Camino Primitivo, Navia Emblase to Castro 12.25 km

The half stage that I walked today
The full stage that I walked in 2017

You can read my blog post from 2017 for the stage Campiello to Berducedo here

The full stage that I walked in 2017

You can read my blog post from 2017 for the stage Berducedo to Castro here

Having made elaborate plans last night to skip the next glorious stage by sharing a taxi with a Dutch Pilgrim, I watched all the early birds pack up and leave and felt very odd, a bit uncomfortable really. And to add to that feeling of wrongness the day dawned cloud free with blue sky. However the weather forecast still shows a great deal of rain and the knee is still complaining quite vigorously.

One good thing about being the last to leave is that we can eat all the food that others have left behind so I breakfasted on scrambled eggs followed by yoghurt with jam. And now we are waiting for the taxi in the hot morning sunshine. I’m torn between wanting it to rain so that I can feel vindicated in my decision and not wanting it to rain for all the people that are crossing the mountain today. But nevertheless I think it is the right decision for my knee.

There are very many pilgrims on this route at the moment. Probably 20 in our albergue, there is another albergue in the village that would probably have a similar amount, and as we waited for the taxi many more people walked by.

When we are finally picked up at 10:00 it is strange and interesting to watch as the beautiful countryside speeds past. I can look out at times and see the Hospitales track over the steep valley. It really is so green and absolutely stunning. The taxi stops at Berducedo from where our Dutch friend is walking. But Paul and I have decided to continue to the dam on the Rio Navia leaving just over 12 km to walk and effectively missing one and a half stages.

There’s a 450m climb over 9 km and then the track flattens for the last 3+ km into the tiny hamlet of Castro. The walk from the reservoir starts on road with a diversion onto woodland track. Then after passing through Grandas de Salime there are a series of tracks through fields and woodland.

There is a huge clap of thunder at 13:30 but still no rain. The thunder rumbles on all the way to journey’s end and it starts to rain when I am a few hundred metres from my destination. Shortly afterwards the sky opens and drops all its contents in a deluge. Hopefully all pilgrims will be safely down from the high pass before this happens.

The albergue/youth hostal at Castro is a charming place, albeit not at all modern. But the atmosphere is lovely. They serve a variety of food and have a bar. It was even better last time I stayed when the weather was kinder and it was possible to make use of the garden. €12, advisable to reserve. Info on

My knee wasn’t too bad today once I got going and I shall attempt a full (but short) stage tomorrow. More rain is forecast – maybe it will hold off again until I reach A Fonsagrada 🤞🤞

About magwood

Trepidatious Traveller - camino blog is about preparing for and walking the Camino de Santiago. Many future pilgrims have found the blog useful and inspiring, and many who have no plans to walk the camino have simply enjoyed the dialogue
This entry was posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo. Bookmark the permalink.

7 Responses to Camino Primitivo, Navia Emblase to Castro 12.25 km

  1. Dave says:

    Some sensible choices being made 😁. Glad you’re having fun.


  2. Happy Pilgrim says:

    If you felt uncomfortable taking a taxi (and I understand it completely), why not having walked a short and relatively easy stage from Campiello to Pola de Allande or Peñaseita? There are 4 albergues there nowadays. Seems like you skipped the best part of Primitivo with a taxi. Kind of sad 😔🐧


    • Rosie says:

      Happy Pilgrim, I think your comment is “quite sad” why would you choose to follow and comment on someone’s personal story and journey yet be so unsupportive and try and make her feel bad about a situation that was clearly already challenging? What exactly are you trying to achieve with your comment?

      Saying that she “missed the best part in a taxi” and that “it’s kind of sad” your comment is totally unnecessary and unsupportive. I ask in the future that if you have nothing nice to say then say nothing.


      • Happy Pilgrim says:

        I am so sorry for my comment! I was just worried that if Maggie skipped one stage, then she might catch up with that loud, annoying, smelly and snoring group of 8 men, which were walking just one stage ahead of her 😔.
        I won’t make another comment ever I promise.


      • magwood says:

        Dear Happy Pilgrim. Please continue to comment as and when you feel like it. The comment above was from my daughter and she felt a bit defensive. I breed strong women! 💪🏼😂


  3. memismsblogs says:

    I remember walking into the albergue at Castro with my wife and friends. All our friends had made reservation (because they were clever) and only one bed remained for my wife and I. I tried to explain that we could share a bed but the hospitalera said it was not allowed. I then switched to Spanish and asked if they could draw a map to the next town for my wife. I shouldn’t have trusted the woman because she tattled on me to my wife. Apparently women – even strangers – stick together better than married couples!


    • magwood says:

      They are very strong women who run Castro Albergue! Funnily enough, when I stayed there in 2017 we had the last spare bed in our room and quite late in the day a couple of women turned up and were allowed to bunk up together. They were very cosy!

      Liked by 1 person

I would love some feedback - tell me what you think.....

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.