Camino Mozárabe stage 7 – Guadix to La Peza 27 km

Posted on 20/04/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 27 km
Elevation gain 563 m
Elevation loss 487 m
Total distance from Almería 161.5

Guadix is a beautiful city with stunning period property, which was enhanced by the early morning sun as we left for today’s stage.

It was a very pleasant walk out of the city, and after meandering through the streets for 2.5 km, just as the edge of the city turns into countryside, we saw a sign off to the left for a Cafeteria. The tables were set with glasses and water jugs, the tostada con tomate came with the tomato in a tiny mason jar and we were each given a fruit salad tapa. Best camino cafe ever.

After our coffee stop we were immediately directed onto dirt track and were soon walking through woodland and past disused cave houses. It was fabulous, fabulous walking with the sunlight shafting through the pine trees, bird song, wildflowers, blue sky and a fresh breeze to complete the perfection. It doesn’t get much better. We explored a long deserted cave, but decided it must have been excavated for people who were extremely vertically challenged.

Our first stop was at Purullena at 9.5 km – a large and unattractive town that was holding its weekly street market as we walked through. Marilyn considered a purchase, but on balance decided the weight might be prohibitive.

The good – Nina collecting rubbish from the track
and the bad – fly-tipping in the heart of beautiful nature

From Purullena we walked a very pleasant concrete track winding between olive and almond groves to the next village of Marchal, 12.5 km, a community bursting with cave houses and spectacular views over the gorge. And then onto another road passing between incredible rock formations to the very pretty village of Los Baños at 15 km. Even this band of very laid-back peregrinas didn’t need to stop for refreshment at every opportunity, and we saved our last break for the next village, Graena at just short of 16 km where we had drinks and tapas.

I am curious about the cave houses. They are still being built. We have seen workmen building entrances to many sub-terranian dwellings. Can one just decide a certain hill looks inviting and start digging? Or is permission required, and if so from whom? And presumably some payment for the underground footprint is required? Intriguing. Answers on a postcard to….

Some time after leaving Graena we finally return to track after some 6+ km on hard surface and I really appreciate the soft ground, but then it gets a bit too soft and is back to beach walking, and then it becomes rough again and I realise we are back on the dreaded river bed.

I decide to plug in to my camino playlist and zoom ahead. The track becomes rougher and more difficult, to the extent that I climb the bank into a field of young pea plants and when I come to a fence at the end of the field, cross over to the other bank until I can see that the river bed has become easier to walk. Suddenly I arrive at a point which is a sort of T-junction and there is no indication which direction I should take. I consult the app on my phone – maps.me and am slightly alarmed to discover that I am a considerable way off track by at least 500 m. I could have backtracked, but I had no idea how far back I would need to go and anyhow backtracking is for wimps. So I called upon maps.me to find me a route to my destination. It obliged, but failed to take into account that I was on the wrong side of a humongous ridge. After climbing steadily and still not getting where I needed to be, I decided I just needed to go ‘up and over’ said ridge and find my way via scrubland and eventually a track, to the road where I should have been. I added about 3 very challenging km to the walk, but what an adventure it was – and I did it! All with the help of my technology. Maps.me and my power bank to charge up my flagging phone got me where I needed to be. Girl-power and electronics saved the day!

1 – the arrow marks how far off track I am
2 – the penultimate elevation spike shows how steeply I needed to climb
3 – the circle marks where the mistake happened

Of course my camigas realised something was amiss when they reached the switch back road and could see no sign of me ahead but we were able to communicate via whatsapp to assure them that I was not at all lost, just exploring the countryside! They waited for me at the entrance to La Peza and cheered me on as I came into sight.

There was no room at the inn when we arrived at the albergue. The charming hospitalero of the donativo accommodation checked the various rooms and found one bed available for four of us (two had decided to stay at a casa rural). But there was a empty room with two inflatable mattresses and the mattress from the spare bed was added to the end room, which left one peregrina homeless for the night. Hospitalero Luis then decided we could use his room because he didn’t need it, and my wonderful camigos decided that I should have the proper single bed in its own room all to myself because I had walked those extra three kilometres. So here I am, writing my blog late into the night without disturbing anyone.

Tomorrow we have a long stage of 30 km with no opportunities to stop for refreshment, so we must take supplies with us for the long day. I have been to the shop and purchased rolls, salad and fruit. I already have a small supply of walnuts and sultanas, and Oreos, so I shall picnic well along the way.

We visited Bar Oscar for supper. I quietly asked señora behind the bar if she could make anything for a starving vegan pilgrim. She thought for a moment and offered me a plate of vegetables. Marilyn, who is vegetarian and I happily accepted the offer and were rewarded with freshly cooked carrots, peas, artichokes, mushrooms and asparagus. Very tasty and exceptionally kind. The others had huge home made pizzas and roscas which were way too big for even a hard-walking pilgrim to manage, and tin foil was provided for take-away picnic food.

Today, we have been walking for a week. We are in a bubble of I think thirteen pilgrims. Unexpectedly large numbers for this camino. Accommodation for tomorrow’s end stage is also limited and I quickly checked out booking.com and found a townhouse to rent for the night that could take us all. The following night we have also booked hostel accommodation in Granada.

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Camino Mozárabe stage 6 – Alquife to Guadix 24 km

Posted on 19/04/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 24km
Elevation gain 201 m
Elevation loss 505 m
Total distance from Almería 134.5

It became very cold during the night and I had chosen a very lightweight blanket and didn’t sleep too well as a result. Manuel’s breakfast consisted of coffee (which apparently was very good) and doughnuts – neither of which interested me in the slightest. So I left the albergue on a rather fresh and chilly morning on an empty stomach.

The first 3.5 km were on level ground and then we took a steady descent into a valley and across a river bed that actually had some water running through it – not a lot – but enough to create a fertile environment with poplar trees and grassy slopes. A little further along there is another river to cross – a bit wider – and whilst the Americans are deciding where to hop and skip across we suddenly notice a bridge a few metres away which makes for a much easier crossing.

Then there is a climb up to the first village on this stage – Jerez del Marquesado at 6 km, where we stop for toast in a very nice bar on the way out of town.

There is a lovely soft dirt track out of Jerez with running water alongside and after a short climb we reach the tree level, and for the first time on this camino we are walking through a pine forest – only briefly – and with works of art hanging from the trees – if anyone knows the significance of these fish sculptures, I would love to know.

