Trepidatious traveller – camino blog

Total distance 609.5 km
Daily average 29
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 685 m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 702 m

I think there were seventeen in the albergue last night, only one of whom I had met before – Slovakian Peter. Most were still fast asleep when I left this morning, except for the German couple who had left around 06:30. I set off at 07:15 under a grey cloudy sky. It was another good day for walking off road, mostly through woodland, with a great deal of elevation – up and down, over and over again.

I stopped for a drink and met with two young guys from the UK and a Slovakian girl and later I came across two more new Germans. The French seem to have thinned out now.

I made a mistake in the middle of a eucalyptus plantation this afternoon, adding around 1.5 kms to my journey, but it could have been worse. The first half of the walk, into Cadavedo, was very well marked, but the arrows diminished a bit after this point. The hospitalero from the albergue in Soto de Luiña had been very busy with his yellow paint, marking just about anything that didn’t move (and maybe a few things that did!). He gave us a talk last evening about the options for the following stage, and recommended following the coastal route.

I have seen advertising for a couple of days for a newish private albergue in Luarca, but without any mention of cost and without contact details. I was thinking in a very sceptical way that when I arrived I would be faced with a 15 or 20 euro charge and wouldn’t want to move on because there is nowhere else very close – the municipal albergue is a few kms out of town. However, when I finally arrived I found a lovely establishment that is clean and sparkling with 24 beds, kitchen, washer/dryer, two lovely bathrooms and very central in the town. All for 10 euros – excellent value (except the wifi is too weak to be of any use).

The weather was a bit ‘iffy’ today. When I stopped for my morning break there were a few drops of rain and some very threatening clouds, so I took the opportunity to put on my shoulder cape just in case. That did the trick and kept the rain at bay for the rest of the day until I was almost at my destination, when I got slightly damp. The sun even put in a brief appearance during the afternoon and the cloud parted to show some blue sky.

The horreos (grain stores) in this area are huge and high rise. Most are about 3 or 4 metres square and propped at the level of the first floor of a house, whereas in Galicia they have been only around 1.5 metres wide and maybe 3 long and about a metre off the ground. When I was speaking to Javier the vet, he said they were built not only to keep out rats but also to keep out humidity, so perhaps they need to be higher off the ground here as there is more rain. Any other opinions, as always, gratefully accepted.

I am now just over half way through my 40 day journey and only two days away from my really big adventure of going ‘off camino’ for seven days between Ribadeo and Ferrol. This diversion gave me many sleepless nights of anxiety in the planning stages, but now that it is almost upon me, I am feeling rather laid-back about it – que sera, sera.

Total distance 571.1 km
Daily average 28.5
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 640 m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 614 m

Last night was a little strange. The hostal was undergoing an electrical wiring update and for some reason the electricity had to be turned off at 22:00. I spent a very pleasant hour or more talking to Austrian Phillip (or Felip), a very charming young man, by candle-light. And seeing to late night ablutions in pitch darkness was something of a challenge. It was equally challenging early this morning, using the bathroom with no window and no electricity. Thank goodness for the iPhone torch facility.

Once again the rain fell during the night – fast and furious as far as I was aware. But all over and done with by the time I left this morning.

Today has included the most ‘off road’ walking of the Camino thus far. I would guesstimate around 85% of track. Some really comfortable and level. Some really steep and very muddy. But all much appreciated.

I walked with many interruptions to play with my camera and the raindrops. There was much walking on woodland paths, with a couple of glimpses of the ocean. There was a short stage of uncomfortable road walking with not many cars, but those that passed did so at full speed around blind corners with no shoulder to walk on. But all in all, it was a most pleasant day’s walk.

There is a predilection for extremely brightly coloured houses in this area – some to make your toes curl!

I am staying at the municipal albergue in Soto de Luiña, situated in an old school. Rather basic, separate facilities, but only one shower and one loo for the ladies. And there are quite a few ladies tonight – we might even be in the majority for a change. I have taken supper with two Irish ladies, a lovely young German woman, and a German couple, and a man from Taiwan whose wife liked his slimline figure when he returned from his first Camino and encouraged him to return.

I was too distracted by the company to concentrate on today’s post, so apologies for the late delivery.

I was delighted to see two old favourites for the first time today – wild roses and fox gloves and the scenery, both within the woodland and the open pastureland were stunning.

The feet are still in compliance and there are no other niggles, which is a good thing because I am planning another long day tomorrow.

