Today’s distance 24km
Elevation gain 201 m
Elevation loss 505 m
Total distance from Almería 134.5
It became very cold during the night and I had chosen a very lightweight blanket and didn’t sleep too well as a result. Manuel’s breakfast consisted of coffee (which apparently was very good) and doughnuts – neither of which interested me in the slightest. So I left the albergue on a rather fresh and chilly morning on an empty stomach.
The first 3.5 km were on level ground and then we took a steady descent into a valley and across a river bed that actually had some water running through it – not a lot – but enough to create a fertile environment with poplar trees and grassy slopes. A little further along there is another river to cross – a bit wider – and whilst the Americans are deciding where to hop and skip across we suddenly notice a bridge a few metres away which makes for a much easier crossing.
Then there is a climb up to the first village on this stage – Jerez del Marquesado at 6 km, where we stop for toast in a very nice bar on the way out of town.
There is a lovely soft dirt track out of Jerez with running water alongside and after a short climb we reach the tree level, and for the first time on this camino we are walking through a pine forest – only briefly – and with works of art hanging from the trees – if anyone knows the significance of these fish sculptures, I would love to know.
After the forrest we reach a large reservoir and we have been advised that we can take a shortcut across the top rather than walking all the way round as directed by the yellow arrows. Then we are on wide dirt tracks until reaching the town of Cogollos de Guadix at 12 km, where I have a second breakfast of tostada con tomate and now feel more comfortable.
We leave town on asphalt road for 1.5 km and then transfer onto agricultural tracks and find ourselves on a huge flat plateau of land where crops are swaying in the increasingly strong wind. We suffer another 5 km of river bed walking, but it is much smoother than we have experienced in previous stages and there are amazing rock formations to spike our interest. Then we are back on the road and the approach to the city of Guadix, famous for its cave houses.
We are staying in the most wonderful accommodation in the centre of the city ‘La Escultora’ an ancient property that has been beautifully restored with authentic furnishings, internal patio, beautiful lounging areas and large kitchen – 15 euros.
We five have met up with Canadian Clare who I met briefly two years ago and who started from Almeria the day before us. She will be a valued addition to our caravan of peregrinas. We cooked up a storm of quinoa, bean and veg casserole for dinner which is my first really healthy food since night one, helped down by a couple of bottles of cava. This year I have found my perfect camino partner and fellow cava lover – but I won’t tell you which one of the six she is!
I have been asked to introduce my fellow peregrinas and they are all happy to say hello, so here we are after a very pleasant lunch in Guadix…
From left to right
Nina from Denmark, Maggie from UK, Marilyn from South Africa, Gwen from New Zealand, Mary Louise and Clare both from Canada
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
Sounds all positive Maggie. That’s great. No mention of foot problems for anyone.
Buen Camino.
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So happy to follow you on your newest pilgrimage. Buen Camino!
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This walk is all about girl power! Go you inspiring gals! Mel
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Terrific post and photos Maggie and it’s so fantastic to ‘meet’ everyone.
Buen Camino peregrinas!
Cheers from Oz – Jenny
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Peregrinas! Camino companions, shared experiences and I’ll bet each one of you will have a unique and personal take-away. Lovely! There will be 5 of us on our Portuguese walk come September. Should be memorable as well. Thanks for the ongoing commentary and awesome pictures!
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Great post Maggie! Love all your photos and so great to see who you are traveling with. Love the place you are staying. What a find! So glad to hear you had a nutritious vegan meal; must be a stretch but I support you all the way!!!
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What a great stage Maggie. Your accommodation sounds fantastic. Thanks for introducing your fellow pilgrims. You look like a very interesting bunch of women with much life experience behind you. I bet the conversations over dinner are very “robust”. Wonderful photos as ever. I hope you find out the significance of the fish in the trees, I’m intrigued.
Much love and buen camino xxx
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Tomorrow through the badlands will be a very fine stage.
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Now, with this photos, I’ve already met Marilyn. Until the 19th of May.
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Incredibly beautiful accomodation. Apologies for this public display of time-wasting ignorance, but are the mountains on your left the back of the Sierra Nevada? They seem to be going on for ever. Lots of snow up there still!
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Spooky fish sculptures Maggie. You and the girls seem to be knocking those km off fairly quickly. Have a good weekend or do all the days just roll into one. Enjoying reading your adventures. Take care x
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Very enjoyable reading and you have been meeting donkeys (part of my blog name!). Best wishes if you are still on the road – to Santiago?
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