Trepidatious traveller – camino blog | Camino de Santiago de Compostela – before, during and after

Camino del Norte, Bilbao to Pobeña 27 km

Posted on 04/05/2022 by magwood

I’m trying something new. This QR code should take anyone interested to the Wikiloc route that I recorded this morning. You can also access the track via this link

Accumulated elevation gain 168m
Accumulated elevation loss 173m

I met with Renate at 07:30 and took the option to walk along the east side of the estuary of Bilbao. I walked this route back in 2016, but there are other options. Although the morning was dull the Guggenheim Museum didn’t fail to impress on the opposite bank

This route has improved considerably since I last walked. A lot of the ugly industrial areas have been upgraded and there is now a lovely path right next the estuary with apartment blocks alongside. There is still a certain amount of wasteland before reaching Portugalete but overall it was a much more pleasant walk.

We arrived at the Puente Colgante (hanging bridge) at Portugalete after about 13/14 km. “The bridge was the first shuttle bridge built in the world made with a metallic structure situated at the mouth of the estuary”

Last time I crossed the water in the hanging cradle (50 centimos), but was hoping on this occasion to take the lift to the top of bridge and walk across. However we were told that the lift on the other side of the estuary was not working so we would have to walk across the top of the bridge and back again and then take the cable car. We didn’t have the inclination to do that.

I had also decided that I would make the use of the travelators that give a ride up the very steep hill in Portugalete as I had remained camino-pure last time and walked every step. But sadly they were also out of action.

After Portugalete we are directed onto a cycle/walking path that continues for 10+ km to the small town of Arena. As we get closer to our destination we see more farm animals – cows with their bells ringing such a beautiful tune, donkeys and horses, and some very scruffy looking sheep

At Arena (which has a shop – Pobeña does not), we have a boardwalk alongside the beach and finally a short stretch of sand into Pobeña.

The Albergue at Pobeña doesn’t open until 15:00 and when we arrive at about 14:40 there are already eight weary pilgrims waiting, including Marilyn and Paul who took the bus to Portugalete and walked from there. Marilyn is suffering a bit with her feet but is such a soldier that she keeps on walking.

The albergue has 38 beds (bunks) and is donativo, no kitchen but microwave and separate bathroom facilities. Just had a lovely hot shower and there are clothes-washing facilities around the back.

The albergue is filling up – 29 at the last count.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo, long distance hiking, Santiago de Compostela, Spain, travel | 14 Comments

Let the new adventure begin!

Posted on 04/05/2022 by magwood

I’ve just taken off on my flight to Bilbao and finally I feel excitement instead of slight anxiety about this trip. To be honest I’ve been happy not going anywhere in recent times and could very easily have not made this trip. I think covid has robbed me of my spirit of adventure and maybe a little confidence too. The reason I have pushed myself to organise this trip is that I had a deep seated feeling that if I didn’t camino this year, then I might never camino again – and that prospect would really leave me feeling defeated and depleted.

So here I am, soaring above the clouds that are giving Bristol a very grey day and now I can see the blue sky that I hope will accompany me on this camino.

Checking in with EasyJet at the last minute has paid off again, with a rank of empty seats to myself.

We are now going to be a band of four camigos. My long-time camino buddy Marilyn has jumped over from the Camino de la Lana to join Renate, Paul and me in Bilbao. I’ve not seen Marilyn since we walked the camino Mozárabe from Almería in 2018, when Paul joined me for the last couple of weeks of that camino. The last time Renate and I were together was when she visited me in Bristol soon after I returned from Spain in 2019.

It turns out that Bilbao is also basking under a grey sky. The airport bus reached the city centre within 15 minutes and I was met at by Paul who walked me to my room in the old quarter of the city where I had an emotional reunion and a quick catch up with Marilyn before popping literally just around the corner to the Decathlon store where I finally purchased some walking shoes. Yay – it’s surprising how panic and necessity can make a decision relatively easy. Please all cross your fingers for me that I’ve made the right decision. I have with me an ancient pair of Merrells from my 2014 camino Portuguese that have very l little wear remaining, and I will carry them for a couple of days ‘just in case’!

We then meet up with Renate and her friend Bernadette for a bite to eat and a few drinks. And so a new adventure begins…

The boots dilemma has concluded

Posted on 30/04/2022 by magwood

…in a very inconclusive way! Having tried on dozens of walking shoes/boots in tens of different shops, ordered six pairs from Amazon and several more from other online outlets, I have now officially given up and admitted defeat.

I’ve ruined my old Asolo boots which have carried me over 2,500 kms with barely a blister, due to a bodged home-repair followed by an unsuccessful trip to the local cobbler (I’m forcing myself to resist the pun). I could have had them properly re-soled for a second time at an eye-watering cost, but the uppers are showing signs of wear and I didn’t think it worth the investment. They will now be destined for local walks, but alas no more caminoing for them.

Way back at the beginning of my search (a good six weeks ago) I did buy a pair of Merrells that I really liked the look of and were very comfortable, but a tiny bit too short in the length, and probably not sufficiently robust for the camino, but perfect for other walks. However, having just received the latest pair of ‘not quite right’ footwear from Amazon, the Merrells have now been designated ‘the boots that will have to do’. I have worn them a couple of times on 25+km walks, but without much elevation and I’m just a bit worried that steep descents may cause issues. We shall see – I just can’t face any more searching this late in the day – although there is a Decathlon store next to my accommodation in Bilbao that I probably won’t be able to resist visiting!

I think my stance and stride have changed due to my hip replacement. Originally my operated (right) leg was shorter than my left, although I had never really been aware of it. Post op, it is longer by about 1cm, and feels more so. My pelvis is now a little tilted and I have been wearing a heel raiser in my left shoe, which quickly put a stop to the backache I was feeling. But now, for some reason, I seem to need a half size bigger in walking shoes. I was previously buying a size 8 for the camino which is at the top end of what’s on offer in stores in women’s styles. I’ve tried a few men’s styles but they come much wider than women’s and my feet are relatively narrow. Hence my problem finding suitable footwear.

Other than that I am pretty much organised with backpack and contents. There haven’t been many items to purchase or changes from previous trips. I’ve bought a pair of lightweight trousers that can be worn for hiking or relaxing, a down blanket, and I have designed (hacked) a backpack cover from a Lidl £10 poncho, with which I’m very pleased.

