Trepidatious traveller – camino blog

Twenty pilgrims, two toilets – not a good ratio! I rose early for a brief visit before too many people were moving around and then waited until most had done their business before I attended to mine. Timing is everything!

We four made a leisurely start, stopping off at the bar for breakfast before setting off, by which time almost every pilgrim in town was on the road. We are all finding it a bit of a strain to have so many people around us when previously the highest number in any albergue on the Camino de Madrid had been six.

Still flat and straight, but the tracks are narrow, running alongside the road. There are a couple of adobe ruins in a freshly ploughed field and they are hardly distinguishable due to the precise match of colour – the colour of mud!

We can see the outline of the Picos de Europa ahead, giving us a reminder that tomorrow we will set off on a new path, the Camino San Salvador, which will take us across the Picos towards the city of Oviedo.

Oviedo was an important destination for pilgrims of old. The cathedral was called Sancta Ovetensis owing to the quantity and quality of relics contained in the Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber), the chief feature of the cathedral containing the most precious relics of the Holy City. It was taken from Jerusalem to Africa, and after residing in several locations was finally placed at Oviedo by Alfonso II in the 16th century.

Until late this afternoon I hadn’t recognised any of the Camino Frances which I walked with my daughter Ella in 2012. But a section towards the end of this stage looked familiar, and tonight we are staying in the same albergue that I stayed with Ella.

Not many words today – not a very inspiring walk.

But we are staying at a lovely albergue, the San Pelayo. I booked ahead, single beds again in a room of eight. There are also two dorms of bunks, each with 16 places. It is actually very quiet here, no more than a dozen pilgrims. There are three showers, three loos and four washbasins. Lots of relaxing areas, a reasonable kitchen/diner, a restaurant for breakfast and dinner, a generous lounging area and a fab garden which we could take advantage of this afternoon. Our single beds are 10 euros – well worth it in my opinion.

Someone asked what sort of snacks I carry – here is a good one, corn (rice-type) cakes with a slice of goats’ cheese and apricot, of course accompanied by a glass of cold white wine.

Today’s distance 25.8 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 7 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 78 m
Total distance 390.4 km
Average per day 26 km

I stayed up late as the music commenced to bounce around the walls. It was an ideal opportunity to catch up on responding to comments. I don’t often get time to do this, as by the time I have posted my blog and eaten some supper it is usually time for lights out and I don’t like to disturb others with the light from my screen. Can I just say how much I appreciate all the comments I am receiving – they really do brighten my days. Thank you and please keep them coming, even if I’m not able to respond.

I took myself to bed around midnight and plugged into three episodes of The Archers – one episode is normally guaranteed to send me off, but not on this occasion. The music, just a couple of metres outside our bedroom window, varied between thumping techno disco, and thumping live band. The windows were vibrating, the bed legs were vibrating, my very soul was vibrating. I guess I did drift off from time to time. At one such moment (with the aid of ear plugs) I was startled awake by one of my camigos shouting out in their sleep for help with an imaginary creature that had jumped up and was biting them. I was still awake when the music stopped at precisely 06:27. It was cold outside and I doubt that many hard-line party-goers were still enjoying the entertainment, but nevertheless it persisted until the allotted time. It must be soul destroying for these guys to perform, usually with scantily clad young women singing away, for a mere handful of (probably) drunken youths. This same performance will be given by different bands for two further nights. The town has a population of 300 people. I have never been able to work out how this expenditure by a tiny village can be justified, but you’ve got to love Spain for their determination to throw a party.

See this photo of the enormous speakers of the disco stage with our bedroom window peeping out to the side.

But back to business…the day started quite chilly but sunny, with the promise that we would soon be stripping off our outer layers. However that didn’t happen. The sun didn’t quite make it out from behind the clouds for many minutes a a time and a cold breeze picked up.

