The final leg of my pre-camino camino

Rain was forecast for the whole of this week excepting Monday, and the prophesy was not wrong.  We have had days and days of downpours. Not the odd spot here and there, but determined great dollops of the wet stuff pounding down and coursing like mini rivers all around us.  The good thing about living on a mountain is that we are unlikely to get flooded.

Why the powers that be cannot organise the rain to fall evenly throughout the year is most frustrating, for nothing is surer than we will have nary a drop for several months over the summer when it is most needed.

So, as a consequence of the weather forecast we chose Monday to walk the final leg of my Camino Mozárabe ‘prequel’ into Málaga.

The timetable for the three daily buses from the village into Málaga did not enable us to take this form of transport in both directions so we once again called upon the good nature of David to drive us to our previous stopping off point at Rincon de la Victoria, where he dropped us at around 13:15.

I don’t really know this area, and the town of Rincon does not look particularly appealing when driving through, but the beaches are magnificent, long deep swathes of beautiful soft, flat sand, combed to perfection by an early morning tractor.  It seemed a crime to spoil the patterns in the sand (like being the first person to put a footprint in the snow), but someone had to do it, and on this occasion it was my job.

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Leaving Rincon, there is a lovely coastal path that alternates between a paved foot/cycle track with tunnels that cut through the cliffs, and a fenced path along the very edge of the cliffs.  We passed by the monstrous cement factory and onto another beach.

I discovered a new flower (new to me that is, I am sure others have come across it before me!) It looks like some kind of orchid – growing abundantly around the tower at Rincon.
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And then we were in the outskirts of Málaga, with probably five or six more km’s to walk but in a very vibrant area with a lovely promenade alongside the beach with dozens of seafood restaurants lining the way, some bursting at the seams with diners – not bad business for an out of season Monday afternoon.
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And soon we reached an area I was more familiar with, although I haven’t walked it before. We varied our path between the beach and the promenade, and it was quite delightful. We reached the city, passed the new marina area (which I have yet to explore) and made our way past the beautifully planted park, towards the cathedral and on to the church of Santiago, which is the starting point for the Camino Mozárabe from Málaga.


After a chat with a church warden about opening times for the first stamp in my credencial (pilgrim’s passport), we found a nice bar in the old town and shared a selection of tapas before catching the 18:30 bus back to Cómpeta.

The walk from Rincon de la Victoria to Málaga was, according to wikiloc 15.9 km and according to mapmywalk 16.75, so probably somewhere inbetween.

It was a delightful walk and I would definitely like to go back and sample the wares of some of those seafood restaurants some time. Maybe we might stop off next Tuesday when we will drive to Málaga to pick up my credencial from the Asociación Jacobea (the pilgrims’ office) which is open only on Tuesday evenings from 19:00 for a couple of hours. This is very easy for me to organise but rather more difficult for the majority of pilgrims who will be travelling from far away.

I would like to thank my great friend Renate who has accompanied me on all stages of this pre-camino. We were hoping that she would accompany me From Málaga to Córdoba, but alas her busy life no longer allows her to do this. But who knows, maybe she can join me for a while further along the route – I hope so!

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Expats in andalucia | Tagged , , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Total eclipse in the fog

We were never going to get a good view of the eclipse today unless we travelled to the other side of the mountain ridge behind our house. We don’t see the sun until around 10am this time of year. And the forecast was for 100% chance of rain all day long, so I didn’t fancy a hike over the mountain this morning.

But as the time for the eclipse approached (around 09:15) I did feel that I wanted to be part of it in some way so I decided to go ahead and do my normal dog walk. Whilst waiting for David to put on his shoes I stood and watched a blanket of cloud zoom up the valley and cover the village of Canillas de Albaida below us in a matter of seconds. But there was not a hint of wind so I was puzzled as to how the cloud could move so fast.

Unusually, Sheba the cat accompanied us on this rather eerie walk, she often follows us half way down the drive and then peels off into the scrubland to hunt for an extra breakfast, but today she followed us for 800 metres or so, wanting to keep close to us in these unexpected conditions, yowling in that special way she uses when she is very unsure of her situation. It became darker and darker, assisted by the dense cloud we were walking through.

And as we were on the home straight the promised rain started to fall – a few drops at first, and steadily getting heavier. When we reached the house, all of us soggy and dripping, I opened the door and there was Sheba was waiting for us – the sensible cat had made it home before the rain started.

All in all, a fascinating experience – and no need for special specs to protect our eyes!

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Part two of my pre-camino camino

As you may remember, I am walking from home to Málaga as a prequel to my forthcoming Camino Mozárabe.  I walked the first leg a few weeks ago, from my front door to Algarrobo Costa. I wrote about it here.

As it is only four weeks until I set off on the Mozárabe it was time I got on with the second stage from Algarrobo to Rincon de la Victoria.  So I boarded the 9am bus from Canillas this morning (Sunday) to take me back to my finish point of stage one.  The fare was 1 euro and 98 cents. What was that all about? What a silly fare. Why not just make it 2 euros and save the poor driver having to fish about for change?  My friend joined me at the next stop and paid a fare of 1 euro 73 cents and we trundled down the mountain to the coast.

Roly had to stay at home today as dogs are only allowed to travel in the boot of the bus – not the way I would treat my boy!

The weather started off quite fresh but soon warmed up and became quite hot.  We walked along beside the beach, past Caleta marina and then I noticed that a wide path of sand had been compacted to form a lovely firm walkway along the beach all the way through to the far side of Torre del Mar.  The path was packed with walkers, runners, cyclists and even someone with roller skates and ski poles.