Total distance 537.3 km

Daily average 28.3
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 286 m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 279 m

First, thank you for the responses regarding the nostril-licking trick.  It seems this is a regular occurrence amongst my bovine friends.

Another bright and comfortable walking day dawned as I left my haven of privacy.

As I was leaving Gijon this morning I passed a new pilgrim who I soon learned was Diana, a Romanian living long-term in Germany. We fell into step and she told me this was the first day of her first Camino. Soon after we were joined by Javier a government veterinary from Majorca walking the first day of the third and final stage of his Camino del Norte. Despite there being much industry to walk through today, both out of Gijon and into Aviles, It was a delightful morning’s walk, full of exchanges and shared experiences.

Diane and Javier resisting the temptation to rest their legs on strategically placed chairs

I was sorry to depart from these guys at Aviles where they both decided to stop for the night, whilst I walked on, now joined by Peter from Slovakia, to Salinas.

I was so busy talking that I didn’t take many photos, although I’m sure you wouldn’t be interested in the factories that I passed or in the lorries that whizzed past me. There was however a very pleasant walk along quiet country roads in between the two cities.

Typical vegetable garden tucked into a tiny plot

There is not much more to be said about today. Salinas in a seaside town at high tide when I arrived with only a few pebbles to be seen between the water and the sea wall. I went shopping for my supper and have enjoyed what might be my favourite meal so far on this Camino. A bacon buttie (with multigrain roll AND butter), a box of cherry tomatoes, a sweet pastry, some nectarines and a bottle of cava. All for around six euros. Priceless!

I am staying in Las Dunas Hostal at Salinas, very much a surfers’ place, although there are none in occupation today. Just Peter and myself and Austrian Phillip, who I have not previously met. The accommodation is rather overpriced I think – albergue style bunks, but with an abundance of lounging space and very adequate kitchen, but 20 euros. Two expensive nights in a row!

The great news is that today, for the first time on this Camino, my feet have been totally free of any discomfort. I felt very strong today and I am hoping that this is my turning point. On reflection it has been at about the two and a half week point on my previous caminos that my feet adjusted to the workload demanded of them and started to comply with my demands.

Onward and westward…

Total distance 502.4 km
Daily average 27.9
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 562 m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 577 m

I think I said that there were ten beds at Albergue Ferreria – there are actually 12. I wandered around the surrounding area after visiting the village bar and before supper and here is a montage of the delights. Supper was as I predicted – lentil soup, salad (without pasta!) and yoghurt, with plenty of bread and wine. Sitting around the table were:
5 French
3 Germans
1 Italian
1 Slovakian
Me
And our charming hospitalero Sergio.

This has been my favourite albergue because of the tranquil and kind atmosphere. It is possible to phone ahead and reserve your bed – tel 646 516 846, email alberguelaferreria@hotmail.com

I was glad my French/Italian friends, and of course Gunter were all staying here, because this morning it was time to say goodbye. We shared the Camino del Norte for just 1.5 kms before it split for the way of the Primitivo. We all hugged and posed for a parting photo. I was very lucky to share time with these guys and I have become Facebook friends with the beautiful Zelinda (what a fabulous name) so we will be able to keep in touch.

Gilbert, Gunter, Pascual, me and Zelinda

And then it was time for a new stage of this Camino adventure, and I happily strode off in the same direction as the three remaining French that I have shared stages with over the last couple of days.

There was a lot more elevation today than of late, with an absolutely never-ending climb through woodland tracks and minor roads. Then of course the inevitable descent deep into the valley and, you guessed it – back up the other side. I enjoyed a rather breathless telephone conversation with my daughter who has been away ‘off grid’ since before I started walking, and there was lots of catching up to do sharing our respective adventures. I have Ella to thank for my interest (¿obsession?) with the Camino. It all started when she invited me to join her walking the Camino Frances back in 2013, at which time I had done no pleasure walking. 3,575 camino kms later (and countless hundreds more walking in the mountains around my home ) I am still pounding the camino trails.

I would think the walking today was 50:50 hard v dirt tracks, although it may have been more like 60:40 with the walk into the city.

During the last few days I have seen a huge road-kill massacre of cold-blooded creatures, namely lizards and frogs, who have met an untimely end whilst crossing the roads, presumably with the intention of ensuring the continuation of their species (if only they could have foretold the result of these primal urges). I sadly walked past many pairs of squashed copulating frogs and the flattened lizards were spaced at regular intervals for more distance than I like to recall.