After the forrest we reach a large reservoir and we have been advised that we can take a shortcut across the top rather than walking all the way round as directed by the yellow arrows. Then we are on wide dirt tracks until reaching the town of Cogollos de Guadix at 12 km, where I have a second breakfast of tostada con tomate and now feel more comfortable.

We leave town on asphalt road for 1.5 km and then transfer onto agricultural tracks and find ourselves on a huge flat plateau of land where crops are swaying in the increasingly strong wind. We suffer another 5 km of river bed walking, but it is much smoother than we have experienced in previous stages and there are amazing rock formations to spike our interest. Then we are back on the road and the approach to the city of Guadix, famous for its cave houses.

We are staying in the most wonderful accommodation in the centre of the city ‘La Escultora’ an ancient property that has been beautifully restored with authentic furnishings, internal patio, beautiful lounging areas and large kitchen – 15 euros.

We five have met up with Canadian Clare who I met briefly two years ago and who started from Almeria the day before us. She will be a valued addition to our caravan of peregrinas. We cooked up a storm of quinoa, bean and veg casserole for dinner which is my first really healthy food since night one, helped down by a couple of bottles of cava. This year I have found my perfect camino partner and fellow cava lover – but I won’t tell you which one of the six she is!

I have been asked to introduce my fellow peregrinas and they are all happy to say hello, so here we are after a very pleasant lunch in Guadix…

From left to right
Nina from Denmark, Maggie from UK, Marilyn from South Africa, Gwen from New Zealand, Mary Louise and Clare both from Canada

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Camino Mozárabe stage 5 – Huéneja to Alquife 20 km

Posted on 18/04/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 20 km
Elevation gain 349 m
Elevation loss 289 m
Total distance from Almería 110.5

Well, this is what we have been waiting for. Now we are talking camino walking – and it doesn’t get finer than this. NO RIVER BED – at all. Yay! A full day of fabulous countryside tracks, through farmland with barking dogs aplenty, vast almond groves and beautiful pueblos. The almonds are still partly in bloom and are spectacular against the backdrop of the snow covered mountains. A few weeks ago it would have been even more enchanting, but probably not such fabulous weather, which has been perfect – blue sky, warm sunshine and a light breeze. There were a few ups and downs and lots of different terrain, but the only asphalt was walking in and out of the villages.

Our first stop was at Dolar at 4.3 km where I had toast and hot water. In these parts toast is served with a thick covering of some disgusting looking margarine, which I am sure has no animal products, but also I imagine not one spec of nutrient, so I make sure to ask for ‘tostada sin mantequilla’ and then use my prepared spread. Some readers have been surprised that peanut butter powder is a thing. Well here is an explanation – “Powdered peanut butter is made from roasted peanuts that have been pressed to remove most of the oil and then ground into a fine powder. Some brands contain a little sugar and salt. With most of the fat gone—powdered peanut butter has about 85 percent less fat than regular—you’re left with protein and fiber.” It’s certainly better than dry toast, and with a small ration of marmite added – it makes a tasty breakfast. I don’t suppose that will have convinced many, but each to their own!



The next stop was at Ferreira at 9.5 km. We could see from quite a distance the beautiful church tower against the snow – quite spectacular. We found the only bar at the entrance to the village and sat on the sunny terrace with a cold drink.

Then it was on to village number three, but before it came in sight we see a very impressive red stone castle high on a hill. It is some time before the pretty village of La Calahorra reveals itself nestled at the bottom of the hill. Again there is a bar at the entrance to the town and we all pile in for another drink. This stop was at 13 km.

 

Three stops in 13 km! Oh well, the stage is a fraction under 20 km and so there is absolutely no need to hurry. We are all of a mind to take it easy and fully appreciate our surroundings.

As we leave town I speak to a woman and say what a beautiful place she lives in. Yes, she replies, it is beautiful with the castle on one side and the snow topped mountains on the other, but there is not enough water and all the young people have left. So maybe not paradise after all.

My next interaction is with a goat herd. I ask if he minds if I take a photo – yes he says, but only of the goats, not of me. He then invites me over to inspect his herd and chooses one for me to see close up and wheel-barrows the creature towards me by holding onto its hind leg and propelling it in my direction. He explains that the herd is made up of three different breeds, from Granada, Seville and Murcia. There is a rather handsome billy that is wearing a rather ungainly form of contraception which would do nothing for his herd-cred. A charming diversion towards the end of our walk.

Then we can see Alquife in the distance surrounded by ruined mining buildings and machinery. Apparently this village used to produce 40% of Spain’s iron.

We had reserved beds at the private albergue Lacho and as we approached the village our host Manuel drives up to meet us. We decided that as we wanted to eat, we would call him when we had finished and he would come and show us the way. Because, as you might have guessed, this albergue was no different to any other we have stayed in on this camino – at the very, very top of the town. A couple of us went with Manuel in his car with all the packs so that we were familiar with the route and then he dropped us back to the others so we could all walk the 5+ minutes up the hill unladen.

I’m not sure of the name of the bar where we ate.  The food and service were good but the price, we all felt, was rather high.  And none of us was inclined to take the hike back into town for an evening meal.  So we pooled our resources and had a varied dinner of Dorito wraps, miso soup, nuts and cheese.  Very unhealthy but it did the trick!

There are several rooms with beds for 12 in a house with a very large lounge/kitchen and a huge bathroom which would be big enough for three, but alas we can only use the facilities one at a time. Wifi, washing and breakfast are included for 13 euros. Telephone Manuel 603 170 445. There is another private albergue in the town.

Manuel has a very sweet and affectionate tiny Yorkie type dog chained at the entrance to the property. The poor little thing is very thin, it’s coat is completely tangled and it has no water. Marilyn immediately tended to its needs with fresh water and a cheese sandwich and then with Manuel’s permission gave the poor little thing a bath. It has been the recipient of the best of South African hospitality and seems very grateful.  If anyone reading this stays here in the future, make sure the poor girl has some food and water.

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Camino Mozárabe stage 4 – Abla to Huéneja 21.5 km

Posted on 17/04/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 21.5 km
Elevation gain 432 m
Elevation loss 139 m
Total distance from Almería 90.5 km

A much nicer start to the day, with the snow topped mountains to our left and walking along comfortable country lanes and tracks. We did dip down onto the river bed again, but at this point it had been used as a vehicle track and was compacted and not at all rocky. At 8 km we reach the town of Fiñana and stop for refreshment.