I’ve had to do lots of work in the garden. I had gathered quite a collection of plants in pots since returning the UK and, as they wouldn’t survive long without at least some watering, I’ve transplanted them all into the ground. I shall miss my garden – it’s already very pretty and full of spring colour. And if tomorrow’s promised rain doesn’t materialise, I’m going to have to resort to filling my leaking pond from the tap before I go. I have avoided using tap water for a couple of years since developing a Heath Robinson system that diverts rainwater from my roof into the pond. We haven’t had any rain at all for weeks and the pond is at least 30cm below optimum level at the moment. I keep looking at the forecast which seems to change every day, one day showing a good amount of rainfall due and next time I look there is none to be seen.

My garden has been quite transformed since my return. I realised that my huge 4m²shed was situated in the sunniest part of my garden. So I found a new home for it, and most of the junk that was in it, replaced it with a new shed less than a quarter its size in a shady spot, laid artificial grass over the concrete plinth, made a fake secret door in the back of my neighbour’s brick outhouse, and installed a raised flower bed.

Little Lily has had a pre-camino hair-do. I dropped her off at the groomers a total scruff-bag and collected her a couple of hours later looking like a cute, shiny, silky pooch half the size. Border Terriers should be stripped rather than clipped. The dog-sitter will have a moult-free experience.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo, Preparations | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo, long distance hiking, Spain, travel | 17 Comments

Some interruptions to the camino preparations

Posted on 24/04/2022 by magwood

I’ve had a busy week enjoying my grandchildren and my city.

The children have been on their Easter break. Their parents and other granny entertain them with the fun things like adventure playgrounds, which I’m happy to visit occasionally but don’t want to go on a regular basis. I prefer to introduce them to different experiences. So I was delighted to see an unusual tour that I thought might be right up Mikey’s street.

We Bristolians are justifiably proud of our many landmarks, some thanks to the great man Isambard Kingdom Brunel, responsible for Bristol’s Temple Meads Station buildings, the SS Great Britain (when launched in 1843 she was the largest ship in the world and the first screw-propelled, ocean-going, wrought iron ship), and of course the iconic and beautiful Clifton Suspension Bridge – opened in 1864, it has carried traffic over the Avon Gorge ever since. On the Clifton side, the rock face of the gorge is fairly perpendicular to the river below, whereas on the Leigh Woods side it slopes at an angle, making the span at the top wider than the engineers thought at the time was possible to span. So they built an abutment for the tower on the far side to sit on. Over the intervening years the original plans were lost and it was believed that this abutment was a solid structure.
It was only discovered in 2002, quite by chance, that the structure was actually constructed with 12 domed chambers. It is now possible to take a guided tour of a couple of these chambers, the largest of which is the equivalent height of three double decker buses. The tour involved hard hats, hi-viz jackets, a climb down a ladder, a crawl through a tiny tunnel and finally a breathtaking view of the highest vault festooned with long, thin stalactites – fascinating for children and adults alike. I highly recommend the tour which you can read about here.

The next day was Sophia’s turn. The ‘Van Gogh experience’ is on in Bristol. I had already seen a version of this show in Málaga on the eve of my last camino in 2019. I enjoyed it a lot and decided that another visit was in order. Sophia is a budding artist, always creating wonderful imaginative drawings and colourings so I thought she would enjoy this experience. Well, this show has matured since my last visit. It was a feast for the senses. Lots to keep minds of all ages entertained, with an immersive lounging area where all four walls are adorned with moving images of Van Gogh’s paintings, a drawing room (actually a colouring room) where outlines of his works are provided along with crayons where you can display your framed masterpiece on wall. And finally a virtual reality stroll through his house and all the scenes from his works. It was extremely excellent, though we were both a bit woozy when we removed the headsets and walked back to the train station (the one designed by Brunel).

The walk to the venue was good fun

If you look closely you can see Sophia in the mirror of Van Gogh’s bedroom

And to finish the week off I took a walk along the river Avon this morning. The tide was quite high allowing boats to navigate. It’s quite unusual to see large boats on the river but today I was treated to two. The first one interesting but not very beautiful. Oh, but the second one approached just as I reached my favourite spot on the river at horseshoe bend The Matthew (a modern reconstruction of the original Matthew that John Cabot sailed to Newfoundland in 1497. The modern Matthew was built between 1994–1996 on Redcliffe Quay in Bristol for the 1997 voyage to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Cabot’s most famous journey to Newfoundland and back). That was a real treat and a fabulous way to round off the week.

Now I must get back to sorting out my pack!

Posted in A view of life | 13 Comments

It’s been so long…

Posted on 19/04/2022 by magwood

…so long that I’ve forgotten how to blog! My last post was sent out on 12 March 2020. I’ve occasionally thought about posting in the meantime but haven’t really had very much to say. Fortunately the pandemic hasn’t been too unkind to me – I finally succumbed to the virus in January this year, albeit with very mild symptoms.

Since last writing I’ve been given a new hip and a new granddaughter – though not simultaneously. The hip has been trouble free and the granddaughter is an absolute delight.

And now it will very soon be time to set off on a new camino. Nothing too adventurous this time. I feel slightly uncertain how my new hip will stand up to the inevitable pounding that will be required of it and I am just a little anxious about how easy it will be to camino this year. There will be many pilgrims raring to walk after a couple of years of confinement, in addition to which 2022 has been granted holy year status which always sees more people heading to Santiago. Add to this the likelihood that some private albergues will have gone out of business during the lockdown period. More pilgrims and less beds could well be a problem.

So I have decided to walk within my comfort zone this year. I fly into Bilbao and will start walking the camino del Norte from there, and cross over to the Primitivo. I’ve walked both these routes before, although in different years, so it will all be familiar. I shall ring the changes where I can on the Norte by taking every opportunity to walk coastal alternatives to the official route where possible.

I shall have the company of two special camigos. Renate, my Dutch friend who I know from my time living in Spain. We walked together regularly in the mountains, but this will be her first camino. And we will be joined by my serial camino buddy Paul who I have had the pleasure of walking with on three previous caminos.

Renate and me conquering Lucero with a backdrop of Sierra Nevada

Paul and me on the Via de la Plata in 2015

I’ve just finished planning my stages. The Norte has been a bit complicated because there are so many opportunities to take alternative routes and I want to take them all. Of course if you are wiggling around the coastline rather than taking a more direct route it will obviously add kms. And if the weather is inclement there will be no point prolonging the stage.

I’ve started to gather my gear. But have the perennial footwear problem. There are only two weeks until I go and I have not yet sourced my boots. I’ve had my old boots repaired as a backstop but am hoping that the shoes due to arrive in a couple of days will be perfect.