I was also moved to tears today by the plight of a very, very sad little dog. I didn’t take a photo because I didn’t want the image to stay with me for longer than necessary. I was passing by and admiring a beautifully planted garden when I encountered this sorrowful guy on a raised platform, so that he and my head were about the same height. He craved attention, he was wriggling at the very edge of the wall, looking at me with beautiful sad eyes, ginger in colour – the same as his coat should have been. But it was not ginger. He had a thick, long coat and the hair on his ears was clumped into dreadlocks coated in either excrement or mud, his body hair was felted into lumps. He was on a chain and was surrounded by gnawed bones. I petted him for a very long time and dispaired that someone who could put so much time and effort into making such a beautiful garden could leave this delightful creature to suffer in such a way. Totally heartless.

The next creature I came across was performing a very interesting trick. She was really interested in me and put her nose out to be petted, and then proceeded to lick the inside of her nostrils, repeatedly, first left, then right, for as long as I stood there. Is this normal cow behaviour? Henk, do you know?

Although I passed a couple of bars en route, they were firmly closed. It was not until a few km’s out of Gijon that I found one open, after around 22 kms. So anyone walking this route, don’t imagine that when your guidebook mentions that a village has a bar, that it will actually be open to serve you.

The inexpensive accommodation on this stage is some distance before Gijon that would make for a very long walk tomorrow, which I don’t want. So I kept walking into the city, assuming I would come across an information office where I could be told of cheap hostals. I didn’t find one, and my iPad data allowance had run out so I couldn’t Google. I called into a hotel to ask for a map and discovered that a single room would cost 35 euros, and decided to stay. I’m sure I could have found a better priced place to stay, but my feet were aching and I didn’t want to wander around with my backpack, so just went for it. And I have treated myself to a bath. The last bath I had was at the end of my first Camino in 2013. I almost fell asleep. And kept topping up with hot water. The freedom of a private room is quite liberating when you are used to always being discrete and considering others’ needs as well as your own. I have spent a couple of hours thinking only about myself and have very wrinkly toes as a result. A small price to pay I think!

I wandered around the old quarter of Gijon for a while and found a shop in the commercial centre to top up my data sim and then did a bit of shopping for supper and tomorrow’s journey. The sun put in its first appearance at around 8pm – a welcome, if rather belated sight.

Total distance 387.5 km
Daily average 27.6
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 285 m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 258 m

Today started well with a beautiful sunrise above the estuary at San Vicente. This is the first real sunrise I have witnessed due to tardy starting times. This morning I decided I wouldn’t just lie in bed waiting for others to wake up. I rose shortly after 6 am and took myself to the bathroom with all that I needed to make a leisurely start to the day. I didn’t partake of the included breakfast as I don’t really like to eat early in the morning, but I did help myself to a cup of hot water before wandering out to inspect the sunrise.

On leaving the albergue I stated to no-one in particular that today would be the day that my feet wouldn’t hurt (not really believing it, but ever-hopeful).

The hospitalero had suggested an alternative exit from the town which entails leaving via the small bridge over the estuary and schlepping along the N634 for untold km’s rather than the ‘official’ route on a smaller winding road that is considered more dangerous (and around 5 km longer). At least the N634 has a wide shoulder and not much traffic as there is a motorway nearby. The countryside was lovely – expansive rolling green hills with the snowy mountains in the background and the distance was covered quite quickly.

The aroma emanating from a roadside cafeteria drew me in to sample the wares and I purchased a hot chocolate and a tortilla bocadillo. Once I had drunk the hot chocolate I was completely full and saved the bocadillo for later.

Then it was back on the road until 9km had been covered, at which point I was invited to divert onto a track through some woodland. It was quite charming, and I was inspired to start singing ‘Teddy Bears’ picnic’…

If you go down to the woods today
You’re sure of a big surprise.
If you go down to the woods today
You’d better go in disguise!

For every bear that ever there was
Will gather there for certain,
Because today’s the day the
Teddy Bears have their picnic.

I’m never far away from a childhood song – my father would constantly break into song, particularly when we were driving somewhere in the car. There are always certain triggers that will send me off, either discretely in my head or, more often, embarrassingly out loud. Just as I came to the end of the nursery rhyme there came to me another delicious aroma of sweet cakes – in the middle of the woods? How could that be? Were the wood nymphs preparing for the picnic? As I was puzzling this strange turn of events, the track emerged alongside the railway line and on the other side was an industrial area. There must have been a cake factory sparking my imagination. But I enjoyed the illusion whilst it lasted. The woodland track only continued for around one kilometre but it was nevertheless a great relief from pounding the highway.