We expect there to be another refreshment break at around 15 km but if it existed, we unfortunately missed it. We walked a few stretches on pleasant country roads. There are lots of orchards hereabouts, I spotted apple, pear, cherry, apricot and of course almond and countless fig trees with their fruit just forming. The citrus groves of the first couple of days have now disappeared, along with their gorgeous scent, and have been replaced by the occasional olive grove. The landscape continues to become greener with each stage, presumably there is more humidity at these heights to allow for more variety.

It has become very hot by mid day and after our failed attempt to find our second refreshment stop three of us find an inviting tree on the bank of the river bed, one of very few, and we take the opportunity to sit in its shade and eat our supplies. I have a salad that equals the size of the one I made last night and eat the lot.

It is not easy to drag an aging body from sitting at ground level and after struggling to a stand it takes a while for the muscles to warm up. By now the dreaded river bed is very rough again, my feet are complaining and I decide it would be prudent to apply some sun protection on my legs that are rapidly growing rather pink.

As I bend to apply the lotion, my umbrella swings forward and bumps me on the nose. Probably trying to tell me that there is no use dragging it across Spain if I am not going to use it for its intended purpose. It has a silver outer shell that provides SFP 50 and so up it goes for the first time, but the bungee straps that I fitted to hold it secure and hands free don’t seem to be in the correct position and I end up having to hold it and in place.

By now I have lagged far behind the other two and my feet are dragging and tripping over the stones. Aha, I thought, I know what I need! And plugged into my camino playlist of upbeat numbers with a good marching pace. In no time I had caught up with the others and zoomed past them. Guaranteed to revive flagging energy.

I arrived at the stage end at around 14:30 and then walked to the far end of town to find the albergue, situated next to the school. (Keys have to be collected from the old people’s home next to the church) The albergue is on the third floor of a small block of flats. There are two rooms, one with three beds and one with four, a minuscule bathroom with lashings of hot water, a rather scruffy kitchen with microwave and hob that doesn’t appear to work and a common room. Not at all up to the standard of accommodation experienced so far on this camino, but we are all very grateful to have a bed for the night on a donativo basis.

I have been very remiss about posting photos of albergues thus far. I have taken photos but usually not until the next day after I have posted. I shall add the appropriate photos when I have time. Meanwhile, here are images of tonight’s accommodation.

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Camino Mozárabe stage 3 – Alboloduy to Abla 30 km

Posted on 16/04/2018 by magwood


Today’s distance 30 km
Elevation gain 817 m
Elevation loss 315 m
Total distance from Almería 69

Last night in Alboloduy there were twelve pilgrims, we five, a Spanish guy who I have yet to see, a German couple, an Italian couple and an American mother and daughter. Interest in the camino Mozárabe from Almería seems to be on the rise, so you’d better walk soon if you want to experience a lesser walked camino.

We arrived at the cafe at 07:00 for breakfast and were on the road by 07:40 and were immediately directed on the the river bed, which is featuring very large so far on this camino. It isn’t great to walk on, the surface varies as shown and is rather like walking on a none too pleasant beach – quite a work out for the legs.

Large stones and rocks, coarse gravel or sand – all experienced every few metres

After around 3.5 km on the river bed we came to the point where we had to take a track rising over 200 metres in 1.5 km on a very rough ground, sometimes no wider than 50 cm with a huge and sheer drop to one side. Our efforts to climb this giant were hindered by a severe blustery wind which was strong enough to blow you off course at times, but luckily not when any of us were on the very narrow stretches.

Then of course, after a short spell on the road we took an equally steep descent into the valley and…you guessed it – back onto the river bed, where we stayed for pretty much the whole stage. We diverted into the town of Nacimiento at around 14 km for a second breakfast. Whilst the others found what they wanted at the bar, I popped to the shop and bought some bread and tomatoes and made up a roll with some reconstituted peanut butter powder and marmite. It may sound disgusting to you, but was actually very tasty.

There are a couple more opportunities for refreshment between Nacimiento and the stage end. Two of us thought we would opt for the second option and found it closed, so trudged on to Abla on the interminable river bed unrefreshed.

The mountainsides are becoming a bit greener now with pine trees growing up high. And there was a point towards the end of this stage where I suddenly saw the mountain ridges covered in snow with the sun bouncing off and making a magical sparkly backdrop to the rather less magical river bed.

The signage once again has been superb all thanks to the sterling work of the Almería amigos.

The albergue here is at the very top of the very high hill that this town is built on. It was opened three years ago and has two rooms, each with theee bunk beds. But only one bathroom for twelve people. There is a good kitchen and washing machine, but no wifi.

I bought supplies at the supermarket and after a couple of glasses of wine in the bar, returned to the albergue and prepared a huge salad and I managed to eat every last scrap, and have an identical salad boxed up to take tomorrow.

Today felt longer than it was, it really is quite draining walking on such a difficult surface, particularly with the wind that battered us all day long, and we all felt very achy when we arrived at the albergue. But the rejuvenating properties of a walk to the bar put us to rights and ready to face whatever tomorrow brings.

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Camino Mozárabe stage 2 – Santa Fe de Mondújar to Alboloduy

Posted on 15/04/2018 by magwood

Today’s distance 16 km
Elevation gain 487 m
Elevation loss 323 m
Total distance from Almería 40

We made a very leisurely exit from the albergue this morning and were immediately tackling some extreme elevation. We wound up and up on the road and then right back down again to the river bed, but only for a short stretch when we took a track between orange groves and enjoyed the most amazing scent of the orange blossom and much buzzing of busy bees.

My camera was stuck on a 2 second delay setting and it took me three attempts to press the button and race back to the group in the allotted time. Oh what fun!

Soon we are on dirt tracks, sometimes very rough under foot and at others quite comfortable but all the way on completely barren mountainsides, either rising very steeply or dropping alarmingly. Much care is needed not to slip on the loose stones.

At 8km we reach the village of Alhabia and stop for toast and orange juice. The town square is buzzing with cyclists and the bar is doing good business. On the road again we followed alongside the river bed on a narrow asphalt agricultural road all the way to the end of this very short stage and all the time with orange blossom scenting our way. The trees are absolutely laden with flowers and masses of unwanted fruit lies abandoned where it fell. Our very kind and informative hospitalero tonight, Jose, advises that the farmers receive subsidies to maintain the landscape of the area but at around 8 centimos a kilo it is not worth their while harvesting the fruit so it just rots on the ground. We did pick a couple en route and they were absolutely delicious. What a waste of good food.