(I am using the wordpress ‘gallery’ option to display the photos in this post. You can click on the pics to see them full size)

I didn’t really know quite how this walk would turn out – how much road walking we would have to do, but we were very pleasantly surprised to discover that we were able to walk on the beach or on dirt tracks and pathways for probably 85% of the way.

Once past Torre del Mar we had to cross a stream, so the boots came off for a few km’s which was rather nice. We took advantage of the shower on the nudist beach at Almayate to wash off our feet and return them to our boots, and felt rather over dressed amongst the nudists enjoying the spring sunshine.

I found walking on the beach quite hard work so every now and then we would pop up to the roadside path for a few minutes, and then return to the sand. We walked along the promenade at Benajarafe, which is a lovely resort, and stopped off at a chiringuito for a cold drink. All the tables were filling up with spanish families out for their Sunday lunch. This is a lovely tradition and all the best restaurants fill up very quickly and the waiters are rushed off their feet for a few hours.

We passed countless fishermen along the way. Fishing seems to compete with cycling in this area as the most popular participation sport.

The walk from Benajarafe into Rincon de la Victoria was longer than I had anticipated and it had grown rather warm by the time we finally met up with David who had kindly come to meet us and drive us back up the hill.

My iPhone app ‘mapmywalk’ told me that we had walked 24.25 km. However I am not quite so confident in the accuracy of this app as, for reasons I won’t bore you with, I have been using two GPS apps side-by-side for the last few walks and they show quite differing distances covered.

This was a really lovely day’s walk in the company of a very good friend. Thanks Renate.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Expats in andalucia | Tagged , , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Morocco – feeling blue – but in a not so positive way!

Immediately after publishing my last post to my blog about our stay in Chefchauen in Morocco I became rather ill with a virus which laid me low for the remainder of my holiday.

A few more photos from Chefchauen
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We moved on to Tetuan for two days and to Tangier for further two days, most of which I spent in bed feeling very sorry for myself. I very rarely get ill and haven’t even had a sniffle for the last couple of years, so it seemed very ironic that during the only time that David and I have been away together for more than a weekend I spent most of it suffering.

However I did drag myself out of bed for a walk around the medina in Tetuan and for an excursion to the coastal town of Asilah from Tangier. Both of these experiences made me realise how very charming and friendly Chefchauen had been by comparison, with no hassle from anyone. By contrast the persistence of vendors and guides in Asilah was extremely trying and the suspicious glances in Tetuan made me feel a little uncomfortable.

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The exception was a stunningly beautiful little girl of about eight years who greeted us with a delightful smile and huge shining eyes with lashes that any female would dream of owning. She told us her name and asked ours, during which conversation she spoke words of English, Spanish and French. We parted company after a few moments, but after walking on for a few yards we heard running footsteps and giggles from behind, and turned to see our new friend dragging her playmate towards us for more introductions. Her innocence and trust were beguiling – what a great shame that she will probably grow suspicious as she gets older. Or maybe not – who knows – I only know that she made my day.

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The making of the super-duper Maggie shoulder cape

I wrote the post below eighteen months ago (February 2015, but didn’t publish it at the time because I hoped to develop the idea commercially. I had extended discussions with an equipment manufacturer, but the project didn’t ultimately come to fruition. I have recently been asked for instructions for the pack cape and have decided to make it public for anyone who is interested. I have since made pack cape mark II ( see here) from scratch by way of experiment and it turned out well, albeit a little heavier than the original. Let me know if you want any clarification…

I had it in mind to invent some sort of shoulder cape to protect the area where the shoulder straps of my backpack rest on my raincoat which has the effect of allowing rainwater to seep through my otherwise waterproof jacket.

Meanwhile I purchased a new rain cover for my pack, but inadvertently picked up the wrong size – 80 litres for my 35 litre pack.Rather than return the cover to the shop I decided to experiment with the materials I had to hand.

First I attached a split ring (key ring) to the bottom of the frame of my pack.

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I then attached carabiners to the compression straps at each side of the top of my pack

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Next stage was to thread the draw string toggle of the cover through the split ring to anchor it at the bottom of the pack.

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I then snipped through the drawstring hem at the opposite (top) end of the cover and cut through the drawstring cord.

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Next, I snipped a few stitches (but NOT through the fabric) of the drawstring hem at the point where the carabiners were fixed. This allowed me to pull the cord through the snipped stitches and tie a loop in the cord that would fix to the carabiners.

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Now the cover was firmly secured to the pack at three points.

I cut through the excess fabric at the top of the cover to the point where it needed to divide around my neck. You will likely need some assistance here to get the length of the cut correct. If it is too long then there is every chance that water will find it’s way between the cape and your jacket. If it is too short it may prove to be uncomfortable.

I thought about reinforcing the fabric at the end of the cut by gluing some tape over it, but didn’t get around to it and it did not seem to come under undue pressure and rip.

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I then did no more than attach a couple of pieces of Velcro to the front flaps to fasten the cape under my chin. And that was it really. Very ‘Heath Robinson’ but very functional. No leaky jacket and no flapping poncho.

Note also, that my waist strap is fastened through small holes that I cut in my jacket pockets. So making another area where there is no friction between straps and jacket.

When it stopped raining and I wanted to undo my jacket but not remove my pack, I could just unfasten the Velcro on the cape and tuck the flaps under the pack straps. Once I had fitted the SDMSC to my pack half way through my Camino Portuguese last year it rained for some part of every day, and it wasn’t necessary to remove the cape from the pack – it remained in place and I used the shoulder flaps if necessary and tucked them out of the way when they weren’t required.

It was an easy and inexpensive experiment for me. The pack cover cost only a few euros and the SDMSC was an incredible success.

