited restaurant at the entrance to the village only to find our third opportunity for refreshment closed, but a quick consultation on my phone showed an alternative bar where we both quickly downed two fizzy drinks in quick succession.

We still had another 9 km before we reached historic centre of the city and the bridge over the Rio Tormes, at which point Wikiloc stopped recording distance at 31 km.

The albergue is close to this point, but in anticipation of the 16 bed facility being full by the time we arrived, we secured ourselves a twin room in a 4 star hotel for 45 euros. The Gran Hotel Corona Sol is about as far rmoved from last night’s accommodation as can be imagined. Shiny marble floors, ultra modern bathroom, comfortable beds with stylish linen and soft fluffy towels. But it took us no time at all to lower the tone with washing hanging from lines stretched across the bedroom and bathroom. You can take the pilgrims our of the albergue, but you can’t take the albergue out of the pilgrims!

There is a Mercadona supermarket next to the hotel and I made a bee-line for some healthy nourishing food – hummus, fruit, salad, bread, muesli and oat milk and proceeded to eat myself to a standstill.

Meanwhile Eli arrived in the city long haul from Australia and after she had taken a nap I wandered over to the Plaza Mayor to catch up on our news for the year since we had last parted in Finisterre. Now we are just waiting for Aurelio to arrive and we will be a full complement for the next stage of our camino.

Salamanca is an historic and beautiful city with magnificent stone buildings at very turn, down very street, with a massive Plaza Mayor and a very fancy cathedral.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe variante Trujillo, Via de la Plata | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

Camino Mozárabe VdlP, stage 33 Valverde de Valdelacasa to Pedrosillo de los Aires 31 km

Posted on 17/05/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 31 km
Elevation gain 487 m
Elevation loss 320 m
Total distance from Almería 809 km

We slept well and woke quite late this morning but still managed to leave by 07:30. There is a bitter, biting, gusty headwind that threatens to freeze us as we walk, even though the sky is clear and the sun is shining. It seems the coldest start to the day we have thus far experienced and I quickly put on gloves and buff headband over my ears. For me it is essential that hands, arms and ears are protected from the cold in order to operate normally.

After 3.5 km on road we reach Valdelacasa (not too much imagination with village names hereabouts). My info tells me there is a bar and Marilyn is desperate for a coffee…but the bar is closed. We ask a local if there is another bar and he points us in a direction off camino. We find it, but hey – it is also closed, as is the third bar in the village. Off we toddle, knowing there is no chance of refreshment for a further 8-9 km. But we stop on a handy bench sheltered from the wind to eat a belated breakfast. Mine consists of bread, peanut butter and marmite followed by an orange that I peeled a couple of days ago, but still tastes oh so good.

We have walked 6 km on road before we come to a track. I don’t remember walking this far from the village previously, but maybe walking different stages has muddled my memory (which isn’t very good at the best of times). I feel the route has changed since I walked in 2015, and when I get time I will compare my Wikiloc tracks.

We walk along comfortable wide tracks with rolling pasturelands to either side – not many animals in evidence, and we put our heads down against the wind and stride out.

We reach Fuenterroble at 12.5 km and pop into the village supermarket, stop for hot drink and tostada and visit the albergue for a sello for our credenciales as we didn’t get one last night. We have another km or so on the road before rejoining a track and I immediately recognise the splendour I have previously witnessed, although it seems quite different when walking later in the morning. Last time I walked this route at sunrise with shafts of sunlight slanting through the trees and low mists rising from the pastures – a magical experience.

But whatever time of day, this route is beautiful and fairly easy underfoot. There are huge pastures laying empty – no herds of cows for many kms. The whole of the route that I walked last time to San Pedro de Rosados is a real treat, but we wanted to ring the changes again and chose an alternative route that kicked in at 24.5 km from Valverde de Valdelacasa and headed towards Pedrosillo de los Aires.

It took us through magnificent farmland, beautifully maintained and with very healthy looking animals – cows, pigs and horses. There was a fair bit of up and down, but all on good track. We finally reached our destination at 31 km.

There is a donativo albergue here but not one to write home about. There is room for 11/12 pilgrims, in bunks and beds, very few pillows, a couple of blankets that you wouldn’t want your dog to sleep on, and a bathroom that apparently has a good shower but I wasn’t prepared to try it. I shall be one of the great unwashed tomorrow and not at all ashamed of it!