We are still on the meseta with long, straight, flat tracks through crop fields. We walked for just under 7 km when we reached Sahagún where the Camino de Madrid meets the Camino Frances and immediately there were pilgrims in all directions, many walking with only small day packs, having sent their main pack ahead by taxi. We were still walking along a flat track between fields of crops, but now alongside a road, albeit not a busy one. We didn’t encounter a bar until Bercianos del Real Camino at 16 kmwhere we stopped for a hot drink.

The wind really picked up and it was quite cold until we reached El Burgo Ranero where we are staying at Albergue La Laguna. I reserved beds for us and was delighted to find that we had been allocated a room at the end of the dorm with four single beds. Very comfortable mattresses, and sheets and pillowcases provided. 12 euros. The dorm has 16 places in bunks and there are three showers and two loos between us all. There is a large kitchen/dining area but not really any facilities for cooking. The hospitalero offers a machine wash for 4 euros and we pooled our clothes for a communal spin. The wind soon dried them all in the very lovely garden. What a pity it wasn’t warm enough for us to grab a sun bed and take a siesta!

We ate a menu in the restaurant Piedra Blanca which was very good for 10 euros.

Now to catch up on some much needed sleep!

Today’s distance 23.7 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 111 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 39 m
Total distance 364.6 km
Average per day 26 km

Love this photo of the four of us waving from the ancient bridge at Puente Duero last evening…

This morning we were invited to breakfast with Arturo for 2 euros. I declined as I don’t drink tea or coffee and don’t really want anything to eat that early. We peregrinas posed for a photo with the hospitalero before setting off – note Eli looking particularly proud of the new staff that Arturo gifted her.

We walked through our last section of pine forest early this morning – alongside the road until reaching the very pretty town of Simancas where we stopped for a hot drink.

All along the following stretch of the camino are metal sculptures denoting (mostly) pilgrims making their way towards Santiago de Compostela. We couldn’t resist posing in front of the first such sculpture, but thought it best not to try and replicate the second (second compilation, top right)!!

Leaving the pine trees behind us, we were now on the high plains of the meseta. A boring slog to some, but a joy to me – seeing such vast stretches of bright green crops with barely a tree to interrupt the vista. I do prefer an undulating track as the ankles get very stiff when constantly in one position, but the views topped by a brilliant blue sky and fluffy white clouds was more than enough to make me a happy hiker.

There was another tiny village a few kms further and then we reached Wamba at around 20 km. It is incredible that all these small villages have at least one huge, ancient church at their centre. Wamba conforms to this pattern, boasting the church of Santa Maria de la Osario. A Camino Forum friend who had passed by this village on several occasions without being able to gain access to the church, asked that if the church was open I could take some photos for her. I came prepared, having asked Arturo the previous evening about opening hours, he had written down a couple of telephone numbers for me. As expected, the church was closed when I arrived, so I duly made a phone call and was instructed to visit the Farmácia opposite where they would tell me where the town hall was. In the event the lovely ladies in the farmácia took charge of the situation and summoned the señora who is responsible for opening up. She arrived within fifteen minutes and Marilyn, Eli and I entered the stone built church for a tour.

It was very impressive, with a font dating from the sixth century, a column from the tenth century, and most other parts ranging from the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries, including some beautiful wall paintings and stone carvings. We were then led to an internal courtyard and the señora hefted open a sturdy door and ushered us in to a small room, whereupon we were shocked into silence. We were told by the guide that the room is lined on three sides with the skulls and bones of 2,000 villagers from a period ranging from the thirteenth to eighteenth centuries. However Wikipedia tells me the number is more than 3,000 and the remains of monks. Eli read that the remains were the result of wars, plagues and pestilence. But however many, and whoever they were, it was a rather shocking experience to be suddenly exposed to so much death.