Not many pretty villages today, but a couple of sizeable towns and then a steep climb out of Unquera, where there was an adventure playground inhabited by goats. A young kid (the four legged variety) had managed to climb up onto a high platform, but was then stranded and calling for his mum to help.

The next relief from the road came at 14 km, but again for only around one kilometre.

At 19.5 km my guide explained that there was a diversion to be followed. If you are planning to walk this route, be sure to follow this short diversion that will take you from a gravel track back onto the main road, but only for a moment until you see painted on the road a sign to cross over for the coastal route. Cross the railway line, over the first of many stiles, and YAY…moorland trail all along the coast.

What a difference a few metres can make. Hard slog one moment and absolute joy the next. Flower speckled green pasture to walk over, with a backdrop of the azure ocean. I was so very happy. It is amazing how my spirits are lifted by my surroundings.

By this time I was walking with Gunter and we picked our way through the rocky fields, occasionally peering over the cliff edge at the waves pounding onto the sheer rocks far below. We made our way past herds of cows standing at the very edge of the cliff, and by interesting rock formations jutting out of the ocean. At one point we considered whether we should attempt to pass a high rocky ridge that straddled two bays, but Gunter showed great good sense in suggesting that it might not be the best idea to risk our lives on that particular adventure. There was a beautiful little cove on the inland side of these rocks where the sea had found its way through caves to blow up into the cove. And a little further we came across an incredible cave, full of stalagmites. This little adventure spanned only around five km’s but as progress was slow due to the terrain and the fact that we kept stopping to admire new wonders, it actually took us a long time.

It was another hot sunny day today, albeit with a cooling breeze during the afternoon. As the day wears on I am having to wear my long buff over the back of my neck to stop it burning, and the top of my left ear is rather pinker than the right one. The sun starts at our backs, but obviously moves around during the day and concentrates on the left side as the day progresses. Where I have been squinting against the sun, I have some very attractive (not) white lines in the creases around my eyes. What with the ankle tan lines and the t-shirt marks, I am building quite a look.

We reached the donativo albergue at Pendueles mid afternoon. There are sixteen beds, two bathrooms, communal dinner made by the hospitaleros – two Sicilian brothers – and they have done everyone’s washing for them. What stars!

Pendueles is a very small village without many facilities, although there are two or three bars and a small mini market.

We are a small group of seven here today. Five Germans, one Dutch and me. Not sure where the usual crowd have ended up.

My feet acted as I predicted and didn’t hurt all day, other than the ache that comes from all the pavement walking, so I am very pleased about that.

Rain is forecast for tomorrow – let’s hope they’ve got it wrong again.

Total distance 361.5 km
Daily average 27.8
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 400 m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 455 m

A very pleasant meal was taken last evening with two French, two Germans, one Italian and me. And true to his word, Jordi (Spanish dog man) removed his mattress from the bunk above mine and took it outside to sleep with his dog. I could still hear him snoring, even through the closed dorm window.

I awoke to a beautiful clear morning and decided to wear my home-made hiking skirt for the first time. It was very comfortable and it was nice to feel the benefit of a light breeze where the sun doesn’t shine. I was a bit concerned that if the breeze picked up, so might my skirt, which wouldn’t have been very pleasant for anyone, but the weight of my phone in the pocket seemed to anchor it adequately. I have to admit that skirt and hiking boots isn’t my best look, but we don’t worry about that sort of thing on Camino.

It was another day of slogging along the road. With the exception of maybe two or three km’s on alternative hard surface, ie large stones which are even worse than Tarmac, it was road walking all the way, albeit for the first two thirds through beautiful countryside and exceptionally pretty little villages. This area really is very attractive with stone built houses with wooden hanging balconies, all pristinely maintained.

At the town of Cóbreces options presented themselves. One, as I entered the town to take the back roads passing by delightful cottages rather than walking through the town centre. This was a good option, although probably a little longer. The next came at the exit of the town, where I chose the ‘alternative’ option. It was very pleasant, again on back roads and through a wooded area. I later discovered that the ‘official’ option would have taken me closer to the coastline, which I would have preferred.

The grass is always greener…

Once the two routes joined back together it was more slog along the road, on and on and …… But there was finally the benefit of walking within view of the coastline.