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Incidentally, the photos were taken using my camera’s wifi remote control facility, via my iPad. Contrary to rumour, it is not the case that I am never seen without my iPad in my hand!

Posted in Camino assessments and reflections, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Preparations, Walking the walk | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Morocco – feeling blue – but in a very positive way

Having seen a ‘last minute’ holiday with a photography theme in Morocco advertised by a local travel agent at a very reasonable price, we decided to join the small group of spanish photography enthusiasts (including a professor of photography) for seven days at the beginning of February.

Our good friends joined the party and we travelled together to Tarifa on Saturday to stay the night, ready for a morning ferry to Tangiers. The weather had been stormy with heavy gusting winds for a few days and we heard that ferries hadn’t been operating from Tarifa on Saturday, so we hoped for the best for the following morning, which dawned bright and sunny, and thankfully very still. The wind had dropped completely and the sea looked calm. We met the other nine members of our group at the port and boarded the 10:00 am ferry and crossed close to the Straits of Gibraltar to North Africa. I have to say it was an absolute blessing to me that the stormy weather had subsided because I felt none too well with the deep swaying of the ferry on what appeared to be very still water. I was very quiet for the hour or so that we were on board and I was delighted when it was time to alight.

We were smoothly and efficiently greeted by our driver who escorted us to our mini bus and transported us through a stunning, green, mountainous landscape to the charming town of Chefchauen, which is situated at more or less the same height as our home in Canillas de Albaida at around 650 metres.

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The thirteen of us (lucky for us on this occasion because the group of four men and nine women are a delightful mix of ages and personalities) dragged our cases through the main square – oh how I hate the sound of wheely cases being pulled over cobbles, so much so that I carried mine, but it made no difference with twelve others rattling along. Our hotel is delightful, conveniently tucked away in a shady corner just off the square, and we settled ourselves into our pretty (but rather chilly) room before reforming our group to take a stroll around the town.

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The other members of the group consist of Santos, our photography proffesor, and seven of his (female) students from various different classes, one of whom is the travel agent who organised the trip plus her husband. So most people had not previously met, with the exception of Santos, who knew everyone except us four.

I have been delighted by the charm of this place, which rises steeply through narrow winding streets filled with colourful shops and stalls, with the backdrop of a soaring ridge of the Rif mountain range. It is quite similar in many ways to our own villages, with the big difference that at home Cómpeta and neighbouring Canillas de Albaida are known as white villages, whereas Chefchauen is famous for its blue washed properties. Every colour of blue from powder to deep aqua marine and every shade in between. It is stunning – a delight to the senses (so long as you like blue) and around every corner there is something to please the eye.

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I have only been to Morocco once previously, to Marrakech, many years ago with my daughter. The experience could not have been more different. There I felt quite intimidated by the vendors in the souk pressing us to buy their goods, in fact almost everyone we met was pushing their goods or services upon us and it was all quite wearing. Whereas here in Chefchauen the traders couldn’t be more laid back, no pressure at all, and in contrast it is a very relaxing environment. The food has been excellent and very inexpensive and the atmosphere totally charming. We are here for one and two half days (two nights) and I have been making the most of every minute, soaking up the atmosphere and taking dozens of photos.

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The spanish ladies are all serious amateur photographers with impressive EOS cameras and imposing lenses, whereas my point and shoot seems very much the poor relation, particularly with its gaping hole where the casing buckled when I fell and smashed it a few months ago, which I have covered up with sticking plaster to keep the dust out. (It reminds me a bit of Jack Duckworth’s specs for those of you familiar with Coronation Street of old). But I have to say, I am really rather pleased with my selection of photographs, although it is actually quite difficult to take a bad photo in such idyllic surroundings.

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From first light to sunset – what a very special day

My day started when I opend my eyes (quite late) and was greeted by this sight through my bedroom window – the first strike of the sun upon the snow covered peak of mount Maroma. I am treated to this view without even lifting my head from my pillow. It is priceless.

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It was a good omen for a very special day. The start to my 2015 camino! I am planning to walk the camino Mozarabe this year, from Málaga. And as I only live around 60 km from Málaga I have opted to start from my front door. I am not planning to walk this camino in a single outing, rather relish each stage over the next few months.

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So today I set off from home in the village of Canillas de Albaida to meet up with friends along the way until our band of five met with Renate, my Dutch friend who would lead us on a walk to the coast via the ‘La Corca’ area.

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Renate is going to walk 200 km with me along the first leg of the Mozarabe from Málaga to Córdoba. She has time restrictions and can only walk in mid March, which is a little early for me. So I am keeping an open mind as to what I do when I reach Córdoba. If the weather promises to be fair for a couple of weeks I shall probably continue as far as Mérida where the Mozarabe intersects with the Via de la Plata (the camino route from Seville), and then return home to complete the route later in the year.

Whereas if the weather is not favourable I shall return home with Renate from Córdoba and continue later in the year from this point.

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The camino Mozarabe also has starting points in Almeria and Granada which meet with the Málaga route just before reaching Córdoba and then continue in a north westerly direction to Merida.

So this was day one of the adventure for Renate and me, and we had the company of some great walking friends on this first leg.

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The day started with a rather blustery wind but once we started our descent into the valley we were protected by the hillsides and soon started stripping off layers of clothing. Roly had the company of Jack Russell Toby and both were, as usual, impeccably behaved. We made a good pace and hit the coast after I had been walking for four hours and we had another hour’s walk along the coast road to Algarrobo Costa where we were met by David and a friend of my walking pal to be driven back up the mountain (although not before a couple of refreshing beers overlooking the Mediterranean.