There is a bar next door that reeks of stale tobacco but it was lovely and sunny outside so we sat on the terrace, and with the permission of the bar woman, made up and ate our own food at her terrace tables. Apparently the bar at the entrance to town serves very good and very reasonably priced food, but we had been carrying our own supplies in the deluded expectation that we could prepare our food at the albergue. I ate a salad of courgette, avocado and tomato sprinkled with the faux Parmesan I bought from home – very tasty. Meanwhile Marilyn fed the surrounding animal life with her left-overs.

This dog was very sweet and really reminded me of this YouTube video which you may well already have seen, but it’s always worth another look – https://youtu.be/nGeKSiCQkPw

We had originally intended to take a short stage tomorrow to another off standard stage, but have really had our fill of tiny villages with not great infrastructure, so have now decided make another long stage tomorrow and head straight into Salamanca and have a rest and relaxation day whilst we wait for the rest of our party to arrive.

I have already shared that we are meeting with Aurelio, a kind and generous guy who Eli and I met when we walked from Lisbon. He and his wife kindly gave us a very enjoyable tour around their home city before we started walking the Camino Portuguese in 2014. Last year Eli joined our little gang of camigos who walked from Madrid to Santiago and beyond. And the great news is that she has been persuaded to join us again this year from Salamanca. Marilyn and I are so excited to meet up with her tomorrow, freshly arrived from Australia, to start another camino adventure on a lesser walked route.

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Camino Mozárabe VdlP, stage 32 Aldeanueva del Camino to Valverde de Valdelacasa 31.5 km

Posted on 15/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 31.5 km
Elevation gain 591 m
Elevation loss 303 m
Total distance from Almería 778 km

There won’t be many words today. This is a stage I have already covered back in 2015 when I walked from Málaga. more details and photos here and here

It starts with about 6 km on road with a very narrow shoulder. Then we are directed onto a narrow rocky track running alongside and above the road for a km or so, then swap between road and track until we reach the spa town of Baños de Montemayor after 9.5 km, where we stop for a drink. Marilyn says there is a very nice albergue here and I imagine it would be a good place to stay. There is a steep climb out of the town and then we are on a mix of track and road for a short while until we are back on a good track at 13 km. There are some issues with small lakes on the track which can’t be negotiated but luckily there is a very minor road running alongside, and on several occasions it is necessary to use it to bypass the bogs.

Marilyn insisted I pose with the wisteria, and she is not one to be argued with!

The next village is La Calzada de Béjar at around 23 km. This is a typical stage end for those setting off from Aldeanueva, but we have both stayed here before (in the albergue Alba – Soraya, which was fine, if a bit cramped in the dorm). There seem to be many more options of places to stay in this village than when I was last here, but the facilities don’t seem to have improved. The single grubby bar charges top whack for a soft drink with a deficit of service (although if you are a seafood lover the tapas looked good).

This time we want to shake things up, so continue another 8.5 km to the tiny village of Valverde de Valdelacasa. On the way we are walking on mostly comfortable sand track with extensive pastureland on either side. Lots of cows and calves and some hefty bulls. We both remember a tricky water course that needed to be crossed. I particularly remember it because I slipped on one of the granite blocks used as stepping stones and almost came a cropper. But we were very pleased to find that the slippery blocks had been replaced by a bridge and we both tripped across without fear of ending up in the water.

Valverde is possibly not a place where you would want to rest the night alone. There is one bar, which is also the only place to eat. There is no shop. We are staying in the Albergue Santiago Apóstol. There is a dorm with seven single beds and several private rooms. Dorm with bedding and towels provided is 10€. The info I have tells me there is a washing machine and tumble dryer and a kitchen – none of which are in evidence. There are two bathrooms, but one shower has a broken spray head and can’t be used and the other one, which has a shower with corner doors, has one door missing. Nevertheless with careful hand-holding of the spray head, a lovely long hot shower was had, with minimum spillage of water. The place is clean and tidy, if not entirely ship-shape and Bristol fashion! And it is actually very cold – I hate to think what it would be like in winter! We have the place to ourselves. There is also another albergue here, but I can’t imagine either of them get much business.

The weather has been clear blue sky, sunny but still with a very strong headwind. Good for drying our hand-washed clothes!

My left foot is still presenting problems – some sort of strain I think, but no blisters as of yet.

Supper was salad and chips. Salad consisting of lettuce and tomatoes! Marilyn was presented with the addition of two fried eggs. Sufficient after a nutritious lunch closely resembling last night’s supper!

Because there’s no such thing as too many donkey photos!

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Camino Mozárabe por Trujillo stage 31, Plasencia to Aldeanueva del Camino 35 km

Posted on 15/05/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 35 km
Elevation gain 551 m
Elevation loss 367 m
Total distance from Almería 746.5 km

I felt very sluggish this morning as I walked the three km out of Plasencia. I haven’t eaten that well the last couple of days and maybe I am lacking some nutrients.