It’s not always better to be ‘off road’

We finally reached San Vicente after what seemed a very long day. The albergue here is just about OK, certainly not great. 10 euros incl breakfast, rather tired dormitory with slightly grubby beds and very basic showers, but plenty of them. It is in a very nice setting high above the seaside town close to the castle.

I teamed up with Gunter for a menu del dia at restaurant Devino, very nice food for 9 euros (including a one euro pilgrim discount).

I am still the only Brit around, not even any other English first language pilgrims. No Aussies, Americans, Canadians, or New Zealanders. Almost entirely French and Germans.

There are a lot of pilgrims at the albergue tonight, many I haven’t come across thus far. I would hope to put some distance between myself and the crowd by walking longer distances than some might prefer. I definitely don’t like being in such a crowd – although it is really just at the stopping point I come across them, during the walk I hardly see anyone. Vamos a ver.

A lovely hot day today, with a nice breeze to cool us down in the afternoon.

There seem to be plenty of drinking fountains along the route, which is really good.

My feet are doing better. Just one painkiller today. Left foot fine. Right foot – little toe blister almost better, and ball of foot not as painful.

Hopefully (I am ever hopeful), the walking will be easier tomorrow.

Total distance 327 km
Daily average 27.3
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 216 m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 183 m

I set off after a good night’s sleep for a day’s walking entirely on road. Most of it was through pleasant countryside and a little through uninteresting towns. Mostly I walked alone, but towards the end of the day I walked with German Gunter.

Gunter stayed in the donativo albergue last night and it sounds as though I should have walked the extra distance and stayed there also. There was a communal meal and wifi and a happy crowd of pilgrims. Whereas I stayed at the private accommodation ‘Nimon’ that calls itself an albergue, but was just an apartment with several rooms available. It was ok and cost 15 euros including breakfast that I didn’t want.

A few km’s into the walk a decision had to be made. The ‘official Camino’ took a long loop around a river at the town of Boo, which added many km’s to the day’s distance. There were two alternatives to this, one legal and one illegal. The legal option involved taking the train one stop over the river via a bridge. And the illegal option was to walk on the rails over the bridge and pray that a train didn’t come during the crossing.

I had decided on the illegal option, but really didn’t want to do it on my own. I am generally a law abiding, risk averse kind of person, but I didn’t want to add unnecessary km’s and I didn’t want to take any form of transport. My good luck held out and just as I approached the point where it was necessary to walk along the tracks, a lovely spanish guy and his dog appeared as if from nowhere. So I had moral support for my illegal and slightly dangerous adventure. It is just under one kilometre that has to be walked along the tracks but only around 100 metres across the bridge. As we approached, a train came hurtling by and almost whipped off my visor with the backdraught. It was close. But I had read that the trains only crossed the bridge every thirty minutes, so we should have plenty time to make it across before the next one. That didn’t stop me walking as fast as I could though. And I was very relieved to reach the other side

All was well and I enjoyed chatting in a mix of English and Spanish with my new pilgrim friend. His dog, a beautiful spanish pointer is a bit of a wayward spirit. Dashing all over the place, into fields of cows with tiny calves which caused a lot of agitation. Into every garden that we passed which caused pandemonium as every dog in the neighbourhood (and there were several in each property) asserted their ownership rights and barked as loudly and ferociously as they were able. It was a rolling pattern of raucous dog noise over and over again. Not conducive to a peaceful Camino, so I put some distance between us, although the noise bounced back at me until they were a long way ahead. Dog and owner were charming, but completely oblivious of the chaos they were causing to others.

Earlier in the day I found a rare opportunity to take some dew-drop pics and am rather pleased with the results.

I came across a herd of cows with a couple of tiny calves that were shackled with wooden yokes with chains dragging from them. The only reason I can imagine for this unnecessary treatment was that perhaps they were doomed to be fighting bulls and their necks needed to be strengthened. Any info to the contrary will be happily received.

I arrived at my stopping place of Santillana del Mar (although it is not on the coast, it is not far from it) at around 14:00. The albergue does not open until 16:00. We are now a group of twelve pilgrims sitting in the sunshine waiting for the hospitalero to arrive and allocate the beds.
7 French
1 German
1 Italian
1 Colombian
I spanish (with dog)
And me

As one of the fist to arrive I was quickly into the shower before a queue formed. The albergue has sixteen beds over two rooms with two showers and two loos. Spanish dog man was allocated a bed in my room which caused alarm bells, as he had told me he is a champion snorer (roncador). But thankfully he said he would sleep outside with his dog. The cost is 6 euros and we were given a nice cotton sheet and pillowcase to put on the rubber covered mattresses and pillows.