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Total distance for me was 26.3 km, a little longer for some and a little less for Renate. But we all felt suitably knackered at the end.

Next stage will be from Algarrobo to Rincon de la Victoria, and then from Rincon into Málaga.

The day had been very warm, probably reaching mid to high twenties centigrade – not bad for late January! We all thoroughly enjoyed the walk which was new to all of us except Renate.

Renate and I really felt we had started our camino, although we still have six weeks or so until set set off from Málaga. It was an excellent day. And to finish it off in a spectacular way, we had the most amazing view of the Rif mountains in North Africa, which are in the region of 180 km distant and can be seen on a clear day, and are an amazing sight at sunset. I think this was the clearest view I have ever seen. A perfect ending to a fabulous day.

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Edit: due to her busy life, it turned out that Renate was not able to join me on my walk from Malaga. In reality this was a good thing, because I didn’t really want to start walking in March, and in the meantime I found a wonderful walking partner via a pilgrim forum and we set off on 8 April.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe, Expats in andalucia | Tagged , , , , , | 34 Comments

2015 – bring it on

This is the first day I have woken up in Spain for a whole month, having spent four weeks in the UK helping out with the early arrival of my grand daughter. Of course I wouldn’t have missed that experience for the world, Sophia Alice is so very tiny and absolutely perfect; and I had a wonderful time playing with my grandson Mikey who insisted every morning (at about 7am!) that we spend the day in role-play, with him being daddy, me being Mikey and some bit of wardrobe flotsam taking the silent role of mummy. Great adventures were embarked upon by the intrepid duo (poor mummy was almost always left behind) with imaginary trips to all corners of his (almost) four year old experience.

1) Sophia at 24 hrs, 2) Mikey meets his sister for the first time, 3) Mikey plays the messenger in pre- school nativity, 4) Sophia sleeps in the hat I knitted for her father

1) Sophia at 24 hrs, 2) Mikey meets his sister for the first time, 3) Mikey plays the messenger in pre- school nativity, 4) Sophia sleeps in the hat I knitted for her father

But now I am home, after a brief interlude in West Sussex with our lovely friends, who took us on a short but spectacular walk towards the cliffs of the Seven Sisters.

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This morning I decided to put the ‘get fit and lose a shed-load of weight‘ regime into immediate action. So Roly and I set off for a shortish walk into the mountains of the natural park a few meters away from my door. It has been a beautiful bright day with blue sky and I was stripping off my jacket within five minutes of setting off.

Looking down on Canillas de Albaida

Looking down on Canillas de Albaida

Since the fire that many of you will have read about in my blog posts here, here and here, there has been a fair amount of activity on the mountain. All burned trees have been sawn down and a huge machine has dragged the fallen trunks to the edge of the track. Before this could be done, lots of new tracks had to be cut into the hillsides to provide access and the existing tracks had to be widened to allow access for the huge machine.

So now the hillsides are totally bare and the greenery that had begun to grow at the side of the tracks has been uprooted to make way for the machine. All is very bleak.

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However, on the upside the existing tracks have been transformed from uneven rocky paths that were difficult to walk or ride on, and are now even and sandy (until the rain washes the sand away). So Liana and I have had many wonderful gallops up the track for a good couple of kilometres, whereas before we could only trot and canter in a few places.

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But today I was using my own legs to carry me along, up the drive and into the park, where after about a kilometre we come to the dividing ridge between the areas unaffected/devastated by the fire. We live on the unaffected (Canillas de Albaida side) and there is no doubt when you enter the stark wasteland of the decimated area.

We continue upwards until we arrive at the fork where you can continue up to the left, ever higher, or down to the right. We go down and turn into the burned out olive groves behind the urbanisation Las Colmenillas, walk past the houses and down onto the circular road that runs high above the village of Cómpeta and then cut down onto the goat track and back towards Canillas and home.

This old olive tree looks totally destroyed by fire, but if you look closely you can see  a mass of new shoots at the base of the tree.

This old olive tree looks totally destroyed by fire, but if you look closely you can see a mass of new shoots at the base of the tree.

The local Spanish guys are busy preparing their huertas (allotments) for a winter planting. These small plots dotted around the villages always look spic and span and are tended with great care.

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When I reach home I discover from my ‘map my walk’ app that I have covered 5.99 km and have walked a completely circular route, just how I like it. This will be the first of many walks in 2015, building up strength for my next camino de Santiago which will commence possibly in March. But more of that in another post.

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David (and Maggie) versus Goliath

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I’ve been away for a very long time, leaving Spain for the UK on 2 December 2014 to help out with my beautiful premature granddaughter, and only returning today on 1 January 2015.

A lot of ‘stuff’ had accumulated during that time

  • Stuff that I had left behind on my previous visit in preparation for my return (sheepskin coat and boots)
  • Stuff that I had bought from my favourite shops (just a few items of clothing…..honestly! And some household stuff and knitting yarn)
  • Stuff that I was given for Christmas (my favourite perfume – thank you Rosie, and a beautiful bracelet from Ella)
  • And even some stuff that had never quite made it to Spain but would now be quite useful (fabric to make cute girlie baby clothes that I had been saving for many years)
  • And David who had joined me in the UK for Christmas also had more stuff to take home than he had arrived with.

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It was fairly obvious that all this extra stuff was not going to fit in our carry on cases, so I bit the bullet and paid £18 for a 20 kilo hold bag.

Now I didn’t have a bag that would hold 20 kilos of stuff, but we had two smaller spare bags that together totalled 20 kilos. And so we set off for Gatwick airport bright and early this morning (well, early anyway, it is January 1st after all), with two bags each.