As we passed the last house in town the countryside opened up to us. Great swathes of green hillsides with a glimpse of the sunrise bouncing off the Rio Jerte in the distance.

We were immediately walking through land strewn with giant boulders and dotted with holm and cork oaks. That was good, but the not so good was that we were soon enough faced with a steep climb up to a church at the top of a hill, and even worse was that we were walking on a Roman road. Now I’m sure these guys built brilliant roads in their time, but really, they are the very worst surface to walk on…EVER. They play havoc with your feet, twisting and turning and tripping.

But the prize was the view from the top of the hill through the arches at the back of the church.

And then we walked up and down through fabulous countryside on grassy paths, through meadows and woodland. We were sharing some of the walk with cows and their calves and therefore inevitably there were areas of boggy slosh to negotiate, but all in all it was a spectacular walk. The cork trees hereabouts have their bark harvested and the resulting dark reddish brown of their stripped trunks looks spectacular in the sunshine. A lot of the cork oaks have died, and I guess that the harvesting of the bark saps their strength.

We have passed the first instance of broom in flower and the scent is delicious.

We pass through many gates – some well maintained and easy to open and close. Others not so, made of old bed springs and coils of wire and bailers’ twine and almost impossible to manoeuvre. We eventually find ourselves on tracks through dehesas. There are a multitude of tracks and it is difficult to follow our route. I have to keep my eye on my phone screen almost all the time to make sure we stay on track, which isn’t great. We have to walk across the middle of fields on several occasions to regain our route. It is a real puzzle and we would not have stood a chance of finding our way without a track on maps.me.

The dreaded Roman road keeps popping up time and again just to remind us that this is not a walk in the park!

After around 14 km we start to see more regular signage including the occasional yellow arrow,  and I wonder if we are now on an alternative route of the Via de la Plata (VdlP).

All in all it is a morning of quite hard but very beautiful walking.

At 17 km we reach the village of Villar de Plasencia, entered by way of a pretty (Roman?) bridge and some delightful mosaics outside a children’s playground, but the rest of the village is rather ugly, although we do find a welcome bar for a late breakfast of tostada con tomate.

Following the track that I have downloaded we join the N-630 at 20 km and remain on it for 5 km. we stop at the rather depressing Hostal Asturias for a drink, which appears to be a truckers’ stop. Sadly there was a lorry parked up with a load of pigs onboard which were crying plaintively and we were very pleased to leave.

At 25 km we were back onto a track for most of what remained of the stage. At 30 km we have joined up with the Via de la Plata camino that runs north from Seville and we saw the first camino signs since leaving the Mozárabe at Magacela.  Perhaps the last 1.5 km was on the road into Aldeanueva del Camino and on arriving we made our way to a private albergue ‘La Casa de mi Abuela’. We have both stayed here before and liked the place. We have bottom bunks and we are two of three women and many more men of various nationalities. 13€ including bedding. We are now back on a regular camino and will have to get used to sharing our space.

I enjoyed a supper of pre-packaged rice and quinoa to which I added tomato, avocado and courgette. Very tasty and nourishing.

I would like to recommend the bar on the main road in Aldeanueva.  It’s on a corner I think with a terrace garden at the front with palm trees.  I asked for a cafe con leche grande for Marilyn. He showed me a largish glass and I indicated larger.  He made her a delicious coffee in a half pint glass. I then cheekily asked for a vino blanco grande and received exactly that – two or three times the size of recent stingy measures.  He charged us one euro each.  What a bargain!

Sorry for the delayed posting – I had no signal on either my phone or iPad in the albergue and the wifi was useless!

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Camino Mozárabe por Trujillo, stage 30 Camping Monfragüe to Plasencia 12.5 km

Posted on 13/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 12.5 km
Elevation gain 109 m
Elevation loss 170 m
Total distance from Almería 711.5 km

Apologies for the tardy posting of yesterday’s blog, but there was almost no phone signal at Camping Monfragüe and wifi didn’t extend to our bungalow.

Long time readers may have noted that I am not so reliant on visiting bars in order to post to my blog as on earlier caminos. I have an excellent deal for data on my cellular model ipad. My only excuse for visiting bars now is that I want a glass of wine!

Although Marilyn is a coffee addict, she is also a tea totaler. I love her dearly, but am missing my ‘partner in wine’, the lovely Nina who has now returned home to Denmark. We didn’t need to ask each other if it was time for a drink, a mere look would suffice.

This morning we stopped off at the Camping bar so that Marilyn could feed her coffee habit, but not before she told the management what she thought about the dormitory room. We Brits are way too reserved – I admire Marilyn’s forthright approach.