We arrived very early at our destination because we have only travelled around 16 km, and rested in a bar whilst we arranged for the hospitalero to come and find us and direct us to the albergue which is situated right at the top of this pretty town. He was kind enough to load our packs into his car and drive up the very steep hill where we met him. There are 20 beds here arranged over several apartments, which are also available to tourists. Our apartment which has three bunks and a very decent working kitchen and bathroom costs 50 euros, between the five of us.

Jose stressed how important it is for pilgrims to phone a day in advance to let them know of arrival. The hospitaleros have lives that involve being away from the village and cannot just happen to be there if they do not know anyone will be turning up. And just as important is to inform them if you have reserved and then change your mind and walk on. Much effort is involved in preparing, and in winter heating, the rooms and arranging to be around to welcome pilgrims. Ring +34 633 357 533

We visit the only restaurant in town for a late lunch and although I very much enjoy the food (salmorejo without the jamon and boiled egg, and a large plate of setas) I am charged way too much for it. But everyone thought the food was good and there was plenty of it. Lesson of the day – ask how much I will have to pay before ordering!

Two of us take an after-dark climb up to the church perched high above the albergue. The views are worth the effort.

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Two days and counting…

Posted on 11/04/2018 by magwood

Two days and counting!  Backpack is almost sorted, most items on the packing list are ticked off.  Rather than show you the standard series of photos of  folded clothes that will accompany me on my camino, I thought I would provide a 3D-ish version.

Many items on my packing list remain the same as last year, but I have been busy with my sewing machine again.  Home made items from last year include walking shorts, skirt and top, visor and pack cover  This year I have made a pair of walking/relaxing trousers, and a new pair of gaiters.

So, whilst I was home alone one morning I had a dressing up session.  These clothes are totally interchangeable between walking and resting.  Last year, in quite cool weather I walked every day in either shorts or skirt, sometimes with leggings under the skirt.  The leggings were also worn in the evenings  and if very cold for sleeping.  I had a shemagh amongst my scarf collection, but it was not a useful shape, they seem to only be made square.  So I cut it in half and sewed the two ends together so that I have a wrap for warmth or shade and also a sarong (I am definitely past the point of being comfortable popping to the bathroom in my sleep wear of vest & pants)

So, I have showerproof shorts with perfectly placed pockets – just the right size for my phone, merino wool sleeveless T-shirt, merino wool leggings, homemade showerproof trousers again with perfect pockets, short sleeve merino T-shirt, rain jacket and crocs sandals for relaxing and wriggling my toes.

Here we have home made skirt (with, you’ve guessed it – perfect pockets) & top, long sleeve top, fleece and down jacket. I also have a vest top for evening/sleep wear.

This year I am trying toe socks, which many pilgrims swear by.  Rest assured, I am sparing you the photos of the under layers, but I can share that I have dumped the big woolly slow-drying knickers for ultra lightweight Exofficio briefs.

The new Asolo Thyrus boots seem to be comfy enough and have caused no problems over 100 or so km.  But I am rather disappointed with the upgraded Osprey backpack – it’s the same model as my old one, Exos 38 litre and has much improved waist and shoulder straps, but despite it supposedly being 4 litres larger than its predecessor, it seems to have less capacity, it is missing a very useful external zipped pocket and the lid pockets have smaller zip openings than previously which means that I can’t fit in the items that usually reside there.  So overall, more comfortable but less convenient.

I will be carrying a sun/rain hiking umbrella for the first time, silver coated to give SPF 50 protection.  I’ve always thought they look rather silly in the sunshine, but I hate wearing a hat to protect my scalp and ears from the sun, and it must be time that I place common sense above vanity – there’s not much use for vanity on the camino.

I’m carrying around an extra kilo of weight due my diet (plant based – no animal products) which isn’t great, but it will reduce during the walk as I consume my supplies.  I’m thinking chickpeas will feature large on this camino – I’m certainly not expecting any gourmet meals, but I’m hopeful that I can stick with my diet and keep up energy levels.  And I can always fall back on Oreos, an accidentally vegan product that is widely available in Spain.

A large group of us are meeting in Almería on Friday evening and we will be joined by a couple of members from the Mozárabe Association of Amigos who will provide credenciales for those who need them, and our first stamp.  And then we will be off.  Some are planning to walk a double stage the first day so we will spread out along the route and be more manageable for the albergue facilities along the way.

Just keep your fingers crossed for us that this awful weather which has emptied untold litres of water upon us seemingly for weeks, will finally be at an end and the only use for my new umbrella will be to protect me from the sun.

 

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Torres, Preparations, Trujillo variant | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 36 Comments

2018 Camino – Mozárabe and Torres (with one or two variations)

Posted on 09/04/2018 by magwood

Another combination camino for me this year marked in yellow on the map.  If anyone is looking for an excellent map detailing all the camino routes in Spain (unless you know of any that aren’t shown) I can highly recommend this one, great quality paper, available from Wise Pilgrim Guides.  Just to make clear, I have overlaid my route on the map, so if you order one, it won’t come to you personalised with my walk!

In only a few days’ time I will be  setting off on the Camino Mozárabe from Almería.  This route passes through Granada, Baena (the point at which it links up with the Mozárabe from Málaga that I walked in 2015), Córdoba and Mérida, where it joins the Via de la Plata.  Before reaching Mérida, in order to reduce walking the same steps I have already hiked, I am taking a diversion through Trujillo which merges with the VdlP a few stages before Salamanca.  At this point I take a south west dip onto the Camino Torres towards the Portuguese border.  The Torres coincides with the Camino Portuguese at Ponte de Lima and so as not to repeat my steps along the Camino Portuguese  (walked in 2014), I will cross to the coastal route and then take the Espiritual and the final stage into Santiago.

The length of this jaunt will be in the region of 1,500 km, my longest yet – 56 walking days.

I shall be setting off from Almería with a group of pilgrims, most of whom I have not yet met, but I will have the company of my buddy Marilyn from last year. I have an extra challenge this year relating to my diet, I might go hungry or end up consuming a lot of bread and chips – travelling through very rural Spain and Portugal without eating any animal products will certainly test my conviction!

I hope you will join me on this camino which includes two sections that are not much walked (Trujillo variant and the Torres) and hopefully I can provide some useful information for anyone who is interested in these routes.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Mozárabe from Almeria, Camino Torres, Trujillo variant | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 51 Comments

Carry on caminoing

Posted on 22/02/2018 by magwood

It must be about time I shared my plans for my next camino. What started as a vague commitment to walk in 2018 with a member of the camino forum, has snowballed into a multinational group of anything between 6 and 10. After my experience of walking with a group last year, I can say that I am looking forward to meeting some new people and getting together again with those I have met before. Walking in a group does not mean that we will all set off at the same time every morning and stay by eachother’s sides all day. Rather it means that there will be familiar company at the end of each day and if people so choose, they will walk together for part or all of each stage, or walk entirely alone, but with the security of knowing there are others hiking along a lightly travelled path. The main concern is accommodation, but we have been reliably assured that there is accommodation for 12 in all of the first 9 stages at least.