We confidentially approached the baggage drop area and hefted the two bags onto the weighing belt. As expected they registered just shy of 20 kilos. But, as you may have guessed, there was a problem. The kind man behind the Easyjet desk informed me that the weight had to be presented in one bag, not two. Two bags would involve the payment of an additional £30. But he was helpful and suggested that we might go over to the bag wrapping stand and get the bags conjoined for £10.

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Over we trotted only to be told by the not do kind attendant that joining two bags in one wrap would involve two fees of £10, with no guarantee of a successful bonding due to the fact that both bags were soft bodied and different shapes.

We retreated to consider the situation. We didn’t want to pay the bolshy bloke on the wrapping machine for a job we weren’t confident would be accepted. And then I remembered that amongst the household ‘stuff’ in my bag were a couple of rolls of cling wrap. (Please note that cling wrap is available in Spain, but there was a good reason for me wanting this particular type – I won’t explain – you won’t be interested).

So we both removed our belts and tried to attach these two irregular shaped bags together and wrap them in domestic cling film. I have to say that the only success in our endeavours was to keep a few weary travellers amused for a while. The film was intended to wrap a pork chop, not join two cases in readiness for an adventure along the conveyor belts and thrown hither and thither by uncaring baggage loaders. So we resigned ourselves to paying the £30 charge for an extra bag (£18 if booked in advance) and stuffed the cling film back in the bag and rejoined the queue for the Easyjet check in.

Whilst we were inching forward ever closer to our unwanted expense, David hatched a cunning plan. How about if I checked in my bag as planned, and volunteered my carry on bag to go in the hold. This is usually an option (without charge) as there are always too many carry on bags for the amount of space in the overhead lockers. Meanwhile David would take the other two bags and wait for me, and then we would take one bag each as carry on.

Ha! We could get one over on the big guys – it just needed a bit of creative thinking.

Two bags were duly checked in for the price of one, I joined David, took one of his bags and rather smugly made our way to the boarding gate.

We were so close to winning the day, but hadn’t counted on an over-zealous, over-observant boarding gate clerk who saw on his screen that I had checked in my carry on bag, but was still in fact carrying on a bag. And guess what? The charge for the extra bag at the boarding gate was £45. Huh! So much for cunning plans!

Easyjet – 1 ………. David and Maggie – 0

Happy new year to one and all – I wish you health and happiness throughout 2015

Posted in A view of life, Expats in andalucia | Tagged , , | 12 Comments

Seasons greetings

Just a very quick post from a very sunny UK to wish all the lovely followers of my blog a very happy Christmas and a peaceful new year.

I have met so many fabulous new people through my blog and I really appreciate all the comments you have made throughout the year. During the last couple of weeks there have been quite a few new followers, and I would like to thank you for your support.

I have spent the last three weeks with my daughter and brand new grand daughter, Sophia Alice. Sophia arrived four weeks early so it was a bit of a rush to get over here from Spain – I had anticipated arriving today (Christmas Eve) together with David, who I have just picked up from the airport.

It has been a privilege to be here to welcome Sophia into the world. My time here has involved a great deal of role play, with me being Mikey and Mikey being Daddy. He never stops talking for a moment, unless he is asleep, and I have to say I have found the constant chatter rather exhausting, coming from such a quiet home life. But I wouldn’t have missed this time for the world.

Baby Sophia, just a few hours old, so tiny at 5 lbs 7 oz.

Baby Sophia, just a few hours old, so tiny at 5 lbs 7 oz.

Snuggled up in the blanket that I made for her

Snuggled up in the blanket that I made for her

The new year will see me walking much more to prepare for my next big adventure – walking the camino Mozarabe from Málaga. There are quite a few kilos that need to be shed and a healthy lifestyle to be resumed – the usual start to the new year then!

I have just received this lovely camino Christmas greeting from my pilgrim friend from Lisbon, Aurelio Simoes that I would like to share with pilgrims past and future and with all my friends, new and old. Thanks for your interest in my blog and I hope you stay on board for the next camino.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Camino Mozarabe | Tagged , | 20 Comments

Just one of those (excellent) days

Yesterday I took a rare trip down the mountain to the coast, with two main objectives (1) to look for some plants to put on one of the terraces that I rebuilt this year and (2) to visit the music venue ‘The Racingclub Axarquia’ to see my favourite local band Guiri.

We are still enjoying exceptionally good weather here in Andalucia (although there are rain storms promised tonight and tomorrow morning – bring it on – we can certainly do with the rain, I just wish it would come without the strong winds that are also forecast).

So, we gave Liana an early lunchtime snack and left an indignant Roly with some doggy treats and trundled down to the coast at Torrox and my favourite garden centre ‘Viveros Amberes’ which has been transformed into a very sophisticated establishment since I last visited a few months ago.

We pulled into the car park and right there and then I fell in love! I walked over and couldn’t resist putting out my hand and touching, not daring to think that I could possess such a thing of beauty. A little taller than me, I could only stand and admire the youthful curves and supreme elegance of my heart’s desire. I tried hard to concentrate on the job in hand and tore myself away to look around the many hundreds of beautiful plants vying for my attention, a huge array of poinsettias in many shades, awaiting new homes in time for Christmas, a swathe of my favourite cyclamen in all colours and sizes, countless ferns, pines, cacti and fruit trees. But my heart just wasn’t in it. There was only one thing that I was interested in and by the time I had done the rounds and returned to the entrance my mind was made up. Damn the expense, it was going to be mine. (Actually the expense was a lot less than I would have expected for such a beauty.)