I’m writing this by way of reminding myself how to post to my blog. I’m not taking my iPad this year so need to become accustomed to posting from my phone. In addition to which there appear to have been a lot of changes to navigate on WordPress in the last couple of years. So I offer advance apologies for any glitches that find their way to being published.

Incidentally the header photo is from the Norte when I walked in 2016.

I hope there are still some followers of this blog after my extended absence. I often dip into past posts and am always struck by the wonderful comments left by friends, those I know personally and those I know only through this blog. They warm my heart. Thank you.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., Camino del Norte, Camino Fisterra, Camino Primitivo, long distance hiking, Santiago de Compostela, Spain, travel | 112 Comments

To camino, or not to camino, that is the question…

Posted on 12/03/2020 by magwood

A few days ago a camino friend (hello Margaret) asked me for my thoughts on travelling to Spain to walk the camino this year. In a nutshell, I am pretty sure it’s not going to happen. I have actually anticipated that I wouldn’t want to risk walking for some weeks.

I am not too concerned about catching the virus, although I am at the lower end of the at-risk age group, I am healthy with no underlying respiratory problems. My unease is created by the thought of being caught in a ‘lock-down’ situation in a remote village where it might be very difficult and possibly very expensive to cater for myself for a couple of weeks isolation period. And it might be very difficult or impossible to travel back to the UK if severe travel restrictions are in place.

I have been following a thread on the camino forum posting the latest official information and confirmed cases around the world and specifically in Spain. It has made me realise how lucky I am to live so close to the camino – although not quite so close as I was last year. I have already booked a flight to Bilbao to start this year’s camino, but it cost me the grand sum of £15 so it’s not going to break the bank if I can’t use it. My time is my own so it hasn’t been necessary to make complicated arrangements to get away for a few weeks, other than organising for little Lily to be cared for. And also, I am an old hand at this camino lark – 2020 was planned to be my eighth year of walking in Spain, and I have sampled thirteen different camino routes.

I feel the anguish of those who are travelling from the other side of the world, who have spent a small fortune on air fares, who may have made intricate plans to arrange care for family members during their absence, have organised extended time away from work, and have been anticipating the wonder of the camino during many months of researching and planning their route, buying gear and getting fit.

The forum thread has so many contributions that it is currently split into four separate sections (first dating from 25 February, second 4 March, third from 9 March, and the latest one started today 12 March. There are many branches to the conversation and it makes very interesting reading, I imagine even if you are not part of the camino community. Many people have been talking about travel insurance issues – unsurprisingly it seems insurance companies will wriggle out of most claims relating to an epidemic. Possible medical expenses or isolation costs could be significant.

Many hospitaleros have been saying that they will keep the privately run albergues open, but do we really want to be in such close proximity to others in the current climate? Sleeping just feet away from others. Will the albergues actually be allowed to remain open if the number of confirmed covid-19 cases continues to climb exponentially?

It must be heartbreaking to cancel a long anticipated camino, particularly for a first-timer. My heart goes out to all who decide to stay at home after making such a huge financial and emotional investment in their camino. And I can also understand the gung-ho attitude of those who are hoping with every fibre of their being that they will be able to continue with their camino plans.

So, back to the original question – what are my thoughts on travelling to Spain this year? I honestly think that unless you are already there or due to arrive within a week or so, I doubt any of us are likely to have the luxury of deciding for ourselves. I suspect there will be travel bans throughout Europe. This is obviously just a personal opinion, but that is what I was asked for.

Many pilgrims have said that they will postpone until next year. But 2021 is a holy year when numbers on the camino are always greatly increased. So there may well be an overwhelming number of pilgrims walking.

Things may change by the date of my flight at the end of April, and hopefully my doom mongering will be proved to be misplaced.

Indeed, as could be expected, things have already changed since writing the above last evening, with Trump’s total ban on non-US citizens entering the country from Europe (excluding UK and Ireland).

Here is a really interesting video explaining exponential growth (just one of the many very interesting contributions to the camino forum thread)…

Difficult times! Stay safe and well my friends.
Buen camino (whenever it happens)

Little Lily, now five and a half months, makes me smile every day. Hopefully she will have the same effect on you

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., coronavirus, cover-19, long distance hiking, Spain, travel | 14 Comments

Thanks Mum…

Posted on 20/02/2020 by magwood

I have many, many things to thank my old Mum for, but one of the most important for me is that she passed on her passion and ability to be creative, to be practical and to make things. She was an excellent knitter and dressmaker, was a dab hand at soft furnishings and loved to craft. At home there was almost always a background sound of clicking needles or the hum of a sewing machine. She even put herself through college as a mature student (in her 40’s) in order to fulfil her dream of being a needlework teacher.

Hence you may have heard me talk about making various items that I take on camino. My backpack-cover-come-shoulder-cape, my visor, walking shorts and trousers, skirt and top. All have stood the test of time and all that the camino can throw at them.

Over the years I have developed a system for maintaining a comfortable temperature whilst walking on the camino. I prefer to wear a sleeveless T-shirt and arm-warmers and until last year I would wrap a scarf around my shoulders and over my chest to keep me cosy on chilly early morning departures. I don’t need any extra heat on my back because it is kept warm on all but the coldest days by my backpack. I overheat quite easily and my system works well because I can adjust or remove the scarf and pull off the arm-warmers without having to stop to remove my pack and jacket.

Last year I bought a lightweight fleece hoodie and cut it up to suit my requirements. This worked really well in the bitter windy conditions we experienced on the Camino de la Lana, keeping my neck and head reasonably warm.

One of the few advantages of these long dark winter evenings is the urge to pick up the knitting needles and create something useful. I saw a very pretty ball of yarn in the sale bin a few weeks ago and thought it would make a lovely cardigan for my granddaughter Sophia, and indeed, when she saw it, she immediately coveted it. Unfortunately for Sophia, before her cardigan was begun I was inspired to use the yarn for a different purpose.

Although I have no need of an alternative shoulder warmer – the knitting yarn was calling – silently challenging me to pick up my needles and get creative! I found a free online pattern for a ‘top down’ jumper and set about knitting myself a new camino outfit, not really expecting it to work and always with a bit of a jokey attitude. But hey, although money is tight, the yarn cost a mere £3.50 so it wasn’t a huge investment.

I am a sufficiently experienced knitter to be able to make adjustments to patterns, and have a fair idea of what will work and what isn’t likely to. I extended the neck and made it with a front opening to give various style options. I shortened the back, as I don’t want any extra warmth where my backpack shelters me for the elements, and I cast off the sleeves midway between shoulder and elbow so that they will tuck securely into the top of my arm-warmers.

