Trepidatious traveller – camino blog | Camino de Santiago de Compostela – before, during and after

Assessment of clothes and gear

Posted on 16/06/2013 by magwood

This post is an assessment of the items that I took on my 2013 camino from the point of view of a trekking novice. I have since gained a little experience and have posted an assessment of the items I used on my 2014 camino here.

If you would like to see my 2013 packing list, detailing all items taken on my camino, with their respective weights, take a look here. Or if you want an exel file to edit with your own info, leave a comment with your email address and I will send you a copy.
My 2014 list can be seen here

For various reasons I had only a few days in which to buy most of my gear and with no prior experience of trekking I had to rely on research involving trawling the extremely helpful camino forums; on the help of sales assistants; and on instinct. I am largely very pleased with my choices.

Backpack – Osprey Atmos 35 litre
I chose this pack on recommendation from reports on the forums. It is probably a bit smaller than some would like and I found it easier to use with my sleeping bag strapped on the outside, which also helped it to balance on its base when not being worn. I particularly appreciated the mesh ventilation panel that holds the pack way from your body and allows an air flow. The pack is very light and once I got used to it, I found it very comfortable. I found the waist straps very annoying because they would always fold back on themselves so that I had to reach behind my back and under the pack to fish them out. Eventually I fixed the straps in a forward position with very lightweight cable ties. The pack showed no signs of wear after five solid weeks of use. If I’d had the experience that I now have, I would possibly have chosen differently, but it worked well enough.

Sleeping bag – Snugpak 7 degrees C
I chose a ‘mummy’ style sleeping bag because of weight issues. However I found this shape to be so restrictive that I would not use it again. There were many nights when it was not sufficiently warm and I had to use the blankets that were supplied in most albergues.
I also used a silk liner and a bed bug protection undersheet pre-treated with permethrin. We did not encounter any problems with bed bugs on our camino.

Boots – Mammut Atlas GTX Mid Walking Boots
I found it extremely difficult to find boots to fit me. I take a UK size 7 and was advised that I would need an 8 for trekking boots. However there were not many ladies’ boots available in the shops in a size 8. Many assistants tried to sell me men’s boots, but my feet are quite narrow and men’s boots were no good at all. These Mammut boots were the first ones (of dozens) that I tried that felt as though they fitted correctly. The vibram sole was extremely slip resistant, but the tread on the outside of the heels was completely worn down by the end of my journey. A thicker sole would have been more comfortable on the rough stoney ground. The gore-tex lining protected my feet from snow, deep mud and most rain. But on a couple of occasions when we were walking in hard rain all day my feet did get wet. Generally I was pleased with these boots and the uppers show no signs of wear at all. I think a pair of supportive in-soles would have made them more comfortable.

Walking poles – Pacer poles
I was amazed that I didn’t see any other pacer poles on the camino. I have never used trekking poles before but I certainly know the benefits of them now. The handles of the pacer poles are so comfortable that they felt like an extension of my hands. They always fell naturally into the desired position, without any effort on my part. I did have difficulty with the adjustable sections though. The length is adjusted by twisting the sections into place, but if my hands were sweaty I could not get sufficient grip to turn them. And once they were firmly in place I found it very difficult to free them. For me, this was a major problem and in the end I got a strong man to fix them at the correct height for walking on the level and then had to leave them unadjusted when walking up or down hill. However I used them every step of my journey and not only did they take a lot of strain from my joints, but also caused my hands not to swell, which I had found to be a big problem before I used the poles. (I have since been told by the suppliers that an air lock can cause the poles to lock up, and they should be taken to pieces from time to time. Since doing this, I have not had any further problems with them jamming.)

Rain jacket – North Face Venture Jacket (style A57Y)
Very lightweight, breathable, with long pit zips for ventilation. Should be waterproof and probably would be if worn without a pack. But carrying a pack somehow allows rain to penetrate and although I wasn’t soaked under the raincoat I was most definitely very damp. I read a lot of negative things about ponchos on the forums and I think they look absolutely ridiculous, but if I was to undertake a similar journey, I would definitely buy a lightweight poncho.

Trousers
I purchased two pairs of zip off pants, both in the sales. Again, I had no experience and didn’t really think beyond the fit. However I soon learned that the most important thing about walking trousers is the placement of the pockets. One pair had leg pockets at exactly the right level to be comfortably accessible, whereas the others were really awkward to get to. Needless to say, one pair was worn almost constantly and only when I had not been able to dry them did I resort to the others.

T-shirts
Two short sleeved and one long sleeve merino wool t-shirts. Again, bought in the sale for half price, but still very expensive. I only wore the long sleeve shirt once or twice during the day, although I did sleep in it on cold nights. They were great, could be worn for more than one day without getting smelly, washed well and were ok in the tumble dryer, although the instructions said not to dry in this way. If the weather had been any warmer I would have needed to walk in a sleeveless top.