“But where is this lightly travelled path?” I hear you say. Well, it’s another one fairly close to home, but rather than travelling west to Málaga to start the Camino Mozárabe as I did in 2015, I shall be travelling east to Almería to set off on the Mozárabe once again from its furthest starting point. The route intersects with Granada and then Córdoba, by which time I will be covering already walked ground.

My first thought was to bus ahead from Córdoba to Mérida and then retrace my footsteps along the Via de la Plata, but then I discovered a new route that diverts from the Mozárabe around 175 km past Córdoba, and travels northwards through the city of Trujillo and then emerges on the VdlP at Aldeanueva del Camino, where I shall walk the remaining 100 km to Salamanca but probably stay in different albergues to which I stayed in 2015. This diversion cuts around 90 km from the standard Mozárabe route.

At Salamanca I have arranged to meet with another forum member who I first encountered in Lisbon in 2014, and we will walk the Camino Torres together which takes a westerly turn out of Salamanca and meanders through Spain and Portugal passing through some very historic sites and eventually links up with the Camino Portuguese at Ponte de Lima. At this point I will jump across to the Portuguese coastal route and then the Variante Espiritual, which will mean that on this section I will only cover one stage of already trodden ground, and that will be the final 25 kms from Padrón to Santiago de Compostela.

I have made my customary rough plan which adds up to 58 days, although only 56 of them on the move, as I will take an extra day in Salamanca to wait for my Portuguese friend and I will probably take one other day off whilst walking the Torres. My previous longest walk was on the Mozárabe from Málaga which took 52 days to walk to Finisterre. This year I won’t feel the need to walk on to the coast as I will already have walked from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic before reaching Santiago.

So there you have it folks. Start date mid-April. I’ve renewed my backpack this year (Osprey Exos 38 litre) and have purchased new boots (Asolo Thyrus) which have yet to be worn-in, but most other items still have some life in them and will remain the same as last year.

I’ve purchased the map shown above from the Wise Pilgrim website. It shows all of the caminos I have already walked and all elements of my 2018 camino. Just look at how many more routes there are for me to discover – I need to stay fit for many years to come!

The header photo shows my grandson on the beach at Weston super Mare, where I am currently babysitting for a few days.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Via de la Plata | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 33 Comments

You wait for four months, and then three come at once!

Posted on 20/01/2018 by magwood

And last, but hopefully not least, in my little flurry of posting…I uploaded a couple of camino videos to youtube some time back, but don’t think I announced it on the blog.

The first, rather long, one incorporates all stages of my 2017 camino including the Camino de Madrid, San Salvador, Primitivo and Fisterra.  It is in my usual style, trying to give a feel for the entire camino, this time using more video footage.  You will need to set aside the best part of an hour if you are going to tackle this.  If you just want to experience one of the routes, you can skip ahead as follows

Camino de Madrid starts the film

The Salvador starts at minute 21:55

The Primitivo at 32:55

And the Fisterra at 50:32

 

Then I made a much shorter video to use at a presentation I gave towards the end of last year and includes images and footage from all my caminos.  It is definitely not my usual style – short, very fast paced and rather dramatic.  Too fast for some, although I really like it.  If you watch it directly in youtube by clicking here rather than on the image below, you can fiddle with the settings and slow it down a bit by clicking on the cog wheel icon and adjusting the speed option (although I can see now that I can do that directly from within the blog post – this might not be the same for everyone).

That’s it folks.  No more until I have finished the planning for my next camino, which should be fairly soon.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 27 Comments

Where the magic happens…

Posted on 20/01/2018 by magwood

And while I’m at it, here are more of other people’s images that have taken my fancy over the last while.  The first section can all be considered camino related (at least to my way of thinking) and the others just made me smile…

This is my all time favourite

this one really hit a chord with me – where else would I meet such an amazing variety of people

I say this to myself every time I am huffing and puffing up a steep hill

it’s actually a diamond, but my scallop shell has accompanied me on every camino, whereas the diamond get’s left at home

we have a lot of these hills hereabouts

I am that friend

I’m sure we’ve all experienced this

that’s all you need to do folks, so simple

I absolutely love ‘Oh the places you’ll go’ by Dr Seuss – it relates to my experience of the camino on every page. Although I’ve just noticed this is a misquote – the actual words that start this poem are… Congratulations! Today is your day. You’re off to Great Places! You’re off and away!

watch out – there’s a pilgrim about!

no words needed

beautiful words

I know that feeling

I’m not very keen on inspirational quotes, but these hit the spot…

And just a few to make you smile…

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | Tagged , , , , | 22 Comments

That view…

Posted on 20/01/2018 by magwood

I have received a comment from a follower of the blog to remind me that I haven’t posted here for quite some time.  Four months to be exact.  I’m not sure where all that time went!

So here is a very simple and quick post that has been in the planning for a very long time, years rather than months.

The image used in the header of this post is taken from the Camino Frances, a view that accosted my senses on reaching the brow of a substantial hill on the stage between Nájera and Santo Domingo de la Calzada.  The view of the camino track winding through the fields of crops far into the distance took my breath away (or it might have been the effort of climbing the hill that caused the breathlessness!)

To my mind the image is so synonymous with my caminos that I chose it to be the permanent header for my blog posts (until I learned how to change the header with each post to create a bit of variety).

But it seems I am not alone in this opinion. I have seen this same view posted over and over again on various forums and on facebook and I have saved most of them to my photo library.  It is instantly recognisable to me, whatever the season, whatever the colours that nature is displaying.  I hope you enjoy the following photos as much as I have for the last several years.

With thanks to those who have posted these photos and I hope you are happy with them being grouped here for all to enjoy.

I wrote the foregoing in 2018 and continued to collect images of this view over the years. Now, at the end of 2025, I am adding the very many additional photos and paintings of this scene I have come across, mostly on facebook. I have not gone looking for them but spotted them regularly. There are 46 in addition to my own photo. I’ll number them incase anyone reading this wants to claim an image as their own.  Post a comment and I will give you credit.