There was even enough yarn left over to make a matching hat. I tried it on this morning – a twin-set with a difference! It is lovely and warm and I think it will work a treat. With a combined weight of just over 150 grams and a cost (including a zip) of less than £6. Result! And I managed to find some additional balls of yarn from Hobbycraft website so that I can still make Sophia her promised cardigan.

So, what started out as a big of a giggle promises be a very useful item. My mum would be very proud!

Header pic is just to prove we do have some beautiful days here in the UK amongst all the rain and gloom. Storm Ciara and Storm Dennis each scored a direct hit on my garden fence, but this is small fry when compared to the thousands of poor souls who are left temporarily homeless by the flooding that these storms have caused in England and Wales.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., long distance hiking | 16 Comments

What do you do when…

Posted on 28/01/2020 by magwood

I read a very interesting discussion on the pilgrim forum today, originally instigated by my blogging (and Camino Mozárabe) pal Clare. You can find her blog here.

The title is ‘What do you do when you cannot walk anymore?’ check it out here – it’s quite inspiring.

I only started walking for pleasure in 2013, in training for my first camino at the age of 59. During the intervening years of walking caminos and countless kms up and down mountains around my old home in Spain I have been amazed that my body would consistently do what I asked of it. And the more I asked, the more it would perform. But I’ve taken it for granted, and haven’t really thought at all about how I will deal with declining health as I grow older. I am hopeful that I won’t have any issues this year and for many years to come. The thing that is likely to stop me from walking caminos is not being able to fund them. Although it is a very frugal way to travel – the average daily spend being in the region of 30 euros – multiply that x 30+ and it becomes quite a commitment. But, I shall worry about those things when they occur and in the meantime enjoy every step and every sight and every moment spent with my wonderful camino pals.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., long distance hiking, Spain, travel | 7 Comments

New year, new plans…

Posted on 20/01/2020 by magwood

I hope that all reading this are fit and well and have enjoyed a jolly Christmas and will experience a healthy and active year in 2020.

Since my last post back in October the work on my cottage back in the UK continued at a very slow pace and I finally have a shiny new kitchen and a beautiful parquet floor in my lounge. It all took so much longer than I anticipated, but I guess that is par for the course.

I also have a new love in my life – meet Lily my border terrier pup – quite the cutest canine, who has been my constant companion since the end of November. She is great with my grandchildren and loves every dog she meets whatever the size – she wasn’t even fazed by a St Bernard. But she is hindering rather than helping my walking activities at the moment as young pups should not be walked for more than five minutes for each month of their life until they have stopped growing. I’ve always had dogs and never heard this before, and they all survived without joint issues so I’m following this advice with a small pinch of salt. So when Lily has walked her allotted 20-30 minutes she is indignantly hoisted into the doggy pack for the remainder of the walk – she already weighs five kilos, so at least I am getting some weight bearing exercise.

I do get occasional pangs of envy when I see friends’ fb posts of mountain walks under a stunningly blue Spanish sky. Although it has not been cold thus far this winter in the UK, it has most definitely been grey and very, very wet. Which makes it all the more wonderful when we get a beautiful day like today. A crisp ground frost and thick ice on my garden pond, under the bluest sky without a cloud in sight. Lily and I made the most of it as did every other dog owner and family in the area. Everyone with a cheerful smile on such a beautiful day.

2020 camino plans are forming. I have no desire to return to the Lana to complete the few stages I missed after my hip let me down last year. But I would like to walk the two caminos that I had planned to follow the Lana. So the intention is to walk the camino Olvidado (forgotten way) from Bilbao to Ponferrada and then the Invierno (winter camino) from Ponferrada to Santiago.

The date is set for late April. Later would be better as there is a lot of elevation on the route (up to 1,700 metres) which may still have snow at such altitude.

We will be four walking – two best camigas from previous years and a walking pal from Spain – a camino virgin. Plus another I have walked a few stages with previously who is a bit of a speedy Gonzales and probably won’t hang around for long.

With luck my hip will carry me the 30+ stages without letting me down again. I’ve recently had another revision with the osteo consultant. Unfortunately, I have deteriorating osteoarthritis and loss of cartilage around the femoral head of my right hip. I’m likely to need a hip replacement in the not too distant future, but in the meantime the consultant saw no reason why I shouldn’t tackle another camino. So I need to take lots of weight-bearing exercise to strengthen the muscles surrounding my hips, plus some pilates at home – you might have heard of goat yoga – well I’m currently practising puppy pilates!

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Invierno, Camino Olvidado | Tagged Border Terrier, Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago de compostela, Camino de Santiago., Camino Invierno, Camino Olvidado, long distance hiking, Spain, travel | 38 Comments

Last day – Split

Posted on 18/10/2019 by magwood

Another early morning for me. As much before seven as I can make it out the door, which isn’t usually very much! There is no other sign of life at the hostel when I leave. I wander along the Riva promenade before cutting back into the old town via the very impressive Narodni Trg (people’s square).

The smells of a city dragging itself awake after a very late night are an affront to my senses – pungent fish from the market, freshly ground coffee beans from an empty cafe, cannabis from a lonely straggler left over from the night before.

There is a highly organised army of street cleaners at work – people sweeping and putting rubbish into bags, guys on electric carts collecting the bags, jet washers leaving the stone walkways even more shiny than usual.

There are a few early morning market shoppers, some early departing tourists rattling their cases over the stones, pigeons cooing, gulls screaming, builders banging. The old city is a maze of narrow lanes with many arches and horizontal supports overhead. I stumble across the fruit and vegetable market. Most the the stalls are only offerring in-season produce and I guess they are small-holders who have brought what grows from their own plots.

Feed the birds…I noticed the pigeons getting excited and then I realised why – it’s obviously a regular occurrence

I have the city pretty much to myself for a couple of hours which is really lovely, and I manage to find many beautiful spots before the hordes arrive. I visit the cathedral (it has to be one of the smallest cathedrals in existence), the entry ticket (25 kuna) includes entry to the crypt and the Temple of Jupiter baptistery. But the highlight was a hike up the bell tower (30 kuna). I asked the ticket guy how many steps I should expect and he said just 160. He actually shortchanged me – there were 163, but the first 60 original stone steps should each have counted as two as most of them were 50+ cm high. Luckily after that there were scaffolding steps, not so pretty but a lot kinder on the legs. I reached the top with hardly a quickening of breath – Dubrovnik had prepared me well for for this. The views over the city were, as you would expect, stunning in every direction.