Clean and changed, I wandered out into this charming largely renovated medieval village. It really is quite beautiful, but marred by herds of tour groups. There are an abundance of touristy shops, and many restaurants which seem reasonably priced – I might try one later – watch this space! There is even a Parador (but I won’t try that) That was a lie – I am currently in the parador uploading this post.

I had read that this Camino entailed a lot of road walking, but slightly dismissed this info as pilgrim whinging. But it seems thus far that for every glorious day of cliff top/ beach walking, one has a price to pay in the form of pavement pounding. But I am only on day 12 of 40, so things may well change – let’s hope that change is for the better!

Oh, and by the way – it occurred to me yesterday as I walked through Santander that it took me three hours to get from the city to Irun on the bus, and ten and a half days to walk back again. But I have seen so much more.

Total distance 271.8 km
Daily average 27.2
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation ?
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation ?

I didn’t do very well with my GPS today. Firstly, I forgot to turn it on until I had walked a couple of km’s, then I reset my phone when I was fiddling with something else, and that caused it to stop recording. So I shall include the elevation profile for the first part of the walk and take the distance from my guide.

I wandered around the Anchovy Feria last evening and ate sufficient samples that I didn’t require any supper. The stall holders must get really fed up with people like me, but they were all very patient when I kept doing the rounds. Then I had a few glasses of wine with German Carsten who was expecting to take a short stage today. It was just American Niki and me last night in our room for four, and I slept very well. This morning I made a leisurely start (as I have done most mornings) and took advantage of the excellent wifi connection at the albergue to do some blog admin.

There is a walk of a couple of km’s out of the town Santoña and then I came to a beach at the far end of the town. An absolutely pristine beach of fine white sand. I really enjoyed walking along it towards the cliff at the far end. Said cliff then had to be climbed. The track was narrow and rocky and wound ever upward through shrubby growth of gorse and wild flowers. It was quite tough, and quite close to the edge. A slip wearing a backpack could have been disastrous. Definitely not for the faint-hearted – probably the most difficult track I have walked due to the terrain more than the elevation. But I just had to keep stopping to look back at the view of beach and sparkling waves immediately below me.

I finally reached the top, and was welcomed by a view of the next long sweeping beach. In fact from the ridge I could see both beaches at the same time, such a beautiful sight.

I then had to find the path back down the other side – it is difficult to believe that so many people are using it because it seemed quite ill-defined to begin with. It was possibly even steeper going down, very rocky with big drops to be managed and always the fear of twisting an ankle on the pointy rocks. I made it down very carefully and slowly and in one piece, having made constant use of my pacerpoles to steady my descent. I think the shape of the handle, which allows me to lean down with the palm/heel of the hand must make them more useful in this type of situation than straight poles.

This has to be the most spectacular start to any stage on any Camino. I wouldn’t have wanted to do this climb or descent in a strong wind or in rain, but as my great good luck would have it, the air was totally still and the sun was shining down from a blue sky.

I treated myself to a rest on a comfortable rock to make notes on events so far, and it was quite an effort to rouse myself and set off along beach number two onwards the next town.

About half way across there was an inlet of water to be negotiated, but it was impossible to tell how shallow it was, so I waited for someone else to cross before making the decision to remove my boots. So off they came for a paddle across the stream and then I walked barefoot the rest of the way. It was wonderful and although a little hard going sinking into the sand, all my aches and pains momentarily disappeared.

The rest of the day’s walk was through beautiful lush countryside, but once again entirely on hard surface and my feet are really suffering this year. I have just the one blister on my right little toe – no other surface wounds, but the balls of my feet ache so much, not always the same ache, but pretty much all the time. Whether this is due to all the hard-surface walking or possibly my boots being less than perfect, I don’t know. But hopefully one day soon I will be walking with a spring in my step again.

I have now arrived at the much recommended Albergue la Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto in Güemes. It is apparently a very special place and I will be able to tell you more about that later. For now I have been allocated a room with nine beds and am sharing with French, Italian and Colombian Alex from day one. There is a beautiful relaxing garden with a snoring golden retriever (when she finally moved I could see she is actually a huge mastin) lying prostrate on the daisy sprinkled lawn and I am awaiting a communal dinner at 8pm.

It was a shortish stage without much elevation after the initial climb up to heaven, but it has felt anything but easy.