Google maps location – https://maps.app.goo.gl/8FfE7yiBSz69NTM78

my photo taken in April 2013 on my first camino, showing my daughter far in the distance.

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47, from Rick, of Rick & Peg via caminodesantiago.me forum, taken May/June 2015

48 taken by NJohn, September 2022

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Frances | Tagged , , , , , , , | 32 Comments

Baby steps to a grown-up lifestyle change…

Posted on 21/09/2017 by magwood

Back in February I posted about my plans (new year’s resolutions) to buy no clothes during the year and try out a plant-based eating regime.  I joined a few facebook groups relating to a zero waste lifestyle and a vegan diet, and became more and more interested in both. I have learned a great deal over the intervening months.

I failed the first test (not significantly, but I lost a lot of weight and needed a few new items of clothing), and I dipped in, out, and back into a plant based diet.

I am definitely on a ‘journey’ to zero waste, although I doubt I will ever reach my destination.  I have always been an ardent recycler and composter, but there was always food that wasn’t suitable for composting because it would be attractive to vermin, so inevitably some food waste ended up in our kitchen bin, and living in a hot climate that means the bin must be frequently emptied in order to avoid smells and attracting flies.  Food contained in a bin liner (even a biodegradable one) and emptied into landfill will  not rot.  The more I learned, the less I liked sending my waste to landfill.

But now I have discovered a new trick that enables home composting of all organic waste, including meat and fish, small/medium bones, dairy, bread, cooked food, etc.  It is called ‘Bokashi’ a Japanese word that means “fermented organic matter”.  It requires a system of using two Bokashi bins (one being filled during the period of a couple of weeks, whilst the already full one is fermenting).  I have been using this system for several months now and my compost heap is growing and looking very rich.  I won’t go into great detail here because if you are interested you can find plenty of information on the internet.  There is a setup cost involved and little more effort than just chucking waste in the bin but my plants will benefit from the rich compost that is developing at the end of the garden, and I am sending absolutely no food to landfill.

I am also trying very hard to buy as few plastic packaged items as possible.  I have made my own produce bags from an old net curtain so no longer need to use plastic when I am buying  fruit and veg and I always have a roll-up tote bag (or three) in my handbag when I go shopping.  I have had a few odd looks and deep sighs from cashiers at the supermarket – the first time I used the produce bags all the price labels fell off before I reached the check-out, but once I realised my fail, I applied a small patch to each bag that the labels will adhere to, and voilá no more problems.  On my most recent visit to the supermarket the cashier examined the bags closely and then complimented me on using them – I was ridiculously pleased that she acknowledged what I was doing.

I am washing and reusing ziplock bags, no longer using clingfilm and rarely using aluminium foil.  I have small bins for our recycling and no longer use liners to take them to the recycling points.  Our kitchen (landfill) bin is now a recycled tea caddy that only needs emptying every few days.

I have started to make my own cleaning products, am using wooden/bristle brushes and a loofah for washing up (all natural compostable items), have virtually given up kitchen paper (probably my hardest sacrifice), use solid (bar) shampoo with no packaging, a crystal deodorant that will last for years, and will soon experiment with making my own toothpaste and body lotion – all so that I am not buying unnecessary plastic that will end in our ever-growing landfill sites.

Is it easy?  Well it’s not difficult, it just requires planning, discipline and a bit of time.

Can I do better?  Without a shadow of a doubt.

Do my friends think I’m a bit batty?  Certainly.

Is it worth it?  Absolutely.

Why am I doing it?  Not for myself – I’ll be ready for my grave before all our inconsiderate misuse of the planet over the last umpteen years affects me personally.  But I have a great concern for my children and grandchildren (and of course everyone else’s children and grandchildren).  We must all start to take serious responsibility for our actions and try to reverse some of the terrible mistakes we have made.

I feel passionate about all this and could write a good deal more, but I’m sure you get the gist, and I would like to sincerely thank you for humouring me and reading this far.

As for my diet, since returning from my camino at the end of May I have stuck fairly rigidly to a plant only diet – no meat, fish, eggs or dairy.  There have been only a couple of unplanned occasions when I have eaten dairy.  I cannot call myself vegan because I still wear leather products (but don’t think I will buy any new items).  A true vegan wouldn’t wear wool or silk either.

But I am comfortable that I will stick with this eating regime, not because I suddenly decided I didn’t like the taste of animal products, but for ethical reasons, relating both to animal cruelty, and the damage that animal agriculture wreaks on the environment, and of course for health reasons.

I probably wont write about this again because it is not what this blog is about, but it is what I am about, so I thought you might be interested.  I won’t be preaching or flag waving.  Just quietly getting on with my chosen lifestyle.

If not me, who?  If not now, when?

(As many have before me, I misquote the words of Hillel the Elder “If I am not for myself who is for me? And being for my own self, what am ‘I’? And if not now, when?”)

Oh, and I hope you like the header photo – a sunset snap I took last week

Posted in A view of life | Tagged , , , , | 38 Comments

Reflections on the Caminos Primitivo and Fisterra

Posted on 24/08/2017 by magwood

Here is part two of my 2017 camino round-up.  I won’t give too much detail as these are much more travelled routes and there is a lot of easily available information around.  You can check out part one which covers the Caminos de Madrid and San Salvador here and my video below.

Setting out from Oviedo Marilyn and I bumped into Dave who we had met earlier on the Camino de Madrid.  We were soon out of the city and onto quiet country roads accompanied by low cloud.  There was some woodland and farm track, but a fair amount of hard surface walking on this first stage.  Marilyn and I walked our own walk on this stage and by the time I reached Grado I didn’t  know if she was ahead or behind me. As the posh new albergue in Grado was not open when I passed through I continued to San Juan de Villapañada, 5 km further and 1 km off the camino, where I found a little gem of an albergue, although I didn’t find Marilyn – she had stopped at Grado, where the sixteen paces soon filled.  The albergue at San Juan has twenty places and most of them were taken.  I met some lovely pilgrims at here, some of whom I would cross paths with  from time to time all the way to Muxía.  Stage length 31.7 km

Stage two, 27.7 km, involved lots of woodland tracks and walking through the dawn chorus – what a treat.  And the prize at the end of the day was to stay with hospitalero David at his donativo albergue in Bodenaya.  There are sixteen places, and the first eight or ten can be reserved.  A true camino bonding experience will be found here, with a huge welcome, good facilities and communal dinner.  David gives a talk about the coming days’ walk and there was a long group discussion to decide the time we would communally rise the next morning – a compromise of 06:15 (which I suspect might be the same every day with a bit of manipulation from David!).  I concluded that David liked the sound of his own voice, but so did I so it was no hardship to listen to him.