After the church tour we found a particularly nice bar for lunch. After much discussion Eli and I ordered bean and meat soup. We were slightly puzzled when a large tureen of noodle soup arrived, but as it was quite tasty, we just got on with the job in hand and ate the lot. Then we were unexpectedly served with a bowl of chickpeas and cous-cous croquettes, and then there appeared a huge plate of mixed meat – beef, pork, chorizo and morcilla. We were actually quite full after the noodle soup, so we invited Paul in to help demolish some of the leftovers and we packed up the meat for supper.

All that food, and still around 7 km to walk. My stomach was not happy and kept sending signals to remind me!

We arrived at Peñaflor de la Hornijo at around 16:00. It has a nice albergue which my notes tell me has 12 beds, but there are only eight in evidence, split between two rooms. There is a good kitchen, a large open-plan bathroom, and a scruffy garden that catches the afternoon sun. A charge of 3 euros is made for this little gem. What excellent value!

Today’s distance 28.8 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 234 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 79 m
Total distance 255.1 km
Average per day 25.5 km

I pulled myself out of my slump last evening and did indeed find a couple of gems in Alcazarén. There is a huge brick built church that is quite beautiful inside. We returned to El Bar Real for some supper which was good enough.

The church at Alcazarén

This morning dawned bright, if rather chilly. I pulled on my gloves only to discover that I had put them in my waist pack still wet from yesterday’s rain, so they didn’t keep my hands very warm. But at least there was no miserable grey cloud to hide the sun and better still, no icy wind to push us around.

We started out walking on more sand tracks through pine forest – once again quite lovely. The sun rose from behind the trees throwing lovely shafts of light through the shadows.

After around 6 km I found myself a mojon to sit on and enjoyed some breakfast (including the last of the boiled eggs) and then wandered on through the slowly warming morning, well behind the others.

We were welcomed to the first village on this route at around 16 km, by which time our group had reformed and we enjoyed a hot drink before setting off for the final 9km, most of which was along, or alongside, a road. Being Mayday holiday there was not much traffic, but what there was sped by at great speed.

We arrived into Puente Duero at around 13:30 and were given a warm welcome by our charming host and hospitalero Arturo. This donativo albergue is situated in a spacious garden with small vegetable plot, lots of fruit trees and roses climbing up the fence. We cobbled together a decent lunch, and then Arturo presented us with a delicious freshly made tortilla español and a bottle of wine. What a star!

After showering and hand washing our clothes we all stretched out on the various benches dotted about the garden and there may well have been some snoozing going on. The albergue has beds for eight in two rooms and a decent bathroom. There is a BBQ if required. No wifi. Two more pilgrims arrived during the afternoon – two older guys, one Spanish, the other French.

We ate so well at lunchtime that none of us feels the need for supper. Nevertheless we made a trip out to look for a bar with wifi, but neither of the two we tried were able to oblige. Luckily I have a SIM card in my iPad so I will be able to post this later.

Today’s distance 25 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 20 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 72 m
Total distance 226.3 km
Average per day 25.1 km

Last evening I bought a bottle of cava and a big bag of crisps for sharing, then spotted a box of eggs and thought it would be a good idea to have boiled eggs for tomorrow’s walk. But when I returned to the albergue I realised there was no hob, just a microwave. Not daunted by such trivialities I looked up online how to boil eggs in the microwave. Voila, easy-peasy, perfect boiled eggs – three each for lunch…who knew how simple that would be – no mess, no explosions – sorted!

Meanwhile we four were sitting around the table when Charo, señora hospitalera, called in to see us. She warned of a storm approaching tomorrow and kindly told us we could stay an extra night if we wished. We checked the forecast to see that winds of 30-50 km/h with gusts of 65 km/h were on the way. But being hardy pilgrims, we didn’t change our plans.

True enough, the moment we stepped into open countryside we were knocked sideways by the gusting wind. We soon entered the pine forest on sandy, but quite firm, paths and were instantly sheltered somewhat from the wind. This lasted five or so kms and then we were out in exposed countryside again, walking alongside huge electricity pylons. I was puzzled by what sounded like a high speed train zooming by, or the rush of the engines of an aeroplane about to take off, but actually turned out to be the sound of the wind rushing through the pylon wires.