Back with my feet on the ground I found the open dome of the Temple of Venus – a quite magnificent structure where a group of traditional Croatian Capella singers were gathering to entertain the crowds when they turned up.

I’m so glad I was out and about early to experience the ambience of this beautiful walled city because at around 09:00 someone pushed the tourist switch and suddenly there were the same interminable groups of follow-the-leader-people-trains that were so abundant in Dubrovnik.

Of course I don’t think of myself as being the same class of tourist! Individuals like me do not get in your space and entirely take over an area with their presence. (I’m not doing too well in the non-judgemental department!)

Those early hours are very special, both for the morning light and for the peace and quiet.

I pop back to the hostel to get changed and eat some biscuits from my supply. When I arrived yesterday I asked for a lower bunk but there wasn’t one available in the four-bed dorm I had reserved, but I was offered one in an eight-bed dorm and I could change over today. I had a very creaky bed with the worst pillow I have ever experienced in a room full of angst-ridden young men and women, one of whom had the most unpleasant whiny voice and who didn’t draw breath for what seemed like hours. Luckily I have an eye mask with integral ear phones that connects by Bluetooth to my phone for such occasions and so I was able to drown her out with my soothing playlist and managed to get off to sleep without too much trouble. Hopefully tonight will be more peaceful.

Other than the pillows, the Downtown hostel is rather nice with kitchen facilities and plenty of wc’s and showers to go round and even a nice little roof terrace. It is situated right in the heart of the old town and therefore there was the sound of live music and passing voices drifting through the open window, but once that died down, all was very quiet.

I ate at a very nice, very small, vegan restaurant last night – Marta’s Veggie Fusion – and returned there this morning for my first hot drink of this vacation (other than hot water at the accommodation). I enjoyed a delicious hot chocolate with almond milk, and then set off to find the bus station for my trip to the airport in the morning. It is opposite where my ferry docked yesterday, and I purchased a ticket for the 08:00 airport shuttle (34 kuna). I like to check out where I need to be and how long it will take to get there when I am relying on public transport.

Then I took a stroll all the way along the quayside and stopped a couple of times to enjoy the sun shining from a perfectly blue sky. Split has an abundance of public seating, unlike Dubrovnik where it was conspicuous by its total absence. There are so many sailing boats here – from huge great catamarans to little dinghies. Hundreds, probably thousands, of them, all bobing about in the marina.

I found a park above the marina, called Sustipan. A lovely place to while away a couple of hours. I was very well entertained by a party taking wedding photos, bride and groom, bridesmaid and best man and a team of photographers, even employing a drone. That should be a nice wedding video!

I decided a glass of wine was more important than staying in the park long enough to witness my last Croatian sunset over the Adriatic (I had already been there for about two hours). And would you believe it? Just as I was leaving the park I spied a beach bar down below at sea level where happy people were drinking and swimming and sunbathing in exactly the best situation to view that last sunset (Jadran Beach Bar). Judging by the clientele I would guess that this place is a local secret. It was obviously meant to be. And the wine is a very reasonable 25 kuna. Cheers! The perfect end to a perfect stay. (And thank you Eli for pointing me in this direction!)

Something else I’ve noticed in all the places I’ve visited is the copious amount of ice cream everyone (except me) eats. There are parlours everywhere and no matter the time of day or night you will always see countless people devouring a cornet piled high with delicious looking desserts. I must try a sorbet before I go home, but to be honest ice cream without the cream is not much fun. One of the many things I miss on my diet.

I’ve really enjoyed my stay in Croatia. My length of stay was ruled by the available flights, and so it was six days or nothing. To be honest, I think my ideal time for a city break would be from 2-4 days, but considering that I have had four different locations I think I did quite well. With hindsight I wouldn’t have visited Vela Luka but maybe spent one night in Korčula and then moved to a different island for a day before my final stop in Split.

As is my nature and my available budget, I have kept spending to a minimum just in case anyone is interested, this is what the trip cost…

Flights to and from Bristol were £99 (EasyJet)
Bus fare in UK £11
Six nights accommodation £111
Transport- bus and ferry in Croatia £38
Food and drink (in restaurants/bars) £120
Snack shopping £16
Touristy things (entrance fees, etc) £42.50
Mementos (cd/magnet) £8.75

Total cost of trip £446.25

According to the health app on my iPhone
Distance walked 56.7 km
Flights climbed 219 floors

Posted in A view of life, Discovering Europe | Tagged Croatia, Europe, European cities, Split, travel | 8 Comments

Vela Luka to Split

Posted on 17/10/2019 by magwood

After a long and very restful night’s sleep I slowly packed up and left my bag at the accommodation whilst I went to visit the Vera Spila cave. I followed the marked path but soon realised I had missed a sign (I have enough experience of missing signs on the camino to know the signs!). I retraced my steps until I found a likely looking narrow and very steep lane and checked with someone on the way up that I was going in the right direction and soon started to see the signs again. Once above the town the track was entirely on a concrete path with, of course, many steps, that led through olive groves and afforded a more impressive view over the bay below with every few steps. I finally reached the entrance to the cave after climbing 130 metres over about a kilometre.

Although the cave is due to open at 11:00 the gates remain firmly shut until finally a middle-aged woman comes panting up the track calling out her apologies for being late. The other couple waiting had come up on the road by car. Although very interesting, the cave is not spectacular, other than the two openings to the sky. No stalactites or stalagmites, no interesting formations, just rock and mud. The woman in charge, having regained her breath, thought I was together with the other couple and said that as we had to wait she would just charge for two rather than three. The entrance fee is only 15 kuna anyway. When I explained that I was alone, she insisted that I come in for free. And when I put up a weak argument she said well, they are younger than you – let them pay! So age wins out over youth yet again! Another result for us grannies – you’ve got to take them where you find them!

Lovely lady suggested I visit the museum in town where I can see all the artefacts they have excavated from the cave, which I duly did, and was duly impressed.

Here is some information about the cave for those that are interested…

Vela spila is located on the southern side of Pinski Rat Mountain, 130 m above the cove of Kale in Vela Luka and is one of the most important prehistoric archaeological localities in Europe.

The archaeological finds from this site prove that several prehistoric communities have been living here and using the cave in their every-day life and for burying their dead.
These extremely significant finds include thousands of pieces of ceramics, whole vessels and other objects made of earthenware. They serve as the proof of the long history of cultural, social, spiritual and economic relations between the inhabitants of Vela Spila and other parts of the Adriatic and the Mediterranean.