There is not much to say about today’s walk other than that it was extremely windy and entirely on the road again. I actually wore gloves and my rain jacket as a wind breaker today – it was that chilly. And I think we have the better part of Camino weather, further north it is really quite cold.

During road walking recently I have noticed that here in Extremadura, or maybe just on the EX-208, the roads are marked every 100 metres. This morning it occurred to me to count how many steps I make per 100 metres. It turns out I make 130 steps on average. When I stopped to wait for Marilyn to catch up at a junction I told her my interesting discovery, only to further discover that she had been doing exactly the same experiment, and her pace was 140 steps/100 m. Well, how interesting is that? Not in the slightest – but when walking on the road and battling a headwind you have to do something to pass the time.

We arrived at the outskirts of Plasencia after around 8 km and I was surprised at the size of the place. We continued for probably three more km first through an industrial area and then past endless outlet stores and closed supermarkets. Even on a Sunday there was a fair amount of traffic – I imagine it would be a great deal busier on a weekday.

Eventually we crossed a bridge over the Rio Jerte and found ourselves in the old part of the city, with tall buildings on narrow streets, a pretty plaza mayor, a very impressive cathedral (where we called in for s sello). We made our way to our accommodation for the night, Albergue Turistico Santa Ana and are enthusiastically welcomed by the charming Paloma who allows us to leave our bags even though we are hours earlier than check-in time. We set off to explore some of the beautiful places this city has to offer and find ourselves in the 15th century convent that has been transformed into a parador. Hot chocolate for Marilyn and an early glass of wine for me.

We return to the albergue and we are allocated bottom bunks in a room for six. Thus far we have it to ourselves. The bathroom is a perfect example of what should be offered in multi-use accommodation. Separate for men and women. In the women’s facility there are three showers, with frosted glass doors, three basins and three loos. So many places have one bathroom only for as many as 12 or more people. So whilst someone is having a shower, doing their hair, brushing their teeth, eleven others are jiggling up and down waiting their turn. It’s crazy and very annoying. Top marks to Albergue Santa Ana and the very friendly Paloma. 18€, lots of communal lounging/eating areas, situated in the old quarter.

Paloma recommends a visit to the Parque de los Pinos which is a ten minute walk away. As we approach we walk alongside an aqueduct and can hear quite a commotion of what sounds like peacocks calling. Immediately on entering the park we totally understand where all this noise is coming from – the place is inundated with peacocks – dozens and dozens of them and we are treated to a tail display as soon as we enter. Wherever you look there are peacocks showing off – on the ground, on fences, in trees, sweeping the paths with their tails when they are not displaying. Vibrant turquoise abounds at every turn but also lace-white. So many white peacocks proudly displaying their mantilla like tails. Sensory overload. Enchanting. And very noisy as all the males compete for attention. I’ve only ever seen a couple of peacocks at a time – this is an amazing spectacle and in such a beautiful environment with various ducks and other birds that would normally attract attention being totally ignored in favour of their showy cousins. Such a huge treat and it was fabulous to have the time so spend several hours exploring the city.

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Camino Mozárabe por Trujillo, stage 29 Torrejon el Rubio to Camping Monfragüe 28 km

Posted on 13/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 28 km
Elevation gain 650 m
Elevation loss 549 m
Total distance from Almería 699 km

We wanted to get away from asphalt today and we have certainly done that!

We leave before seven and are almost immediately onto track, walking through the Parque Nacional Monfragüe and after a brief foal appreciation session we get into our stride through the beautiful landscape of the park.

No spectacular sunrise this morning as there is quite dense cloud, some quite grey, however the early morning isn’t at all cold, especially after we descend into a valley and have to climb sharply up the other side on a rocky track.

As we reach the top we are taken aback at the sheer number of vultures passing overhead – dozens soar high above us seemingly making no effort to maintain their great height.

There is much birdsong and the wild flowers are an absolute delight. In places we are walking through long grass but luckily there is no dew and our boots don’t get too wet. I can’t actually see the track in some places and I’m very grateful to be able to follow the route on maps.me

After a short stretch on fairly even ground we are once again climbing up to the top of a high ridge covering all types of surface, grass, dirt, stones, rocks, boulders – you name it, we walked on it! The vista from the high ridge took in countless kilometres of oakland as far as the eye could see in all directions. The only blot on the landscape was a series of pylons that accompanied us pretty much all day.

On the other side of the mountain we are greeted by a strong wind and it is considerably cooler going down than it was climbing up.