Total distance 218.8 km
Daily average 27.4
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 337m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 320m

Yesterday evening I wandered around the village of Pobeña and came to the conclusion that there might be more bars than houses. But only one had wifi and dinner. It was the least attractive option, but the possibility of food was very attractive. My prejudice was proved to be totally misplaced and I ate a delicious plate of chicken breast and chips and was given a bottle of wine (although I only drank one glass – honest!) for the princely sum of 6 euros – all with very good service. Excellent value. The bar is in the street behind the albergue and is called Bar Itxaspe.

This morning dawned bright with blue sky. That’s a first for this Camino. There was still a brisk breeze, but the blue sky was worth a chilly start. I was first faced with a climb up 120 steps to a path along the cliff edge, high above the ocean. A fabulous start to the day. After an hour or so of walking the path diverted away from the ocean and along quiet country roads. I passed through a couple of villages and I took a short break at around 14 km for a hot drink.

There were two options today and once again I got it wrong. I was planning to take the track that followed the coastline, but obviously wasn’t paying sufficient attention at the right time and ended following the ‘official’ way of the yellow arrows, along an interminable ‘via verde’ cycle/walking track, without a glimpse of the sea until I reached Castro-Urdiales at 21.5 km. C-U is a prosperous resort with many gated communities and a promenade along the beach of 1.5 km. From the start of the promenade to the municipal albergue is 3 km, but I had decided not to stay here tonight, but to continue another 8 km to Islares.

More road walking ensued, all very quiet, but 30 km on paved surfaces is very hard on the feet. There was just a stretch of around 2 km at the end of the walk that was on beautiful coastal path, so at least the day ended on a high.

I was very pleased to see a sign for the albergue, but not quite so pleased when I got inside. All was spotlessly clean, but it was somehow very depressing. I registered and paid my 5 euros, but then started having second thoughts. I looked at google maps to see the layout of the village, and could see that the only shop and bars were almost 1.5 kms further on. I also saw from my notes that there is a camping ground that will give pilgrims a bed for 10 euros, and there is a bar/restaurant on site. So I picked up my stuff and wandered along the road to ‘Camping Playa Arenillas’. I have a small hut with two beds and would have to share if another female turned up, which was very unlikely by the time I arrived. It is extremely basic, and the shower/wc block is a two minute walk away, but even so it is cosier than the albergue (in my opinion!)

Islares is an odd sort of place, consisting of a development of new, probably expensive, houses that in my opinion have not been well designed, and there is no-one around. I guess many of them haven’t been sold and others are used for holiday homes. But the campsite is beautifully presented and well managed. I am glad I moved on. There are several very pretty beaches within a few metres of the site and other options to eat close by.

So, today has been my third day running of walking practically all day on paved tracks/roads, and my feet are really feeling the strain. I have a blister under my right little toe today, and lots of aches and pains.

So I am ending my eighth day feel rather foot-sore and weary, but at least the sun put in an appearance today and I was able to take my first shadow photo!

I have noticed that the Spanish here in the north are great dog lovers. All sorts of dogs, from minuscule to huge and everything inbetween, seem to be well loved and cared for. Very nice to see after the treatment that many poor hounds receive in my area of Andalucia.

Total distance 185.8 km
Daily average 26.5
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 121m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 301m

Ah, the joys of sharing a room with young women (once they stopped chattering and settled down). Not a sound, no creaking beds or grunting or getting up in the night for the bathroom – just total silence. Bliss!

I forgot to mention yesterday that I had no great after-effects from my fall. My arm and thigh are a little sore if I prod them – but there is an easy solution to that. And the blister receded – those Engo patches certainly do a good job.

I enjoyed my walk through and out of the city this morning, I popped back to the Plaza Nueva to appreciate its ambience one more time and then headed towards the Rio Nervión. There are various options by which to depart the city and I chose to walk alongside the river with the water to my left. This took me on the opposite bank from the Guggenheim which I predicted would give me better views across the water. I wasn’t disappointed. It’s a magnificent piece of architecture and the reflections in the water were lovely.

There isn’t a great deal to commend the walk after this point, it becomes more and more industrial and less and less attractive. After 14 km I reached the amazing Vizcaya hanging transporter bridge that crosses the river to Portugalete. Built in 1893 and designed by Alberto Palacio, one of Gustave Eiffel’s disciples, to provide access between the towns of Getxo and Portugalete without disrupting the shipping activities of the Port of Bilbao. Since completion it has only been out of action for four years – during the Spanish Civil War. During the day it runs every eight minutes, and is able to transport 6 cars and dozens of pedestrians. During the night it operates every hour. It cost me 40 centimos to take the trip and was a great experince. It is also possible to take an elevator 50 metres up to the top of the bridge for magnificent views of the port and Abra bay, and to cross by foot.