Excavations and the archaeological investigation of the site lead to the conclusion that the cave has been continuously inhabited from the early Stone Age (about 20 000 bc), and there is evidence of an occasional human presence in the following periods – Iron Age and Copper Age. To this day it has been used by the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines and many others.

The entrance to the cave is 1 to 10 meters wide, up to 4 meters high, facing south and offering a beautiful view of a large bay, fruitful Blatsko Polje, the islands of Ošjak, Kamenjak and Proizd, as well as of more distant islands like Vis, Sušac, Sv. Andrija, Biševo and the open sea.

There is a valuable archaeological collection of objects that have been found on this site in the Culture Centre Museum in the town centre of Vela Luka, and visitors can visit the cave in two ways: By car, for there is a 2,5 km road leading from Kale cove to the cave, or on foot along a walking path on the Pinski Rat Mountain.

I then had a couple of hours to kill before needing to retrieve my pack and head for the ferry. So I found myself a sunny bench overlooking the quay and caught up with a few episodes of ‘The Archers’. There were tears shed. I shan’t say why just in case anyone reading this has yet to catch up with recent happenings – but let’s just say I got through two tissues!

Then it was time to grab my pack and head for the ferry – the 15:00 car ferry to Split. Much more utilitarian than the relatively luxurious foot passenger ferry I caught a couple of days ago. I catch up on a couple of episodes of the French thriller ‘The Disappearance’ – a jolly good series and no tissues required!

Three hours later we arrive in Split. Such a change in tempo. There is a great buzz to the town. I eventually locate my accommodation (Downtown Hostel, £28.50 for a bunk for two nights). It is situated right in the heart of the town which will probably mean its likely to be a bit noisy at night, but we shall see.

What a difference a town makes! Split is totally buzzing – a real party town. Bursting at the seams with young people. More discoveries to be made in daylight tomorrow – but on brief acquaintance it feels entirely different from Dubrovnik.

Posted in A view of life, Discovering Europe | Tagged Croatia, Europe, European cities, Korcula, Split, travel, Vela Luka, Vela Spila | 3 Comments

Korčula old town to Vela Luka

Posted on 17/10/2019 by magwood

I was up bright and early again this morning, thinking I would catch the sunrise without too much effort involved. I had a bit of a shock to find the weather had changed and was now presenting low grey cloud with a brisk wind and a very choppy sea. I managed to catch the sun peeping out from behind the cloud for a couple of snaps and continued to mooch about this charming historic town, surrounded by the sea on three sides.

I have the place practically to myself – just a couple of street cleaners up and about. The town is really compact, most of it tucked inside the city walls. And there are a number of rather impressive boats moored up on the quayside. It’s a shame that the day is so grey, and that I haven’t really seen this pretty little town at its best.

I find a supermarket and buy some fruit and tomatoes, and a bread roll for breakfast. I eye up the selection of pomegranates and just can’t resist buying one even though I have no tools to help me liberate the seeds – a resourceful granny should be able to overcome such problem. I pop back to my room to attack the pomegranate with just my bare hands (with some rather strong thumb nails) and leave the bathroom basin looking as though a massacre has taken place in the vicinity (it goes without saying that, like any professional murderer, I leave no trace of my crime). I take a shower and organise my bag in time for checkout and leave it in the hallway for collection later.

I wander out once again to discover some new nooks and crannies. Luckily I also discovered the bus station and enquired about times for the bus to my next stop at the other end of this island – Vela Luka. I also discovered that the church tower was open for a hair-raising climb up an ever narrowing spiral stairway of steep and uneven steps, topped off by a ladder to the viewing platform. The views were magnificent, even on a dull day, and I spent a long while breathing in the atmosphere and putting off the inevitable climb back down, which for me is always so much worse that going up.

My bus leaves at 12:15 and traverses the entire length of Korcula island from east to west a distance of 46 km. We climb up and over the central mountains(? – no idea of the height), and spend a good while with our heads in the heavy clouds. When we are at a lower elevation I can see down into valleys completely full of vineyards. There are some olive trees, but the vines seem to be the main crop. The island is very rich and green with hillsides covered in fir trees, unlike the mountains that form the backdrop to Dubrovnik which are very scrubby. The properties in the countryside are very solid square buildings made of blocks of stone which remind me of some parts of Portugal that I have walked through.

The island of Korčula and its relationship to Dubrovnik

Vela Luka lacks the great charm of Korčula Old Town. There are some old buildings here, but not as many as in Korčula and it is more sprawling, around a very deep bay. I find my accommodation – Mili Apartment – this time I have an entire apartment to myself that can sleep five, with good working kitchen and nice living room – all for the sum of 150 kuna (£17.50).

I’m feeling quite tired today. My calves have seized up from all those steps over the last few days and I think all the travelling has caught up with me. Although I snoozed for a few minutes on the bus, I decide to take a brief nap at the apartment before wandering around the town.

I go back to the ferry port to check out procedure for tomorrow, and then take a look for the only restaurant recommended on the ‘Happy Cow’ app that lists vegan and vegetarian restaurants and those others that can offer something suitable. It is a long way around the bay and I have more or less decided not to eat there as it will be a long walk back to the apartment in the dark. I continue anyway just for the exercise and it doesn’t look very appealing to me. I have seen a decent sized supermarket on the way and decide to buy some wholesome food and make use of the kitchen at my digs. I end up spending 10 kuna (just over £1) on a packet of spring vegetable soup and a variety of veggies to bulk it up, and stop off at a bar on the return journey that is exactly in line with th setting sun. It is good to be away from the tourist groups and the prices that they inspire. The wine here costs 18 kuna for a large glass, rather than 40-50 kuna in Dubrovnik. The only blight is that guys sitting on both sides of me are chain smoking and the breeze is sending their fumes directly to me. But hey, I have a fabulous sunset and I am drinking very acceptable local wine in their town – it could be worse!

I make my soup back at the apartment which turns out to be really delicious, and I’m done for the night. I don’t even have the energy to complete this blog post. I’m moving on again tomorrow, but not before a little adventure to the Vela Spila cave.

Posted in A view of life, Discovering Europe | Tagged Croatia, European cities, Korcula, travel, Vela Luka | 6 Comments

A day on the ocean waves…

Posted on 15/10/2019 by magwood

…except it’s a sea, not an ocean and there are absolutely no waves, it’s as calm as a mill pond.