The walk is absolutely glorious and as we look down deep into the next valley we can spy the wide expanse of the Rio Tajo sparkling below. As we steeply descend we are walking through giant cork oaks. The track here is made of small stones lying loosely on dusty dirt and I slip and skid several times, but my faithful pacerpoles save me from an ungainly fall.

The track is marked occasionally by wooden poles with a purple painted tips and a few metal signs. The area is riddled with walking tracks.

On reaching the river I try to follow the route on maps.me but can’t see how to access the trail. We climb up a bank, keeping the river to our left and fight our way through thick shrubbery, until we realise that this can’t be right. We are looking for the Puente Cardenal an ancient bridge across the river. I have read that sometimes it is submerged when the river is running high. So we have to retrace our steps and cross by the new bridge. When I reach the point on the other side where the old bridge is situated we stare into the water , but can see no sign of the bridge or its access roads. The water level must be really high.

Am image from the internet of the Puente Cardenal

We climb back out of the valley and eventually arrive at our half-way point – Villareal de San Carlos, which seems like a traditional stone village, but I’m guessing that it is fairly modern in construction and has been built as holiday accommodation for the many visitors to this area. We pop into the information office for a sello for our credenciales which have been rather few and far between lately. In answer to my question I am told that just two families live in the village.

We continue climbing after our break, all the way on track bordered on both sides by white cistus which has a lovely subtle perfume. By midday most clouds have disappeared, the sky is bright blue and we have a strong headwind to keep us cool.

After conquering another huge hill we are back amongst the cork trees descending the other side. We look down onto a vast flat plain and can see mountains in the far distance still topped with snow.

Once we are down on flat ground it is easy walking but we are battered by an ever more forceful headwind. The wide track is bordered by dehesas on either side and the flowers are truly amazing – white cistus, lavender, yellow and white daisies, striking purple/blue of the echium gentianoides. The colours and the scenery are absolutely stunning. Mother Nature, left to her own devices – a wonder to behold.

We finally reach our destination after 28 km, though it seems a lot further, probably due to the elevation and slow-going terrain.

I have to say that an outstanding day has been somewhat jaded by tonight’s accommodation at ‘Camping Monfragüe’. As the name suggests it is a campsite with bungalows for rental. When I changed the date of my reservation I was told that there were no bungalows available but they had a dormitory of bunks that we could use. Well, the room looked as if it had been locked up and forgotten for a very long time, with a dirty floor, a dubious selection bunk beds, an inefficient flickering light and not one thing to recommend it, except the price of 10€ per person rather than 50€ for a bungalow. We are told that there has been a cancellation and there is in fact a bungalow available.

The bungalow won out, but still it is a rather sad little affair, desperately needing a coat of paint and lacking any home comforts. Maybe if it had been sunny and warm with no chill wind, we would have spent the evening sitting outside rather than on an uncomfortable setee with the AC blowing hot. Maybe I’m being unfair.

Tomorrow we are walking a short day of around 12 km. I think it might have been a better option to stay overnight in Villarreal de San Carlos and then walk straight through to Plasencia the next day.

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Camino Mozárabe por Trujillo, stage 28 Aldea del Obispo to Torrejon el Rubio 28 km

Posted on 11/05/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 28 km
Elevation gain 180 m
Elevation loss 316 m
Total distance from Almería 671 km

As we left our accommodation and retraced our steps towards the EX-208 we walked towards the sunrise – most unusual on the Camino when the sun usually rises behind us, or to the right.

We had walked a couple of hundred metres from the village when I noticed a gravel track to the left. I checked maps.me and saw no indication until I increased the image size and then I could see the track marked, which eventually linked back into the main road. It is always a bit of a gamble to go off piste and there could be unseen interruptions on the track ahead but we made an uneducated judgement and went for it.

We made very slow progress because of all the opportunities for sunrise photos and close-up animal encounters.

We eventually came to an imposing gate but we were able to unlock it and pass through. And then as we made a right turn in the direction of the road, we crossed a cattle grid and, unsurprisingly, found ourselves close up and very personal with an enormous herd of cattle – of both genders – all with very long and very pointy horns.

Marilyn was extremely uncomfortable but I attempted to assure her that they would be far more scared of her than she was of them. I’m not sure she was entirely convinced, but I tried to put myself between her and them when a close encounter ensued, not that I would have provided a very efficient barrier. The cattle are largely pure black and very impressive beasts. We walked past hundreds of perfectly calm cattle for probably one km before reaching the road and discovered on the gatepost that we had been walking through the property of El Terzuelo de Miramomtes. We have covered 6 km on track and it was a most enjoyable diversion from the asphalt.