I stopped off in Portugalete to buy some bread and a pastry. If you are taking is route, you might like to find a bar here for your last coffee and comfort break before the destination of Pobeña. I thank my stars daily on the camino that I rarely need to make such advanced planning as I seem to have been blessed with an iron-cast bladder. I have only ever been caught out a couple of times, last year on the Mozarabe when there were extremely long stages without benefit of any such facilities. I shall enjoy this freedom whilst I have it, because I expect advancing years will put an end to this good fortune.

The people of Portugalete are rather spoiled – they have been provided with a series of escalators running up a steep hill into the town. You’ll be pleased to learn that I remained pure in my actions and propelled myself up the hill with no mechanical help. The trail eventually leads to a bridge over a complicated motorway intersection via a cycling/walking track. There is another option at this point to divert via the town of Ortuella or stay on the cycle track, which I chose to do. And there I remained virtually all the way into Pobeña. From Bilbao a total of 26 kms walking on paved surface, with only one glimpse of the ocean on the way. The track was well used by both cyclists and walkers and I received many ‘buen caminos’ from both groups. I also had a lovely elderly lady stop me earlier in the day. She asked if I was walking to Santiago, and beamed when I told her I was. She grabbed my hand and squeezed it and wished me Buen Camino. I was very touched (emotionally as well as physically!)

The last km of the walk was glorious, on a sandy track that lead to a huge swathe of sandy beach, and the last stretch was via a boardwalk on the beach. The small town of Pobeña is quite pretty and has an albergue, but this time my guide book was correct, and it was closed until 1 May. I didn’t want to walk further (17.5 kms to Castro-Urdiales) so my only option was to stay at a tourist accommodation above the restaurant Mugarri. A bit of a budget-buster at 35 euros, but I actually have a small apartment with kitchen – even washing machine. An Austrian woman arrived shortly after me and was allocated a small room for the same money. I had already asked about the cost to share a room if someone else came along, but it was only a saving of 5 euros and I think both the Austrian (who I hadn’t seen previously as she only started her Camino from Bilbao this morning) and I wouldn’t have wanted to share with each other.

So I have the luxury of spreading my stuff all over the place and taking a hot drink whenever I fancy. I have written this sitting on the beach where I found a spot behind a beak water, out of the cool wind. However the wind has just crept around to find me so I shall finish this post in the warmth, maybe with a glass of wine to hand.

Total distance 158.8km
Daily average 26.5
Today’s accumulated uphill elevation 446m
Today’s accumulated downhill elevation 659m

There were just four of us at the lovely albergue in Eskerika last night and a very good night’s sleep was had.

I was on the road at a leisurely 08:15 for the fairly short walk into Bilbao. It was short but not particularly sweet. The majority of the walking was on road and the sections of track were not good to walk on. Because I decided to walk in shorts this morning, it started to rain fairly early on. Not hard but enough to necessitate a stop for wet weather gear. The shorts were OK – it was not at all cold.

I was very tired today, probably due to the long treck yesterday.

This odd mouse-like creature was wandering on the road today, it seemed to have no sense of sight and walked right between my feet.

There really isn’t very much to say about today’s walk. The donativo albergue in Bilbao is open, contrary to my guidebook information which stated it didn’t open until May. But when I looked on the map I could see it was a very long way out of the city centre, so I found myself a central hostal – The Ganbara in which I have a bed in a female dorm for six with ensuite, 17,10 euros including breakfast. There are also plenty of other bathrooms on the floor. And also a washer and dryer, so I have treated my clothes to a spin.

When I arrived at the hostal I was very pleased to see Alan and Niki were staying here, and since there have arrived a whole load of pilgrims I have been seeing over the last few days.

I will probably walk out of town tomorrow via the Guggenheim museum, rather than take the hike out there now. I am not planning to go inside as I have heard it is rather disappointing, but I do want to see the building. I am hoping to meet up with a blogging pal who lives in the city early this evening and with luck he will introduce me to some of the culinary specialities of the area.

Not many photos due to rain and lack of inspiration. So I shall showcase a few that got missed in previous posts.

Just back from meeting my friend. Went to the main square – Plaza Nueva for wine and pintxos – what a wonderful selection of deliciousness.