Stage three, 25.9 km, was another fabulous day of walking through woodland (a bit muddy in places) with beautiful views to the mountains that we would be crossing tomorrow.  I stopped at the village of Campiello and stayed at the excellent Albergue Ricardo, top notch facilities, fully equipped kitchen, modern bathrooms, good sturdy beds, comfortable communal areas indoors and out, with private rooms in addition to the dorms, and all very well run by caring people who operate the bar and shop across the road.  There is also another well reviewed albergue in the village.

So far on the Camino Primitivo there were a lot more pilgrims than I anticipated, but for the most part I managed to walk alone and enjoy the company of others at the end of the day.

Stage four, 27.4 km, was the ‘biggie’.  Up and over the Hospitales route, although there is an option to take a route through the valley with facilities half way where you can stop for the night.  Marilyn and I opted to go up and over, and there certainly was a lot of ‘up’, (841m up and 530m down) and when we thought we had reached the top, there was still more ‘up’.  There are no facilities for 20 km on this mountain pass so it is necessary to take food and water for the day, with the added weight making a hard day a little harder.  But it was worth every effort, once again the mountain scenery was absolutely stunning in every direction.  We stopped for the night at Berducedo and stayed at the private albergue ‘Camino Primitivo’ which was very pleasant.  There is a municipal albergue here but it didn’t look very appealing.

Stage five, 27 km, was another day of severe ups and downs. First a short (2+ km) and very sharp up, and then through a recently burnt out pine forrest with a drop of 580m in the first 4km, then another 240m in next 4km all the way down to the dam on the Rio Navia, and then a steady prolonged climb back up the other side of the valley, mostly on asphalt.  But there was another prize at the end of this knee-shattering stage in the shape of the very lovely albergue at Castro.  Beds not great, but the ambience, the communal spaces and particularly the food were an absolute treat.  I can’t imagine anyone wanting to eat their own food here, but there is a microwave if wanted and laundry facilities.

The start of stage six, 21 km, was another prolonged climb rising 450 metres to the summit where Asturias meets Galicia.  A very pleasant day’s walking through woodland and rugged moorland, very little on the road.  I stayed the night at Albergue Cantábrico in A Fonsagrada, another superb facility with sturdy beds and cotton sheets & duvet, well equipped kitchen, laundry facilities – really good value at 10€, with private rooms if required.

Stage seven, 35 km, involved a bit of road walking and a lot of woodland and countryside tracks.  Another day of considerable elevation – accumulated uphill 611m, downhill 980m.  I opted to walk a long stage of 35 km into Castroverde where there is a very nice new and modern municipal albergue.  In my planning I had guessed that I would be late arriving after 35km and that maybe the albergue would be full, so I took the precaution of booking into a pension.  I was a bit peeved to discover that in fact there were loads of beds available at the muni but I had already committed to Pension Cortés – a bit expensive at 38€ for a twin room, but Marilyn and I thought we were worth it and the private bathroom was a real treat.

My strategy for such a long stage into Castroverde was that I could take a short day into Lugo, a beautiful city where I wanted to spend some relaxing time wandering around and soaking up the atmosphere.  So a mere 22km, again mostly in woodland and farmland with some stretches on asphalt. I was first to arrive at the municipal albergue at 11:30 – and it didn’t open until 13:00.  There was a long line of backpacks by the door when the hospitalera arrived, but I was the first to register and I just dumped my stuff and set off to wander the walled city.  So charming and such lovely weather to enjoy it.

At this point I diverged from my plan.  I wanted to delay my entry onto the Camino Frances as long as possible, because however busy the Primitivo was, the Frances would be much busier.  There is a little used cross-over from the Primitivo to the Camino del Norte involving two stages that I was keen to try.  Dave was up for it so we followed the green arrows out of Lugo on the Camino Verde, leaving Marilyn to continue on the Primitivo.  The arrows were a bit sporadic and I was pleased to have a track marked on my phone app maps.me.  There is some really useful information on this camino forum thread.

The first stage took us on a delightful river walk and then through tiny stone hamlets and between pasture and woodland.  There is only one option of accommodation before hitting the Norte and this is at 28 km in Friol at Pension Benigno, a bit dated but good value at 15€.  There was approximately 400m accumulated elevation, both up and down.

The second stage of 27 km involved a lot of very muddy(!) tracks which was rather tiresome, and after squelching through deep manure for a lot farther than I would have liked, I eventually took the opportunity to divert onto a road where the going was a great deal easier.  At around 18 km at the village of Mesón, the Camino Verde intersects with the Norte and I was once again walking amongst other pilgrims, albeit very few and far between.  This last section was almost entirely on asphalt as far as I recall.  Accumulated elevation 277 up and 244 down.   And another prize was waiting in Sobrado dos Monxes in the form of an albergue situated in a Cistercian monastery originally founded in 952 and rebuilt in 1708.  Again we had the freedom to wander around the buildings, mostly disused and in some disrepair but nevertheless a real treat.

I took another diversion on the next stage of my camino so as to delay my entry onto the CF a little longer.  It was a walk of over 39km, almost entirely on asphalt.  It wasn’t great and I wouldn’t recommend it.  Mostly on quiet country roads but I got sidetracked following mojones that were marking a different route into Santiago.  After walking beside the major N634 road for six kms on the hottest day of this camino with no shade whatsoever, I consulted my maps.me app again and found a turn-off into my intended destination of O Pedrouzo. I called into the first accommodation I found, the private albergue ‘Otero’ which was excellent, good beds and facilities 10€.  I later discovered Dave had walked a slightly different route which landed him on the CF at Santa Irene and included a few kms through woodland, which sounds a better option than mine. But the distance to O Pedrouzo would have been the same.

The next stage took me into Santiago and after setting off in the dark, which was not really advisable when immediately walking through woodland, I soon came across Marilyn.  We had plenty to catch up on and walked together for a while.  I began to recognise  sights from my first camino four years ago (each of my caminos since have entered Santiago via a different route).  The distance from O Pedrouzo was only 20 km and I arrived at my accommodation by 10:30.  I dumped my pack and went to do the usual stuff on arrival, including visiting the cathedral for the noon pilgrims’ mass.  There was a botafumeiro swing, but sadly I missed it because as soon as the mass was over I left.  I was quite uncomfortable this year with the attitude of many around me, some would describe it as a bit of a circus.  A group of us from the Primitivo met up in the evening for supper, including of course my great friend Marilyn.  One more night sharing a room together and a fond farewell the next morning, when she travelled to Madrid for her flight back to South Africa and I continued walking to the coast.