But as sure as day follows night, asphalt followed the track and there we stayed for the following 22 km until we reached our end point of Torrejón el Rubio.

The road is for the most part entirely straight with a few bumps and dips and we could see it stretching out for miles ahead. There was one long descent into a valley, over a river and a long slog up a hill on the other side.

We stopped by the side of the road a couple of times for a brief sit down and munch on our supplies. Our hostess at Aldea del Obispo had supplied us with bread, biscuits and fruit for the journey and I enjoyed a peanut butter and marmite butty sitting at the entrance to a dehesa – google description…

The dehesa is a landscape of beautiful harmony. Holm oak and cork trees, grasses, and aromatic plants thrive in an ecosystem maintained by humans for many centuries as a foraging ground for cattle, sheep, fighting bulls and Ibérico pigs.

The weather has been kind to us. There was good cloud cover and the heat of the sun was kept at bay for most of the time. Towards the end of our journey I soaked my scarf and wrapped in across my neck and shoulders for protection.

The road was not over busy, but being very straight meant that without exception all vehicles exceeded the 90 km/h speed limit, but also without exception gave us a very wide berth. But nevertheless, walking on asphalt for 22 km is very wearing, even with beautiful pastureland on either side of the road, and fantastically pretty flowers lining the way.

Tonight we are staying at the Hotel Carvajal. Señora from the Casa Rural warned us that it wasn’t a very clean establishment and she wasn’t wrong. The bar was littered with discarded napkins and wrappers and the terrace outside wasn’t much better. The room is ok. I was very annoyed at being charged 2.50€ for a small beer and so wasn’t prepared to give them any more of my business. We found a delightful little bar in the corner of the plaza mayor where the helpful bar lady was not at all fazed when asked to provide supper for a vegetarian and a vegan and cooked us a delicious fresh vegetable soup and I had a plate of fried veg for seconds.

I may have mentioned in yesterday’s post that this area is a twitcher’s haven with many rare birds. We met a group of Austrians en route today who were very excited at spying a very rare vulture. I must say, to see so many large and powerful birds soaring overhead all day long is a great treat, even if I don’t appreciate how rare some of them are. I just wish it was easier to capture them on camera.

Tomorrow we return to track through the Parque Nacional de Monfragüe. I am expecting a lot of beauty so be prepared for plenty of photos tomorrow.

Just to balance the sunrise pictures, here’s one of this evening’s sunset.

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Camino Mozárabe por Trujillo, stage 27 Trujillo to Aldea del Obispo 14km

Posted on 10/05/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 14 km
Elevation gain 36 m
Elevation loss 144 m
Total distance from Almería 643 km

We left Trujillo almost as quickly as we entered – through a residential area and onto the EX-208, a road with adequate shoulder, not too many (but fast-moving) cars and some varied scenery. The road is marked as a Via Pecuaria, an ancient drovers’ route.

The land outside Trujillo is split into small parcels, divided by stone walls and hedges, which is a pleasant change from the huge rolling fields of cereal crop that we walked through for the last few stages.

After passing through an area called Huertas de Animas the land becomes rougher – moorland with great outcrops of granite strewn amongst the scrub and oak trees.

It’s a pleasant and peaceful walk when vehicles aren’t whizzing by at considerable speed.

The landscape changes to lush pastures heavily wooded with oak and we realise we are in pig country again, lots of young black piggies lolling around in the shade of the trees.

And we see a variety of birds of prey, storks and even a hoopoe.

The flying stork looks to be carrying a new born babe to its parents (when actually it was a horrible piece of plastic)

Soon we come to the turning into the village where we are staying. Once again there is no albergue, although the alcalde will offer the floor of some building and may even provide some foam to lie on. But I also notice when looking at the village on google maps that there is a Casa Rural, horribly expensive, but infinitely better than sleeping on the floor with no washing facilities. The townhouse where we are staying is rather beautifully decorated but sadly without outdoor space. But there is an abundance of piping hot water so I treat myself to an unaccustomed bath. I shop for food for supper and make a dish of tomatos, peppers, courgette, onions and chickpeas, all of which cost me the princely sum of 2.95€ plus another 1€ for a small box of wine. I may have paid a lot for the accommodation but dinner didn’t break the bank! It was tasty enough, with sufficient protein and fibre but lacking in substance. Breakfast is served in the morning and there is a mountain of stuff on the kitchen table that I can’t eat. But not to worry, I can fill up on bread and jam.