At 7 km we reached the village of Villeguillo and were surprised and delighted to find the bar open earlier than expected so we could all thaw out with a hot drink. As we left the rain started, although it never amounted to much. But the wind continued to gust and push me sideways on the wide open gravel track which continued for around 4 km, and then once again we were welcomed into the relative shelter of another pine forest for a much more pleasant 5 km.

At the 16 km point we were advised by our guide to divert from the ‘official’ camino path because it runs through more forest with deep sandy paths that are hard to walk on. It advises to take a diversion on an open track between vast crop fields.

Paul, Marilyn and I followed the advice and walked along the open track. Bad move! I’m not sure if due to rain or spillage from the massive irrigitation arms that cross the fields, but the track was wet, with very slippery muddy clay that clung to our boots and slowed us down tremendously. Eli, on the other hand, thought for herself, and assessed that in the current weather conditions it would be better to take the official route through the forest and therefore be sheltered from the wind. She reported that although sandy, the path was perfectly firm and very comfortable to walk on. On looking at the map and comparing the routes, the official one is considerably shorter, I’m guessing by 2 or more km. Eli wins again!

I was ready for the cold this morning and wore socks over my gloves, buff around my head and rain jacket hood up. During the latter part of this stage I plugged into my camino playlist and powered on as fast as I could. The irony of singing along to ELO’s ‘Mr Blue Sky’ and Katrina and the Waves’ ‘Walking on Sunshine’ whilst stomping through gale force winds under a dark grey sky was not lost on me, but the music did its job and increased my average pace for the stage to 4.5 km/h.

On arrival at Alcazarén we visited the Bar Real to register and collect the albergue key. It was just after 13:00 and the bar was packed to the gunnells with locals enjoying a Sunday lunchtime drink and partaking of the wide range of tasty looking tapas. The place was absolutely buzzing with not a spare seat in the house.

The albergue is purpose built and situated on a rather unprepossessing (barren waste ground) site at the edge of town. The 4 bunks (8 places) are sturdy with good mattresses, there are lockers and blankets. But the single bathroom is in the style of a wet room (whoever thought up that design – obviously a man – should be made to clean it after every use!), the radiator does not work, the water is barely luke warm and there is no way I am standing on that floor with bare feet for a cold shower without being able to warm up afterwards. So, no shower for me today – I didn’t get at all hot or sweaty during the walk and make no apologies for being one of the ‘great unwashed’ for a day! The kitchen has a microwave but there are no utensils, or plates, cutlery or cups.

For this entire stage of 26 km there was only one opportunity to rest – at the bar at 7 km. In better weather we may have felt inclined to sit on the ground to have a picnic or a break. As it was, Paul and I tramped 18 km without taking the weight off our feet, and the boiled eggs made it all the way to the next albergue, where one of them was employed, together with some bagged salad and goat’s cheese spread to make me a tasty wrap on arrival.

Alcazarén may be harbouring some well hidden gems, but to be honest I am happy to let them remain undiscovered. I’ve had enough of the wind for today, and other than perhaps stepping out for a bite of supper later I have no plans to wander the streets of this rather unappealing town. Wow, that sounds a bit harsh – maybe I just need some sunshine to brighten my mood. Come on ‘Mr Blue Sky’, please come back.

Today’s distance 25.9 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 19 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 63 m
Total distance 201.3 km
Average per day 25.2 km

Despite the bunk beds in last night’s accommodation being more like hammocks with deeply sagging springs and mattresses, we all had a good night’s sleep in the tiny albergue and weren’t in any rush to leave as we had a short day today. Eli went off in search of breakfast, and Marilyn and I departed at a very tardy 07:50, leaving Paul eating his porridge.