I’ve walked to Finisterre and Muxía twice previously and really like this way of ending my camino.  On the past occasions I have walked one short day and two long-ish ones, due to the availability of accommodation.  But when planning this year’s walk I discovered there were new options and I split the 90km hike into fairly equal portions, stopping first at the new albergue at Piaxe (A Pena), then at O’Logoso before reaching Finisterre and walking the next day to Muxía.  I shan’t prolong this post any further by giving details as they can all be found on my planning spreadsheet and on the gronze.com website.  Except to say that I was absolutely delighted to bump into Eli in Finisterre and together with Dave we walked up to the lighthouse to celebrate the sunset.  It was a very special and fitting moment.

This has gone on much longer than I intended again.  If you have read this far, well done for your perseverance, and I hope it was useful.  Of course more detail is given in my daily reports that I posted live from the camino.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Fisterra, Camino Primitivo | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 10 Comments

It was a ¡buen camino!

Posted on 30/05/2017 by magwood

I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who has read and commented on my blog over the last 36 days. The comments really do give me a great boost every day. Please stick around for a few round-up posts.

I was up and out this morning and able to catch a belated sunrise over the ocean on my way towards the church at the tip of the Muxía peninsular, the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Barca, built at the end of the earth, on the very rocks that jut out of the seething, swirling ocean. I was lucky to catch the sun because soon after I returned it rained quite hard for a while. I also had the place almost to myself as the very early birds had either walked on to Finisterre or caught the 06:45 bus back to Santiago. Many more, who like me had completed their walk, were taking the later bus and were making the most of a lie-in. But once I am awake I like to be up, particularly when the room smells as though 20+ people and their aromatic boots have been sleeping in it.

But today I am neither walking, nor catching the bus. I am about to be collected by an, as yet, unmet friend who lives close by, and I shall be staying the night at her retreat.

During supper last evening we were discussing what we most wanted to do when we arrived home. My first activity is always to check what has been happening in my garden during my absence. I know for sure there will be a mountain of weeds to contend with. Then I will have a long, hot shower with my favourite products, and afterwards straighten my hair of frizz for the first time in five weeks and pluck my eyebrows (I broke my magnifying mirror about three weeks ago and now have something akin to a forest growing above my eyes). Other treats include using an electric toothbrush, sitting in ‘my’ chair that I know David will have been keeping warm in my absence, drinking hot water from ‘my’ cup that I know David wouldn’t dare to use in my absence, watch the news, get dressed in something tidy, eat a balanced diet.

I shall continue to eat what I want for a few days (although that will almost exclusively be healthy, except of course the chocolate and churros I will indulge in when I am back in Santiago) and then with the new week I shall try and get back into eating a whole food, plant based diet. During the first three months of this year I shed around 10 kilos (more than the weight of my backpack). I’m not sure if I’ve lost any more weight during the course of my camino, but my shorts are definitely feeling a bit roomy. I was hoping that I might stick with a vegetarian, or better still vegan, diet whilst walking, but I’m afraid I wasn’t sufficiently determined and fell by the wayside almost immediately. It isn’t easy to be so dedicated to the cause when away from home, particularly in rural Spain. But the intention remains for a healthy, sustainable diet when I am back in my own kitchen.

I’ve been lucky to experience a fairly pain-free camino this year. My right knee has given me more trouble than normal, but less than the first year I walked. Blisters – I’ve had a few, but then again, too few to mention. I’m hopeful that all my toenails will stay put despite some ridiculously steep downhill tracks. I’ve taken no more painkillers than I can count on one hand. I’ve supped a few glasses of wine and never suffered a hangover. So all in all my body has done me proud and I have remained pretty strong. It never fails to amaze me – what incredible machines our bodies are – that we can ask so much of them on a daily basis and most of the time they just obey the command.

Other than the seven years of bad luck I earned by breaking my mirror, I managed to keep hold of all my possessions until the last few days when I left behind my soap and lost my tripod. My clothes and equipment all worked really well – I wore my shorts for walking almost all of the time except for a few days when it was literally freezing cold and I wore both leggings and skirt, and both these items were employed alone or together every evening. The only item I didn’t really make use of was a pair of light cotton trousers that only got worn once when everything else was in the wash.

I was exceptionally lucky with the weather. Time and again the forecasts threatened us with storms that didn’t materialise. There was a fair amount of mist and low cloud, but that probably kept the cold at bay. There were a few scorching days as I reached Santiago, but an extra early start meant that I reached my destination before it became unbearable.

I’ve walked with friends of old and met with many new and interesting peregrinos. Starting my walk with a ready-made camino family was a bit of a gamble – how would this disparate group get on with each other? The simple answer was…very well. We were a happy family, but when the time came to go our separate ways there was a tinge of sadness, but always new paths to forge and new friends to meet. With the exception of two stages, Marilyn and I stayed together until we reached Santiago, and shared a whole range of experiences and emotions. And the icing on my camino cake was bumping into Eli at Finisterre.

After completing my last stage to Muxía I spent a day and night chilling out at ‘The Little Fox House’ camino retreat, situated nearby in the heart of the countryside in the tiny hamlet of Carantoña. It was nice to meet with Tracy who runs this facility, we have been facebook friends for some time. The Little Fox House is Tracy’s home, an old stone building where pilgrims can visit post-camino to take a breather before returning to ‘normal’ life. I’ve never had a problem returning home, but for some, particularly those from far away, it can be a shock to the system after so many days on the camino, and Tracy offers friendship, support and excellent food in a well equipped and cosy environment. Please take a look at her website and spread the word.

And now I’m back in Santiago, having posted my walking poles home (thanks to the infinite patience of the lady at the Correos who re-engineered the pre-formed carton to fit my pacerpole handles), and visited the Pilgrims’ office in vain (unfortunately I have none of the patience that the Correos worker displayed and had no inclination to wait a couple of hours to register my completion and claim my compostela). So, whilst awaiting the airport bus I am sitting in Casa Pepe, in Praza de Santo Agostiño, just above the food market, where I remembered from years past that they provide exceptionally good tapas with every drink. One more glass of wine (it has just turned mid-day!) and I shall be off to the bus stop. Cheers everyone. And once again, many, many thanks for your company along this camino.

Posted in Camino de Madrid, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino del Salvador, Camino Primitivo | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 38 Comments