Camino Mozárabe – day 4 – Antequera to Cuevas Bajas, 36.2 km

I forgot to mention the beautiful decoratively painted walls in the church of Santiago – quite amazing.

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A bit more about yesterday…The rooms around the albergue courtyard seemed to be used as an advice / social centre and there was lots of coming and going as we left for supper. Then George returned whilst I went to find wifi to post my blog, with the arrangement that he would obviously leave the huge iron gate to the courtyard unlocked for me. Well, there must have been someone still in one of the rooms after George returned, and when they left they locked the gate, so that when I got back to the albergue I was locked out. Now, although the rooms we were using were close to the gate, the door was pulled to and George is quite deaf. I bellowed out his name, not thinking for a second that he would hear me, if he was even awake. I have to say I was nervously weighing up my options when thank goodness he came to let me in – phew!

I had a terrible night, not necessarily because of George’s fairly persistent snoring – I just didn’t sleep for more than a couple of hours, and spent most of the night reading and writing. But luckily I don’t seem to have suffered too much from it today.

We set off at 07:50 and left Antequera on a level path and we stayed walking on the flat for a good two thirds of the day. And at least 50% of this section was on quiet country roads, the rest being on dirt tracks! all of which was trailing through olive groves. There are olive trees for as far as the eye can see in all directions.

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We actually passed through a couple of small towns today, first Cartaojal and then Villanueva de Algaidas, both of which may have had hidden charms, but if so they were very well concealed. We had a coffee in the first town and a cold drink in the second. The kind barman brought us a couple of complimentary tapas but George didn’t want his so I scoffed the lot! We had now covered around 25 km and had kept up an incredible pace of around 6 km per hour.

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Because of our short day yesterday and awkward distances tomorrow we had made the decision to walk on to the next town of Cuevas Bajas a further 11 km – making a total walk of about 36 km.

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I think both of us are suffering a bit with aches and sore feet after such a long walk. I stopped on the last stretch because I thought I might be getting a blister on the ball of my foot, so I de-booted and placed some ‘hiker’s wool’ where it was feeling tender and hey presto all was well when I arrived. Vet though it was a hard day, it puts us in a good position to set off tomorrow, and as a bonus there is a friendly bar opposite the albergue with a good wifi signal.

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The weather today returned to dull and cool – I don’t know what’s going on with this spanish weather – where is all the sunshine? Although to be honest it has been pretty perfect walking conditions, except when it rained for a while on our final stage and the lovely firm dirt track that we were walking on instantly turned to clay and clogged our boots up again. Added to that, the terrain was now steeply rising for km after km, and then equally steeply descending for the rest of the way. So it wasn’t all plain sailing!

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The signage has not been great again today. The were several places where we had no idea if we were on the right track. There is not really any need for the great frequency of arrows that we found during the first two days’ walk, but a reassuring splash of yellow every kilometre or so would have been appreciated today, and yesterday for that matter. The latter part of the track today shared the G249 route that meanders through the white villages of the Axarquia region of Málaga province and passes through our local villages of Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida.

The albergue here is really posh – shiny marble and newly decorated. Three sets of bunks, and a couple of sofas and a nice kitchen area. Another hot shower has been taken. The only let down is that there are no heaters so our clothes probably won’t get dry. Because of this I only washed the muddy zip-off section of my walking trousers today – I shall have to recycle the rest of my walking clothes for tomorrow – lucky it was cool today and not too much glowing took place (as in ladies glow, men perspire and animals sweat).

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Distance according to – wikiloc 33.9 km, mapmywalk 38.55 km, so an average of 36.2 km – twice what we walked yesterday.
Total distance walked 101.2 km

I think this evening I shall only have two or three tapas for supper, so that will restrict the cost to less than 5€, plus maybe 3€ more for a couple of vinos. This morning I had a coffee @1€, a fizzy drink @ 1.50€ and when we arrived here a tinto verano @ 1.25. With a donation to the albergue of 7€ that will make a daily total of 11.25€. To be honest, keeping track of my expenditure has made me want to restrict it. I still have nibbling supplies for tomorrow so don’t need to restock.
Four days total spend 86.20€

If George leaves the bar before me this evening I will escort him to the door and take the key back with me – I most definitely don’t want to be locked out again.

