Today’s distance 25 km
Elevation gain 144 m
Elevation loss 385 m
Total distance from Almería 1,468 km
What a fabulous start to the day! The weather doesn’t look too promising but at least it is dry when we leave and almost immediately we are walking on a natural woodland track alongside a fast flowing river with lots of waterfalls, and a symphony of birdsong. It is totally enchanting
The birds sound as happy as I am to be awake this morning.
The walk is very much downhill and mostly on soft track with lots of puddles but no great amount of mud. Nina and Paul are up ahead and I am loitering, making the most of this delightful section in dry weather. I even see a few patches of blue sky amongst the grey.
We pass countless mills – some in ruins, some restored, and all with name plates. Everything is covered in a thick coat of moss.
At 5K we cross onto a road for a short while, pass under a motorway bridge and are almost immediately back onto the track alongside the river.
We cross wooden bridges, stone bridges, and stepping stones and switch from one side of the river to another
We met up at 6.5 km when we stop at Ribadumia for a drink. We were previously walking along the Rio Armenteira, but have now upgraded to the wide and fast flowing Rio Umia, strolling between the river and vineyards. At some points along the river frogs compete with the birds to see who can sing loudest.
At around 13 km there is a stretch on the road And at 16.5 km we are back on track through a eucalyptus plantation – our first climb of the day.
There are several more kilometres on the road before we reach the banks of the estuary at 21.5 km, and we take a short break sitting on the rocks, breathing in the fresh sea air. We are rewarded by a show of the sun – and it has never felt so good.
The rest of the walk is on a sand track alongside the estuary and finally across a bridge that takes us almost to the door of the albergue. Once again it doesn’t open until 14:00 and whilst we wait we find a bar around the corner. The albergue is situated in the town sports centre, a 28 bed dormitory, working kitchen, and large dining area. 6€ including disposable sheet and pillow case and blankets. There are separate bathroom facilities, each with one shower and two loos and the wash basins are communal. There is a washer/dryer for a fee if required.
We three shower and change, I do my last hand-wash for many months and we set out to wander the town and languish in the sunshine.
Tomorrow we take a boat up the Rio Ulla for 27 km, but due the limitation of the tides it will not be leaving until 10:00 so there will be no rush to get up and go in the morning. It is advised to reserve a place on the boat at a cost of 19€, which seems a bit expensive. And then I will be walking my last stage of this elongated and convoluted camino. Fingers crossed for another dry day.
Trepidatious traveller - camino blog 
No rain! And even a bit of sunshine! I can imagine your pleasure…..
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Bunnies and seashell houses! And when I think it can’t get any better! I am so happy for you to be having such a enchanting experience. I am charmed each day to read what that day brought you. Thank you for sharing. Even when you say, oh, it rained all day and so there is not much to write it is always to good to tune in to your caminho to see what happened, what was for dinner, and who you saw along the way, rain or shine! You’ve held up so well. Does this mean there is only one more day to go? Tears to my eyes. Hats off to you and your fellow travel pals. You are the best! Lots of love, Judy
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I’ve loved sharing your journey, what an inspiration you are x
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“Are we there yet” Oh Maggie you must be feeling grand. Enjoy your last few days. Your photos are so very good. You made me feel as if I had travelled alongside. (in my mind). Take care on the rest of your journey. X
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Fabulous photos today as always – I have so enjoyed following your journey and will miss the vicarious travelling when your Camino comes to its end – hope you enjoy some very well earned rest and relaxation x
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the seashells the bunnies, the sunshine, glorious Ultreia
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I’m so full of awe at your wonderful camino this year. I’ve followed every post and thoroughly enjoyed your writing and photos. What a great achievement. Almost there . . .ultreia
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Please please please….compile everything you wrote, all the pictures you took into a BOOK—it would become a #1 BEST SELLER – Outstanding photography, Excellent writing – it’s a MUST – then i’ll have it all in one place – LOL…Congratulations!! I look forward to seeing it on Amazon’s Best Seller list SOON!!! All the BEST of Luck!!!
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I agree with Margaret…. write a book or two. (Martyn) Rebecca’s husband. XO
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Have an awesome hike on your last day. It’s been a pleasure reading your posts! May you have sunshine, a slight breeze, green space, a patch of grass to sit on for lunch, and soft tracks! Buen Camino!
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this is my sort of territory! well done and hope to see you soon……
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