Again the day started dull, but not nearly so cold as the previous days. We soon found Eli who had failed in her breakfast quest and we continued to a village just a couple of kms away, but none of the several bars were open. We eventually found more life at 13 km in the sizeable town of Nava de la Asunción, where we found Paul ensconced in a cosy cafe drinking a large cafe con leche and tucking into a tortilla. I ordered a fresh squeezed orange juice and a couple of tiny filled rolls before setting off again under the brightening sky.

The promised rain never turned up, although occasionally the clouds were quite threatening. During the first part of the walk, through pine forest we came across a message written in sticks and noticed that someone had written yesterday’s date. It may well have been Carsten or Dave who are a day ahead of us. I updated it and hoped that each passing day would bring a new pilgrim to keep the calendar correct.

We passed a newly planted strawberry field (and both Marilyn and I predictably started singing ‘strawberry fields forever’, but had to take a hop and a skip to avoid the watering system which was also watering the track and any passing pilgrims!

We all played cat and mouse with each other today. Marilyn and I walked together for a while, but I only glimpsed Paul and Eli in the distance, either in front or behind and we all walked our own walk. The second part was entirely through pine forest on very soft sand – rather like hiking on the beach. I needed a bit of propulsion, so plugged in to my camino playlist and zoomed off at a great pace. As I am sure I have said in the past, listening to music with the right beat for a quick pace really helps energise me – all aches temporarily disappear and movement is fluid.

The last ten kms seemed to pass in no time and I arrived in the town of Coca at 13:30. Paul had already found the albergue and alerted the kind hospitalera to our arrival. The albergue is in an unreformed village house and is rather basic, but has all we need. If the 16 beds were all taken, the one bathroom might have caused an impatient queue, but as we are only four, there will be no problem. Cost 5 euros. I was allocated a room with just one bunk bed which I have to myself, Paul is alone and Eli and Marilyn are sharing. The Spanish ladies walked on. I was quick into the shower and did a mound of washing before wandering out to discover the gems of Coca, including a fifteenth century Gothic-Mudéjar red brick castle, a Gothic church and the towering Mudéjar tower of San Nicolas.

There are plenty of bars, restaurants and shops here and we need to stock up on provisions as there are unlikely to be any shops open for the next two days, tomorrow being Sunday, and Monday being the Mayday national holiday.

I haven’t yet tempted fate by mentioning my lack of health issues. I stopped a blister in its tracks on day 2 by use of tape on my heel and Engo patch in my boot. I had the usual issues with my pack straps rubbing and bruising my collar bones for the first few days, but that has already eased, and my pack is generally feeling fairly comfortable and not too burdensome. So, one week in and all is well.

We have lost Carsten and Ralf for the time being and only coincided with Dave for a couple of days. But the four of us who remain are great companions, each enjoying being part of the group when it suits and wandering off on our own when it feels right. Perfect camigos.

Today’s distance 23.4 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 8 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 97 m
Total distance 175.4 km
Average per day 25 km

It was another very cold start to the day and again I was wearing almost every item of clothing I had with me. But luckily there was little or no breeze and the sun soon came up and I started to thaw.

Almost immediately we were in wide open countryside, almost flat, but with just a few rolling hills. The clouds formed whispy patterns in the bright blue sky and Paul shouted from ahead for me to turn around and look behind me. I was treated to the sight of the first hot air balloons I have seen in Spain.

On such flat land one can see the winding paths for miles ahead and soon we had reached the first village on our route at 5.5 km where we stopped for a warming hot drink and some extremely soggy toast.

Pine trees tapped for the sap

The next village was at 10 km and the third at 19 km where there is an albergue in the village of Añe, but no other facilities – no bars or shops. We continued to Santa Maria la Real de Nieva where we are staying in the tiny donativo albergue with three bunk beds, small kitchen and bathroom. There are a few bars with tapas and a restaurant that doesn’t serve food until 9pm, so we have bought food in the reasonably well-stocked supermarket to cook a pasta dish. A couple of late arrivals turned up in the form of two Spanish women.