The deal was done, my prize was rather unceremoniously bundled into the car (luckily our Renault Kangoo is very accommodating) and, with me grinning from ear to ear, we drove around the corner to the Racing Club. This music venue is in a strange situation on a main through road, and although we have passed it many times, we have never previously visited. There are so many opportunities for live music here in Cómpeta that there doesn’t seem much point in driving to the coast for it. But the pull of a visit to the garden centre and seeing my favourite band was enough to prize me off the mountain.

We were delighted to see some friends from Cómpeta sitting in the club when we arrived and then another couple of great chums arrived soon after – all six of us experiencing our first time at the venue – and all of us drawn by the promise of great music from a well known band.

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The event was set up on the terrace and even at the beginning of November I didn’t need to put on the denim jacket I had brought ‘just in case’. Though it seems this is the last weekend that will be hosted outside, next week the activities will be under cover. The place is only open at weekends, I’m not entirely sure of the setup but I think that on Saturdays there is a feature band and an open mike jamming session, and on Sundays the featured band plays alone. Hours are from 2pm, music starting at 3pm. We sampled the food on offer which was good, a selection of simple meat with chips dishes and some very tasty looking pizzas. After a while (and probably a drink or two) many of the audience took to the floor and danced the afternoon away to the great music belting out from the stage. It was a fabulous afternoon and I shall definitely be tempted off the maintain for a return visit.

Photo courtesy of Kenneth Kalstrup

Photo courtesy of Kenneth Kalstrup

And now, a day on, my feelings for my new love are still as strong as they were at first sight, and I just have to make a decision as to where to plant my beautiful new olive cloud tree, and then watch it grow. Of course it isn’t appropriate for the terrace that I went shopping for….so maybe I can combine another coastal sortie to the garden centre and catch another great band at the Racingclub Axarquia.

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Blood swept lands…….another perspective

I recently read a blog post by Sarah Shumate who volunteered to spend a day planting poppies at the Tower of London memorial to the British and colonial servicemen lost in WWI.

It’s an interesting account with some stunning photographs of the installation – well worth reading. Click on the link below.

THAT TIME WE PLANTED POPPIES AT THE TOWER OF LONDON

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Diagnosed by the Vet

Eczema is something new to me. I guess I even felt a bit smug that it wasn’t something that affected my family, neither myself and my siblings as children, nor either of my own children………until recently that is.

My grandson suffers from minor eczema in the usual places for young children, behind the knees and inner elbow creases, but my daughter manages it well by restricting the ‘products’ that she uses on his skin. She has become very aware of all the horrendous chemicals that are used in the manufacture of practically all personal and household products, including baby products and wet wipes.

In the past I had assumed that eczema was something that some unfortunate children suffered from but normally grew out of. But I was to get my cum-uppance in my mid-fifties when I developed an immensely itchy skin condition on the soles of my feet which persisted long enough for me to organise a visit to the doctor. It was diagnosed as dyshidrotic eczema where tiny blisters form under the skin which cause severe itching. I was prescribed steroid cream which didn’t really help and after some internet research I tried a couple of treatments including applying a cold compress of cotton wool soaked in vinegar, which certainly eased the itching but smelled pretty awful. Ridding myself of this uncomfortable condition was achieved over a very long time span of months, if not years, of plentiful moisturising and I found that Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream was most efficient (if rather expensive). Although I feel the condition could return at any time, it has not recurred and I continue to moisturise my feet very regularly.

About six months ago I developed a similar patch of itchy skin on the palm of my right hand, with the tell-tale pin point sized blisters under the skin. It came and went for a while and I was concerned that it would cause issues when I used my walking poles which can make my hands a bit sweaty. In the event the condition pretty much cleared up when I was walking my camino, but returned when I got home.

Due to friends (women of a similar age) with ongoing skin conditions and my daughter’s heightened awareness of chemicals in the products we use I thought long and hard about what I was using. I seem to be washing my hands almost constantly, what with my frequent visits to the stable, handling fresh meat twice a day for the dog, gardening and kitchen hygiene, so my first experiment was to just use hand soap on my fingers and rinse the rest of my hands with water only. But the condition took a turn for the worse and this past week has been very uncomfortable, with thickened dry skin in an area that covers a quarter of the palm.

My ‘solution-for-everything-skin-related‘ Eight Hour Cream has ceased to help and I was fairly certain that if I went to the doctor I would just be prescribed cortisone or steroid cream which I didn’t want to use. So I turned to the internet again.

I was fairly convinced that this was another case of dyshidrotic eczema. I wracked my brain to think of any lifestyle changes I had made around six months ago and it dawned on me that it was at this time that I started to eat porridge for breakfast, just a small portion made with water, a dash of milk and a half spoon of sugar. I turned to my friend google to ask whether oats can trigger eczema and found that indeed oats, dairy and unrefined sugar are all possible triggers, so that was the end of that breakfast choice (which I didn’t eat on camino). I also found an article by a guy who wrote that he had cut all chemicals from his skin care and applied aloe vera to his affected skin at very regular intervals. His condition disappeared within two weeks.

So first thing the next day I visited our new health shop in Cómpeta and purchased a bottle of 99% pure aloe vera and applied some immediately. It cooled and soothed my skin instantly, and I knew right away that this product was going to be my new best friend and constant companion. I went to join David for a coffee and found him sitting with our lovely friend Jens, who I never normally see by chance. He is a vet, although now mostly retired, and he was waiting for a patient to arrive, all the way from Seville – a dachshund with a back problem. While we were chatting I applied another helping of aloe to my hand and Jens took one look and said that he thought it was ringworm and advised applying iodine several times a day.