Much as I have enjoyed my evenings amongst the ancient buildings and narrow alleyways of Dubrovnik, I am not enjoying the crazy influx of tourists during the day, largely, I imagine, from cruise ships. The crowds remind me of the exodus from a large stadium pop concert – wall to wall people marching in columns behind their guide, thinking they own the streets and that anyone not in their group has no right to be there. It’s all too much for me – even the side streets have been invaded. I should have heeded Liza’s advice much sooner and visited when the cognoscenti had the place to themselves!

At this time of year (low season believe it or not) there is only one ferry per day to my next stop and it sails at 16:00 so I have a few hours to kill.

I wrote the above while sitting in the old port at the end of town where the pleasure boats pick up their passengers. My interest piqued when I saw a huge reproduction galleon approaching the quay. It was blasting some familiar classical music one might relate to the ocean. The deck hands were appropriately dressed in period costume. I got up to take a couple of photos and saw the cost for a trip was 150 kuna (around £18). Even my stingy nature could appreciate that it wasn’t too exhorbitant a price to pay for a treat. There is a replica of John Cabot’s ship the Matthew in Bristol harbour and whenever I’ve seen it I have always hankered after a trip aboard.

So I climbed the gangplank and took a seat on the upper deck. There were only a few on board – no more than 25 on a ship that could comfortably accommodate ten times that number. We were entertained by an actor who played the part of Miho Pracat, famous and wealthy Dubrovnik seaman from the 16C, who told us of his derring-dos. It was all very jolly, especially when we were served a glass of cava (a little early in the day even for me, but I didn’t let that stop me!). I think I smiled from ear to ear for the entire 50 minute voyage around the island of Lokrum. It was fabulous and really bucked my grumpy mood. Highly recommended.

From the sublime to the ridiculous!

It was interesting to see in the distance where I had walked to watch the sunrise yesterday morning[

And then to top it off, as I was wandering along the main street a woman stopped me. “Excuse me” she said “do you speak English? I have passed you a couple of times and wanted to say how lovely your outfit is.” Well, blow me down with a feather! My old camino skirt and top that has been screwed up in my pack for at least four caminos and worn countless other times when I want something that doesn’t crease, doesn’t show any dirt and has really useful pockets. That kept the smile on my face for a while longer.

I returned to the vegan restaurant Nishta for lunch. I had to wait for a table and whilst I was eating a constant stream of people enquired for a table. I said to the waiter that they need bigger premises (it is very tiny) but he responded that the owners want to keep it small and keep the quality high. Good luck to them for their principles.

I allowed plenty of time to get to the ferry for the next leg of my journey, which was just as well because I didn’t have a clue where to alight the bus and just followed the lead of others who were wielding suitcases and rucksacks, only to discover that I was at the bus station, not the ferry port which was a stop or two back down the line. 500 metres or so later I arrived just as the ferry was pulling in. No wonder the old town was so busy – I counted five huge cruise ships in the port plus the one moored up alongside the old town this morning.

The ferry makes various stops and I jumped off after almost two hours at Korčula island. I was expecting to have to take another bus into the old town where I am staying, but I was very pleased to learn that the ferry stops right alongside the town with just a few minutes’ walk to my accommodation. (Maria’s place – a double room with en-suite for the less than the price of a bunk in Dubrovnik! Excellent value at £17 per night for the room.)

By the time I had dumped my stuff and wandered back out into the streets it was dark. This town is very characterful, surrounded on three sides by the sea, with lots of arty shops and scores of restaurants, most of which only had a couple of tables occupied. I guess the season is coming to a close which isn’t good for business, but I shall enjoy my brief time here much better for being less crowded.

Posted in A view of life, Discovering Europe | Tagged Croatia, Dubrovnik, European cities, Korcula, travel | 5 Comments

A day in Dubrovnik

Posted on 15/10/2019 by magwood

Well, this evening my legs feel as though I’ve been in a gym all day, working out on a stair master. My day started early. I was awake at 06:00 and out of the door by 06:30 – it was planned to be earlier but someone was hogging the one and only loo. I headed towards Park Orsula, east of the city, reported as one of the places to witness a spectacular sunrise.

There are always steps, either up or down when departing from the hostel. This morning they were up and I exited through the city wall via the Buža gate. After walking through the outskirts google maps directed me to cross the road and take a left turn. Google failed however to warn me that the left turn involved a never ending flight of steps – one hundred and eight five of them to be exact. Then I was walking along a narrow one way road with no shoulder which was never intended to be walked. Up and up it went. Luckily at that time in the morning there wasn’t much traffic but it was a bit hairy and probably 2-ish km.

I looked back to the old town a couple of times and saw a very pale and insipid sun rising, which soon disappeared from sight completely. Hardly worth the effort I thought. But I was already committed to my jaunt, so carried on regardless. It wasn’t until I reached the peak and rounded the bend of this road that I realised (D’oh! – dumb or what!) that what I had been looking at was the moon sinking over the city whilst the sun rising over the mountains of Montenegro almost blinded me.

The area looks as though it is just a viewing point with some parking lay-bys – not a park at all. I was rather disappointed after my 3.5 km early morning uphill hike. But wait! I spied a gate. It led down steep rocky steps to a primitive amphitheatre with the Adriatic Sea for a backdrop. I had the place absolutely to myself and it was magical. I watched as the sun gradually swept across the old town, highlighting the harbour and the city walls. Stunning! I hung around for ages, spellbound by the atmosphere. I finally tore myself away and retraced my steps.

I thought it would be slightly more comfortable walking back down the road with the traffic coming towards me, but I was wrong. It was much worse seeing vehicles speeding towards me and sailing past with maybe a metre to spare. I can’t recommend walking to this point, but an early morning taxi might be the way to go.

I bought a bread roll and packet of biscuits when I returned to town and dropped into the hostel to change into something cooler (my ever-useful camino skirt and top). There is a lovely roof terrace at the hostel where I ate the roll and some cherry tomatoes that I had brought from home.

Having breakfasted and changed, I headed back down the 100 steps towards the main street – Stradun – and received a real shock to the system. What had been a calm and welcoming environment when I arrived last evening was, at 10 am, a boiling mass of tourists – group after group of guided tours filling the street – really not my cup of tea. But I dutifully purchased my ticket to walk the city wall at a staggering cost of 200 kuna (£23!). That was well outside my spending comfort zone, but it had to be done. The wall entirely circles the city – it was well worth the small fortune! Of course there are many steps up and down and always the sparkling Adriatic Sea to be admired.