The village boasts a large church and beautiful cloister with an interesting history. Luckily the church is open to the public this evening so we shall go take a look.

Overall today, the first two thirds of the walk were beautiful and very enjoyable – the last third slightly less so as it was on wide gravel track and very flat. But all in all, another very pleasant and well signed camino experience.

Today’s distance 31 km
Accumulated uphill elevation 136 m
Accumulated downhill elevation 257 m
Total distance 152 km
Average per day 25.3 km

The albergue at San Ildefonso was very cosy and warm – I can’t recommend it highly enough. We had no idea until we rose and looked out of the window that it had been snowing during the night. It continued as we walked out – not a lot, and not for long, but wow, that was a chilly start to the day

We walked along the main road into Segovia, the 601. There was a comfortable sand path alongside the road all the way and it wasn’t unpleasant. In fact it was easy walking and we made a very good pace for the 12 km into the heart of the city. I had on most of my walking clothes – short sleeve merino wool T-shirt, arm warmers, fleece, runner’s tights, hiking skirt and rain jacket, plus my visor and small buff over my head and ears and long buff wrapped three times around my neck. I didn’t use my walking poles because I wanted to keep my hands less exposed, but they were still freezing inside my thin gloves, although my body was warm enough.

There was a very sharp wind that drove us on to walk at full speed.

We arrived into Segovia at around 10:30 and found a cafe right under the famous aqueduct for a warming drink and scrambled egg breakfast. It was delicious. We relaxed, ordered another drink and finally left over an hour later. We had established that there were two options to deposit our backpacks whilst we played tourist around this beautiful city. The bus station has lockers and a hostal offers a left luggage service. We later realised that this was the place that Eli, Carsten and Ralf had stayed the previous night. So we walked a few minutes from the aqueduct to The Hostel Duerme Vela (www.duermevelahostel.com, tel 691 282 445 / 921 047 004) and left our packs for a fee of 3 euros each. It was a wonderful feeling to wander the city unencumbered.

The architecture is charming, the aqueduct is a sight to behold, the cathedral is magnificent and the castle could feature in a Disney film.

We met up with Eli in the castle and then ate a fabulous lunch in a restaurant Eli had experienced the previous night. Tuma serves excellent food with good vegan and vegetarian options. We all ordered a menu del dia for 11.50 euros and I brought half of my main course away for supper. Yum!

We went to collect our packs. Eli was very impressed with the accommodation and service and the place is very central, charge 18 euros for shared room. The receptionist recommended an alternative to the ‘official’ camino route for making out way the few kms to Zamarramala. And we were very glad we took her advice. The walk was delightful, through a park, alongside a river and finally a climb up to the village, with stunning views from the valley up to the castle and cathedral high above.

En route we passed by this tiny new-born donkey, so new that he hadn’t yet learned how to make his enormous ears stand on end.

I clocked 5 km from the hostal to The albergue at Zamarrramala, making a total of 17 kms of camino walking (and about 6 km of tourist walking around the city). The albergue was built in 2014, has 20 beds on the ground floor two gender-specific bathrooms, a good kitchen and reception area. There was lashings of hot water and we were able to control the radiators. Everything is shiny and new. I believe there are another 20 beds upstairs. A hospitalero is present from 14:30 to 21:00 and at other times it is possible to collect a key and register in the local shop and bars. No wifi. 8 euros. An excellent facility.

All in all I had a wonderful day. The icy wind eventually dropped mid afternoon and as we walked the last stage alongside the river I was finally able to divest myself of a few layers. We were even treated like celebrities when some American youths asked to take our photo and we impressed them with our combined camino accomplishments. Four pilgrims with 17 Camino’s already walked prior to this one!

We have parted company with Carsten and Ralf for the time being as they have walked on, but hopefully we will see them again along the way.

Today’s distance 17 km
Total distance 121 km
Average per day 24.2 km