Having just googled ringworm, I am sticking with my self diagnosis of eczema, which is bad enough, but the images of ringworm look disgusting and I am definitely not comfortable to think that I might have that problem. However I didn’t see any harm in applying iodine so have done that three or four times a day, and a spot of aloe vera probably every fifteen minutes. I have avoided contact with chemicals to my hand, to the extent of wearing a washing-up glove in the shower and have purchased a couple of bars of natural soap as I couldn’t find a single shower product that didn’t contain Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, even in the health shop. I suggest you google Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and find out what we are putting on our skin and in our mouths day in, day out. The more you know, the more worrying it is.

What Is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate?
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (commonly known as SLS) is a widely used and inexpensive chemical found in many mainstream personal hygiene products such as shampoos, toothpastes, mouthwashes, bodywash, soaps, detergents, along with Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and Ammonium Laurel Sulfate (ALS).

My daughter no longer uses any products on her son, just water, and for her daughter, due to be born at the end of the year, she is abandoning the convenience of disposable nappies and store-bought wet wipes, and returning to the age-old terry towelling, albeit a rather updated model from the squares that her bottom was wrapped in as a baby. I am very proud of her for taking this route and very glad that she met a group of women at antenatal class during her first pregnancy who have inspired her to think this way.

Rosie has suffered more than her fair share of skin problems since she was a teenager, and until recently still suffered with spots on her face and back into her late twenties. However she has recently stopped using products on her very long, very thick and very gorgeous hair. And by products I mean everything – shampoo, conditioner, styling creams and sprays. She first attempted this earlier in the year and lasted about four weeks before giving in and going back to ‘normal’, but she did notice an improvement in her skin. And now she is about eight weeks into her second attempt and is feeling more comfortable with the process. She misses that ‘squeaky clean’ feel that a thorough shampoo gives, but her hair looks great with natural oils intact and her skin has never been better. And she is saving herself a fortune into the bargain!

Over the next few months I shall be restocking my bathroom cabinet with SLS-free products (although I’m not sure I could cope with giving up my hair products). And in the meantime I am on day five of my aloe vera treatment and my skin has improved enormously

– move over Elizabeth Arden, make room for my new best friend Vera!

As a post script….. I sent Rosie an email to check she was happy about what I had written and she responded as follows:
……Good blog post mum, glad your hand is getting better, the other nasty that is in a lot of stuff to look out for is parabens (google for details) again in most things in some form or another as a preservative. Picture below if you wanted to add it to show what 9 weeks of no hair products looks like, this is my hair completely natural no products and no heat! Definitely worth the few weeks of not very nice hair to get to this stage, it is so easy now.

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Escape from the mountain

I don’t get out much so it has truly been like a holiday to spend the night away from home. One of the prizes at the recent ‘Cómpeta Rocks On‘ extravaganza was a ‘radio experience’ that the winners did not want to take up, so it was auctioned off at a later date. David put in the winning bid and so we arranged a convenient date with the radio presenter and a hotel was booked as part of the prize. Liana and Roly went their separate ways for their own mini holidays for a couple of nights and Sheba was left to fend for herself.

On Thursday we drove down our winding mountain road and then for an hour or so west along the motorway until we reached the well known ritzy resort of Marbella.

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It’s many years since either of us visited this area and we were delighted to wander around the old quarter of the town with its charming narrow alleys, extravagant flowers spilling from every balcony and the endless bars and boutiques to be discovered in every direction. It was perfect weather for mooching, slightly overcast but warm, without too much heat from the sun.

First stop was chocolate and ‘small’ portion of churros, then a drink in the famous Plaza de Los Naranjos (orange square) before following the advice of a boutique owner and seeking out the delightful Bar Estrecho where we partook of a variety of excellent tapas and a glass of wine in the ridiculously narrow street where there was just room to site a single barrel for a table and a couple of stools to perch on.

We then headed towards the beach and drank a coffee on the edge of the sand. There weren’t many on the beach and the very posh straw parasols were shading empty sun loungers as we watched a couple of fishing boats returning with their catch.

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Late afternoon saw us driving 10 km further westwards to San Pedro de Alcántara to locate the radio station TRE (Talk Radio Europe) and check in at our hotel the Marbella Barceló where we were allocated a large room with veranda overlooking the pool terrace. We made our way down to the sea front for dinner and settled upon what turned out to be an excellent choice – the restaurant Nuevo Reino where we received impeccable service and fabulous food. It was then back to the hotel to get a few hours sleep before the alarm went off at 6:20 am to wake us in time to reach the radio station by 7:15 am.

We were welcomed to the TRE premises by presenter Hannah Murray who has worked at the radio station since 2005 and has been presenting the breakfast show for two years. She immediately put us at ease and explained what preparations she was making for her two hour show which starts at 8:00 am. On entering the broadcasting studio I was faced by rather more equipment than I witnessed at my last radio experience and Hannah took her seat in front of a bank of screens and gadgets and invited me to sit beside her to witness her juggling act. Between reporting on the weather and travel conditions for various regions, she runs challenges, welcomes telephone calls from listeners, has a section for ‘this day’ anniversaries, has regular guests to report on sport and finance and interviews people from different walks of life each day. Friday’s interview theme is people with interesting jobs and today she had a chat with art historian Kevin Mulvany who creates miniature buildings (for example Buckingham Palace and Hampton Court) with projects taking up to two years to complete. A very interesting interview.

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The minutes flew by and in no time it was my turn to put on the head phones and sit in front of the microphone and be interviewed by Hannah. I had asked her to let me know in advance what questions she would ask me so that I could prepare my responses, but she wanted a more spontaneous chat and as a result there are an embarrassing number of um’s and erm’s included in the interview, but overall I was quite pleased with it (you can listen on the link below). Hannah was very kind and totally professional and gave us a fabulous couple of hours.