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue http://www.magwood.me
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

25 Responses to Camino Mozárabe – day 4 – Antequera to Cuevas Bajas, 36.2 km

  1. Greg Starr says:

    This is surely the best way to see the “real” Spain. The views are stunning and wild flower photos are fantastic. Thanks for this wonderful blog. Very inspiring.
    Greg

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Katherine Paterson says:

    I love your photos Maggie, especially all the beautiful flowers, were those bergamot in the first pic? Today there was a Zumbathon in Competa in aid of Cudeca and I helped out by taking the money on the door! What with walking the Camino with you and watching two hours of zumba, I´m totally exhausted and then there was the Grand National, two boat races and now it´s the Masters Golf. I need a holiday!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Four days now and I can see it’s not been easy. This Camino will have you and George toughened up in no time. A silly question for you about the beds. I noticed that they have sheets, pillows and big blankets. Do you also use your own sheet, pillow case and sleeping bag or just go with what’s there if it looks good? Also when you go out for dinner, do you leave your big pack behind without worry, if you have your main valuables with you? I’ve probably answered my own questions, but I will appreciate anything you have to add. Bought some wool knickers today :o) as you spoke so highly of them in your gear section. I’m quite the Maggie fan!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. janpow123 says:

    Am so enjoying your photos and blog, look forward to receiving it. Sleep well xx

    Liked by 1 person

  5. I was wondering where the sun had gone, too. But I imagine the walking conditions are pleasant, and you’ll eventually get more sun than you really want!

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Carel says:

    As 20 to 25 kilometers is a bit my maximum, I really am amazed that you are able to walk 36 on the fourth day. Great stamina.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. OzAnnie says:

    I envy your ‘get up and go’ ., still finding time to appreciate your surroundings, taking such beautiful pics of flowers with the dew still on them.

    Do you believe the hikers wool works ? Do you tape it so that it doesn’t move? I was a little wary last year as I thought it may end up being a lump itself and create more of a problem? Interested in whether you are a frequent user and can advise from experience .

    Annie

    Like

  8. David Wolfe says:

    WOW 36 km after yesterday’s slog uphil, down dales with so little sleep. Maybe you will. Have to get some ear plugs if the snoring continues. As I said on the phone Johns party was incredibly noisy so I was home by 11.30 have a good day tomorrow. It’s to early to start missing you but I am.
    A lot of cyclists as you didn’t make a comment about them I assume they passed without a problem

    Like

  9. I would get the key as well if George leaves first.
    Great progress so far. You must be in good shape. Photographs of the countryside are awesome. I don’t know how you manage to load them all up and write a post of the day before calling it a night. Wonderful. Wish you lots of stamina. ❤ ❤

    Liked by 1 person

  10. mary lynch says:

    Another hard day Maggie and like many of the correspondents I envy you your stamina. Ear plugs are the way to go as someone who is married to a snorer can testify. Good luck tomorrow.

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Keith Rocks says:

    Well done Maggie. A really long day for you. Hope you have/had a good rest?

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Sean says:

    HI Magwood,
    Great stuff. Best wishes.
    Sean

    Liked by 1 person

  13. zohar says:

    The rain in Spain, falls mainly on the pilgrims….
    cheers!

    Liked by 1 person

  14. Susan Quenneville says:

    I’m in Canada Maggie. What exactly is “hiker’s wool”?

    Like

  15. Frances says:

    The rain in Spain looks as though it has left you and is hitting us hard in Yorkshire (after a quite stunning week). Yes, I also would like to know what “hiker’s wool” is. Hope you are not too tired today after your long walk yesterday. Perhaps hiker’s wool might work in the ears!

    Liked by 1 person

  16. brystler says:

    I like it and want to read more. Hope you keep posting daily updates.

    Liked by 1 person

  17. AJ says:

    Are you sure this stage is 36 km?

    Like

    • magwood says:

      Possibly slightly less, but mas o menos – unless you can tell me different…

      Like

      • AJ says:

        My journal says 27.5 km as does the guide produced by the Asociacion Jacobea de Malaga

        Like

      • magwood says:

        Our instructions/notes say
        Antequera to Cartaojal – 11.4 km
        Cartaojal to Villanueva de Algaidas – 12.5 km
        Albaida’s to Cuevas Bajas – 9.9 km
        Total 33.8

        I took an average between this and my ‘mapmywalk’ app that stated 38.56 km. I guess the route may have changed since you walked.

        Like

  18. Poor George says:

    It felt like 36kms. believe me

    Like

  19. AJ says:

    The route has changed. I walked Antequera – Cartaojal (11.5 km) – Cuevas Bajas (15 km). No detour to Algaidas.

    Like

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