This tourist city is expensive for my stingy wallet. 50 Kuna (£6) for a glass of wine – and I needed several glasses last evening to make up for my protracted abstinence. After circumnavigating the wall I visited the highly recommended vegan restaurant ‘Nishta’ and I wasn’t disappointed. I ordered a falafel wrap which was delicious and sufficient for lunch with plenty left over for a takeaway supper, 69 Kuna (£8). And then it was time to climb the 100+ steps back to the hostel for a much needed snooze.

Next on the list was a visit to the cable car that whizzes up to the plateau of Srdj Mountain. In just four minutes you find yourself at 400 metres above sea level with incredible views over the city. I opted for a one way ticket at 90 kuna (£10.50 – 170 kuna return trip).

I chose to take the long and winding road back down to the city. And it was a long zig-zagging rocky, stony track through wooded hillsides. I was glad that I was walking down rather than up, but I felt the need to be aware of very step I took on the loose stones.

These large plaques were situated at every turn in the zig-zagging track down the mountain

I would say it was three quarters rough track, and one quarter suburban path and I was well and truly knackered by the time I walked back through the city wall via Pile Gate and headed up many more steep steps towards ‘the place’ to witness the sunset at Bar Buža. I was in the company of hundreds of like-minded tourists lining the uneven steps that led to the vertical cliff dropping into the Adriatic, where a few brave souls dived unknown metres into the sea.

The sunset was not quite as fabulous as that over the Atlantic at Finisterre, but not far behind.

I am writing this sitting in a bar/restaurant on Stadrum, listening to beautiful live music and enjoying very expensive wine. I am on holiday after all!

As a point of interest…the main reason I chose Dubrovnik as the starting point for what I hope will be a series of trips to previously unvisited European cities, is an old song by Liza Minnelli. From the 1972 album ‘Liza with a Z’. My cassette tape of this soundtrack was played over and over in my car for many years. When my kids came along more than ten years later the tape was still in the car and they both remember me accompanying Liza belting out the songs (there’s nothing like a captive audience!). The words of the track ‘Ring Them Bells’ have stayed in my mind over the years, in particular…”Try Dubrovnik, dear before you go home”. Whether of not you are familiar with the song, take a look at the video – she is such a talented performer.

(The original youtube link I posted has been removed, but you can view it here via facebook.)

https://fb.watch/iXvtXc1xFs/

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Discovering Europe | Tagged Croatia, Dubrovnik, Europe, Liza Minnelli, Sunrise, sunset, travel | 5 Comments

Croatia, on my way…

Posted on 13/10/2019 by magwood

In an effort to be more environmentally aware I took the bus to the airport at the start of my journey. How lucky I am to have choices! I could use my treasured bus pass from home into the city centre, but then had to pay for the ‘airport flyer’. All absolutely on time (being early on a Sunday morning there wasn’t much danger of any traffic problems). This was a very minor concession to the co2 emissions I will be contributing to on the flight I am about to take to Dubrovnik, but every little helps and I think we are all becoming more aware of our impact on the planet.

It was good to feel the weight of my backpack again – the first time it has been hoisted into place since I visited Porto at the end of May. I prefer a pack to a suitcase. The noise of those pesky things being dragged around the streets really annoys me – even more so if I am causing the noise! And as Dubrovnik is a city of steep stairways a case would be really tiresome.

This little break also marks the end of almost four weeks of abstinence – potato only diet and no alcohol. I have a supply of delicious sandwiches and fruit which is calling loud and clear to be scoffed after such self-imposed restraint. Food never tasted so good!

I have spent the last weeks preparing for a kitchen refurb, spending countless hours pondering fixtures and fittings, drawers or cupboards, knobs or handles, and a couple of days’ hard labour removing wall tiles stuck tight with super-strength adhesive and carting them off to the local tip together with the huge mound of debris resulting from an internal wall being removed. Once I learned how much it would cost me to have it removed by ‘a man’ I decided to pull my sleeves up and cart it off myself. I’m now on first-name terms with the guys at the tip, or as it is properly known ‘the household waste recycling centre’. Luckily it is only a five minute car ride so my umpteen journies didn’t take too long.

Sadly I couldn’t reuse the existing kitchen cabinets because they differ in dimensions from my chosen replacement, and I was desperate not to have to scrap them as they are in perfectly good condition. Eventually, after advertising on Gumtree and Freecycle and many false starts I have finally found a home for them. So satisfying to know that someone else will make use of them rather than sending them to landfill.

So whilst I am away my builder friend will be removing the base cabinets and plasterboarding (to cover up the awful mess I made removing the tiles) and hopefully it will be ready for fitting the new kitchen on my return, which is currently sorted into neat piles around my living room.

So this little break is much appreciated and already much enjoyed.

Taken from the airport bus – what a delightful introduction to this magical city

Oh, by the way, I received the result of my DEXA bone density scan. It seems I have osteopenia, a stage between normal healthy bones and full blown osteoporosis. A bit of a blow, but it is reversible with medication and exercise. The medication being Alendronate and supplements of calcium and vitamin D. I am already taking vitamin D since returning from Spain, and after researching Alendronate l am leaning towards declining the meds in favour of increased weight bearing exercise. I do not like the sound of the possible side-effects, so if I can persuade the doctor to let me take another scan in twelve months to assess whether exercise has done the trick, I shall put off taking any meds.

Meanwhile I shall get plenty of exercise walking up all the steps in old town Dubrovnik.

Cheers!

I had intended to end this post here, but I drank up my wine and wandered around the old town. This place is magical. There are enough people around for the place to feel lively without the crowds that make it feel tacky and uncomfortable. And to improve on an already perfect evening, there is a clear full moon – absolutely stunning. I wandered the narrow streets, up and down stairs, through arches, along narrow alleys, trying to lose my bearings, but the old town is so compact that it is almost impossible to get lost. I just became more and more enchanted with the the place, especially when I unexpectedly found myself on the quayside amongst a group of locals singing along to the accompaniment of an accordion and guitar. What better way to start my first trip on a discovery of European cities.

Some may be interested to know where I am staying. Hostel Angelina, sharing a four bed dorm, and my request for a lower bunk was granted by sellotaping a reserved sign with my name on it to the mattress. Result! The camino has taught me the benefits of shared accommodation. Not only is it reasonably priced, but you also get to meet interesting people. Young, cool dudes from far flung places who are keen to communicate and share stories, and who are actually interested to know about the granny who is travelling alone.