After a breakfast coffee and toast we made our way back to Marbella old quarter so that I could check out all the shops that I missed yesterday. I normally find shopping in Spain totally uninspiring, but here the independent boutiques and one-off designer shops were a delight and, surprisingly, most were within my budget. After a couple of hours wandering the charming streets we made our way back to the scene of yesterday’s lunch for a couple of plates of tapas before wandering through the lush green park and down the Avenida del Mar which hosts ten Dali sculptures, and then took a turn around the marina to reward David for his incredible patience while I was shopping.

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We decided to stop off in Málaga and take a good look around the Alcazaba which I was really enjoying, so much so that I forgot to look where I was walking and stepped into a narrow gully twisting my foot and cutting and bruising my knee, and worse, smashing my camera which incredibly still works, but the case is so distorted that I don’t think it can last long before getting dust in the works. Anyhow I wanted to keep my foot moving so we carried on exploring the ruins for another hour or so and then hobbled back to the car.

Smashed camera and knee, both still working!

Smashed camera and knee, both still working!

We rounded off our ‘holiday’ by stopping off at Torre del Mar, still on the coast but only half an hour from home, to have a bite to eat at the lovely Italian restaurant ‘Pizzeria Italia’, where the food is great and the service is excellent and very friendly. We reached home at the end of a very long and very enjoyable day to be greeted by Sheba who seemed very happy to see us.

I would like to thank Debi Bond for organising our trip so efficiently. Incidentally the event ‘Cómpeta Rocks On’ also organised by Debi and her wonderful team of volunteers raised a total of 2,969€, which I believe was shared equally between CUDECA Cancer Care and Axarquia Animal Rescue.

And whilst on the subject of charitable giving, I don’t think I have reported on my blog that the amazing and generous people of Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida also contributed 375€ to sponsor my walk along the camino Portuguese, which was donated 75€ to Action for Animals and 300€ to CUDECA. A huge thank you to one and all.

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…….start walking!

imageIt’s about time I got my walking feet back on! I have hardly walked over the summer – it has just been so very hot here in southern Spain. I’ve probably only walked three or four times over the last couple of months and no more than 10km. But there is a four day walking festival commencing next week in Cómpeta and I want to take part in at least a couple of the walks. So some training is required.

Poor little Roly was a bit sulky this morning when he didn’t get his normal walk after stable duties. But as soon as I showed him my bum bag he knew he was in for a much better prospect and after jumping up and down in excitement, he positioned himself in the middle of the drive to await further developments.

Just after 9:00 am we set off for a round walk that takes us down to the old mill by the Roman bridge just outside Canillas de Albaida and then alongside the Rio Cájules which we have to cross via stepping stones at four places. On either side of the river are groves of orange, lemon and avocado trees.

As always, I took my camera, not expecting to come across any flower photo opportunities, but how wrong I was! Even after months without rain there were some beautiful wild flowers along the track and even those that had long since faded had transformed into quite fascinating seed heads. Poor Roly couldn’t quite make out why I kept stopping every few yards.

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It is a delightful walk. We take the very steep climb to the right of the valley, zig-zagging upwards through the pine covered slopes and reaching the olive groves towards the top of the climb where I see a new collection of bee hives which weren’t in evidence the last time I passed this way. There are about forty hives. A lot of hives must have been destroyed in the terrible fire a few months ago so I guess new sites have to be found to keep the honey production flowing. Any almonds that haven’t been harvested are ready to drop from the trees, and the olives are looking very plump although it is another three months before they are usually gathered in.

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Earlier in the walk I had passed a woman walking in the opposite direction and we stopped to chat. She said she was with a walking group, but due to ill-health was not able to tackle the more strenuous walks so was walking back to the village. As I walked on I could hear an occasional voice but couldn’t see anyone until I was at a good height and then I saw a group of about fifteen walkers on the other side of the valley, heading for Salares. Now that the weather is cooling, walking groups will become a regular sight on the mountain tracks. And hopefully my weekly walking group (of three) will get back into action pretty soon.

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After heading towards La Cueva de Agua (I know it’s there somewhere, but I have yet to discover exactly where!), we have a short break in the shade of my favourite cork oak trees where Roly eats his biscuits and some meat that he was too excited to bother with at breakfast time. And then we are heading ever downwards towards La Fabrica. I am wearing my Chaco sandals today. I purchased them over the internet for my Camino Frances last year, but on arrival I discovered that they were much too heavy to cart across Spain and bought some crocs instead. The Chacos appealed to me because the webbing straps are completely adjustable for a prefect fit, however the upper side of the sole is scored with trellis pattern (they are recommended for wearing in water and I presume these grooves allow water to escape – I have to say they are excellent in water, no slipping or sliding at all). But on the long descent to the Fabrica my feet began to get a bit tender where the soles were rubbing and it was fabulous to stand in the river for a while to cool the hot spots. I hadn’t worn them for this distance before, and will go back to wearing my boots for longer walks.

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From this point the walk took me back along the quiet road to Canillas and then back along the goat track to the bottom of my drive and the final steep climb home. It was a stunning day with a deep blue sky and white fluffy clouds, not too hot, probably around 25 degrees C, but I was walking in the shade quite a lot of the time. I hope to get in two or three more walks before the walking festival.

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A few stats for anyone interested – I set off from home at 655m, dropped to 493m at the river and climbed steadily to 910m at the start of the descent to the Fabrica which lies at 734m. My pace was slow, averaging at 12 minutes per km, ie 5 km per hour over 15.6 km.

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