Today’s walk was very short at 14 km but the alternative was 39 km into the next town, and as I said before, we are not in a hurry. And although the entire walk was on the road, as I think it will be for 26 km tomorrow, I am sure it is better for my foot to be on flat ground for a while longer. It has improved a little, I purchased some stronger anti-inflammatory gel (Voltadol Forte) which seems to be helping, along with an occasional ibuprofen. Hopefully all will be well before our upcoming trek through the natural park in a couple of days.

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Camino Mozárabe por Trujillo, stage 25/26 Rena to Trujillo 50 km

Posted on 09/05/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 50 km by bus
Elevation gain ? m
Elevation loss ? m
Total distance from Almería 629 km
I have now missed 75 km of the above total

So we jumped on the bus at Villanueva de la Serena bus station shortly after 09:00 (Tuesday 7 May). There were two women in the admin area of the bus station – one who sold tickets when anyone needed to buy them, which wasn’t very often as I think most are sold on the bus. The job of the second woman seemed to be to look out of a window of her first floor domain. When we consulted them to confirm the time of the bus and whether we needed to pre-purchase a ticket, window woman stressed over and over that we would be taking a small red bus…rojo, Rojo, ROJO as she jabbed at Marilyn’s red specs case.

We watched in amusement from above as a large group of school children were awaiting a coach for a super-exciting school trip – some dragging suitcases bigger than themselves. There was much hugging and kissing from devoted parents and much counting of heads by the harassed teachers, and very much excited chattering of said kids.

Once they departed we went down to await the little RED bus whilst the window lady looked out of her window upon her dominion below, and every time a bus of any colour arrived she wagged her finger at us in a negative manner. Eventually a little green bus arrived and she excitedly indicated that this was the one. It seemed she had two jobs to do that morning, but at least she got one of them right

It was indeed a small bus with no luggage compartment and luckily only three passengers for most of the way. We rode 50 km for 7.10 euros which seemed a good enough deal. More people got on as we came nearer to Trujillo and Marilyn and I, and our accompanying backpacks, had obviously taken their normal seats, and there were dirty looks and tuts aplenty.

We are dropped at the very edge of town where green pastures spread into infinite distance on one side and beautiful imposing historic buildings on the other. There seemed to be no industrial or suburb areas – just an immediate introduction to the magnificence of this ancient town. The walk to our accommodation took only about ten minutes and our Hostal (Hostal Hueso) is situated only 50 metres from the impressive plaza mayor. We quickly dump our packs and set off to discover some of the riches that surround us.

We start with the Church of Santiago where we obtain a fine sello for our credenciales, and then continue to the castle where we spend a long time clambering up uneven steps to the top of the castle walls and look down upon the beautiful towers and spires and rooftops of the main square and its surrounding streets. This place is worth a couple of days of anyone’s time, if you like characterful ancient buildings, you won’t be disappointed. There are storks nesting on every available tower and their bill clacking, which is courtship behaviour, is all part of the experience.

My only disappointment with this city is that cars are allowed to park in the plaza mayor, right in front of the bars and restaurants which gives diners a lovely view of a radiator grill and quite often the fumes of a running engine.

We wander the streets for several hours and buy some food for supper. I make a salad that I eat in our room. And then we take the short stroll to the plaza again. I am disappointed to see more cars arriving and filling the square – all part of the ‘Spain Classic Rally’. I hang around until dark and take a few more photos.

It is strange how doing nothing can be so tiring. I actually had my first siesta of this trip. I am tired in a different way after walking but never need to sleep.

Today (Wednesday 8 May) we are taking another day in Trujillo and by now Marilyn and I are both a bit fidgety. It feels all wrong not to be walking. But we have a date to meet others in Salamanca so there is no point in rushing ahead. There are certainly worse places to be grounded in!

We take another walk around and admire a 15 century convent building. As we are standing there two nuns walk towards us and Marilyn engages them in conversation which results in Sister Margaret opening the door to us and telling us about her life at the convent. There are eighteen nuns at the convent and eight of them are from Kenya. This Dominican order is cloistered and although things have changed a little in recent years, for the most part the nuns do not interact outside their walls, but live a life of quiet contemplation and prayer. But over the years the older nuns have become infirm and need to be transported to doctor and hospital appointments and so several of the younger nuns have learned to drive and they have a car for such purposes. Sister Margaret, from Kenya, tells us that she has been part of the convent community for eighteen years and that there are more Kenyan nuns in the other two convents in the town. They go home for two months every three years. She says that when she left her home there were no opportunities to take vows in Kenya, but that is now changing. It was a most interesting way to spend half an hour or so.

We are both keen to get going again tomorrow.

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Camino Mozárabe stage 23, Castuera to Magacela 35 km

Posted on 06/05/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 35 km
Elevation gain 325 m
Elevation loss 461 m
Total distance from Almería 579 km

Today marks the parting of the ways. Marilyn and I are walking a longer stage to prepare for our new direction. We bade the others a fond farewell at the albergue this morning, and then all bumped into each other at the cafe where we stopped from a hot drink. More hugs and farewells ensued.

Poor shot – blame the photographer (not me)

The morning after the night before!

All walking today was on wide comfortable track with similar scenery to days past. Marilyn and I stopped at 14 km for a trackside snack and then continued towards Campanario. On the way we had to dodge an army of minuscule froglets that were hopping across the path – it was necessary to always keep our eyes on the track to ensure no nasty accidents occurred – we don’t want to deprive the storks of their future meals.

Very sadly we passed by the very opposite extreme of the piggy heaven we witnessed a few days ago when we saw hundreds of happy porkers trotting around pristine oaklands. Today it was piggy concentration camp. A filthy, stinking concrete barn with separate filthy, stinking pens where the poor animals had given up all hope of salvation and were huddled together in their own filth, listlessly awaiting a very sad end. The happy pigs are destined for top quality jamon, whereas these sad, miserable creatures would turn up as really cheap cuts of pork in the supermarket. Take a close look at these photos and think hard when you next visit the supermarket to buy cheap meat.

It was rather cloudy and dull this morning which is excellent weather for walking, if not for photos.

We bumped into Nina again at her end point in Campanario at 20 km. I had stayed here three years ago and was quite happy not to repeat the experience. Although it was rather fun watching all the mums and dads, grannies and grandads, aunties and uncles and of course the children, all dressed up in their very, very best for a group confirmation at the church. There were young women in ridiculously tight skirts and high heels hobling along the cobbled streets, young men in their smartest of smart suits, and the children all scrubbed and shiny. Most entertaining.

Then team M set off for the next section of this walk which is an absolute delight. Although by now the cloud has broken up into pretty fluffy puffs in a blue sky with the sun belting down upon us. Marilyn reminded me that I have an umbrella for just such an occasion and up it went, and down came my temperature. I’ve got the hands-free tethering all sorted now and as the day was very still, it stayed put with no drag factor.

We are walking on a fine gravel track, bright off-white in colour that reflects and sun and heat back at us. The path snakes its way across a huge landscape of cereal crops and the occasional olive grove and vineyard. There are a couple of large water courses/lakes that attract the storks and we can see our destination from more than 10 km away.

Magacela sits atop a hill and is crowned by the ruins of a castle. We have both walked this way before but not after already having walked 20 km. it seems long, but oh so beautiful.

We stop to admire a couple of majestic grey horses that have just been gifted a pile of bright green grass, although they are standing in a field overflowing with the stuff. As we stand there, their owner pulls up beside us and shows us photos on his phone of him and his daughter riding said horses at local fiestas, dressed up and coiffed (both father and daughter and horses) and looking very smart. It is a treat to witness such well looked after beasts that are obviously much prized.

At 27.5 km we find a very welcome shady granite seat, the only comfortable place to stop and certainly the only shade on this section. There is an archeological dig alongside that can be visited on weekdays.

We finally reach the bottom of the steep incline up to Magacela. We stop at a fountain and I soak my scarf in cold water and place it on my neck. Pure bliss! I phone the accommodation that I have reserved to enquire about its whereabouts. I only have the name of the hostess and her phone number, but no address. She tells me the address but I can’t make it out. I send a text asking her to message me the address, and we start our ascent. We have reached the impressive granite church on the way up to the village when she phones me back and again tells me the address. This time I ask her to spell it and she tells me that it is situated below the village, so we about turn and completely retrace our steps back down to the outskirts of the town. If only I had known the name we could have found it immediately and easily on entering the town as it is well signed. So for the benefit of others, it is called Casa Rural el Cercón de Candelo, telephone Isabel 651 670 413. I can highly recommend it, situated around a beautiful peaceful courtyard, there are two bedrooms and a bathroom. There may be more beds that I am unaware of. Dinner can be provided. The property boasts an acrobatic turtle that managed somehow to climb onto a full-sized dustbin with no visible means of assistance. Cost 15 euros including breakfast and 10 euros for dinner (the turtle show was free).

Team M have opted to eat all the leftovers from our packs rather than have dinner. One of the Frenchmen is here and when we asked where his friend was, he indicated that they were no longer friends! Not sure what happened there! But I was very pleased when he donated his bowl of salmorejo to me – a very kind gesture.

We probably walked two km further than we needed today, but at least we have comfy beds to rest our heads. Thunder has been rumbling in the distance for a few hours although it is still clear and bright. Tomorrow might be a different story!

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