Socks
Two pairs mid weight, two pairs liner socks, and one pair 1000 mile socks, all high percentage merino wool. Wore two pairs of socks (together) for the first couple of weeks but still got blisters on my heels. Eventually wore just one pair of socks and found this to be more comfortable and no blisters, but my feet had probably hardened up by then anyway.

Duck down body warmer – Rab
Very light weight and comfortable to wear. However duck down was not very practical as it did not wick moisture. However it dried very quickly and would pack down to almost nothing. I generally love body warmers and wear them a lot in normal life, but I would not take a feather item on a similar journey.

Fleece
I bought a cheap fleece, but in training found that the sleeves were too tight to pull up when I got warm. I decided to cut off the sleeves and use those only. I found this a very practical solution. Every morning I would put on the sleeves, tucked inside my t-shirt sleeves and under my bra straps to secure them. When I warmed up I could just pull the sleeves off without having to remove my pack. This probably sounds a bit daft to most people, but it really worked for me and I was very pleased with my invention. Most mornings started with fleece sleeves, body warmer and jacket, then as I warmed up, off came the jacket, then a bit later the sleeves and finally the body warmer. (Have since discovered cyclists’ arm warmers and will be purchasing a pair for my next camino)

Underwear
2 x everyday bras
I found some merino wool pants sold by a UK company called Finisterre. They were very comfortable and washed and dried easily.
Long johns, synthetic fibre. Wore a couple of times under walking trousers on particularly cold days, and often to sleep in.

Accessories
Gloves – I took fleece gloves and thin nylon liners. I used both a lot, as it could be quite chilly in the mornings, and because I was using poles, my hands were exposed to the elements at all times.

Buff ‘infinity’ – I took a long tubular scarf that protected my neck from the sun and the cold, and was particularly good wrapped around my head and neck in strong winds. I also wore it a lot in the evenings. It was very useful.

Visor – my home-made visor was made with the peak from a baseball cap and a section of a standard buff (BUFF®, a tube of seamless microfibre material, multifunctional headwear ideal for many activities. can be worn as a neckwarmer, headband, wristband, facemask, hairband, balaclava, scarf, scrunchie, bandana). I wore it every day for walking. It kept my hair out of my face and protected me from sun and rain and I wouldn’t have wanted to be without it.

Bum bag – leather waist bag that carried endless items I wanted to hand, and also my money and documents. I made a secondary safety clasp so that if the clip came undone (as it did a couple of times) it remained securely in place. It was easy to pick up and take with me in the evenings or when visiting the loo in the albergues. Another item that was indispensable.

Relaxing clothes
A silk skirt that weighed practically nothing and packed into a tiny ball.
Cashmere cardigan, light weight and practical.
Cotton T-shirt that I didn’t wear very much
2x cotton vest tops which I wore a lot, both in the evenings and as sleep wear
Lightweight cargo pants, put in as an extra at the very last minute and worn a great deal
Footless tights
1x pair underwear
Pair of ‘pretty’ crocs

I didn’t have warm enough relaxing clothes and often wore my walking t-shirts in the evening. My crocs looked nice with my skirt but rather silly with socks. However ugly normal crocs are, they would have been much more practical.

Technology
iPad mini – this is a fabulous piece of technology, so light in comparison to the full size version. I used it as a camera, a photo editor, for skyping, for writing my blog and posting it, for emails and Facebook, and as a book reader, I made a carry case that attached to my bum bag and I was able to access it very quickly and conveniently whenever I wanted to take a photo.

iPhone – used for phone calls and viber and for listening to music.

And finally…..
I am amending this post because I have realised that I failed to comment on the most important item of equipment that I took on my camino – my body!

I am on the verge of being 60 (just a week hence) and I am certainly aware of a few creaks and aches, particularly after a session of gardening, but I rarely have any problems that a good walk will not ease. I have remained vaguely fit because of the physical exercise necessary to look after and exercise a horse, and because I walk my dog very morning, but until I commenced training for my camino I had never done any serious trekking.

I commenced my practice walks at 7km, next day 12, and the next 17. The following week I walked 19km, 20 and 23. I gradually introduced my new boots, walking poles and backpack. I finally reached my goal of 30+km shortly before departure for my camino. But no amount of training can prepare you for walking between 20-35km every day, for weeks on end.

The the first week I could barely shuffle along at the end of the day and all my joints and muscles seemed to be aching to extreme, but between weeks 2 &.3 it gradually became a little easier and everything seemed to fit more comfortably. Part of my problem with stiffness was because I did not stretch at the end of the day’s walk. There are many simple and gentle stretches that will ease aches and pains – as you would do at the end of an exercise class. I shall make a concerted effort to stretch each day on my next camino and hopefully will notice the difference.

The human body is an incredible piece of equipment, ever ready to adapt to whatever challenge we throw at it. And then of course there is the mind – and how that broadens to encompass all it encounters, strange and uncomfortable situations, disturbed nights, conversing with new people and coping with the unknown and unexpected.

My parents didn’t look after their bodies. They smoked and took almost no exercise. They had very active minds, but very idle bodies. And they both suffered physical difficulties in later years. I will try my utmost to look after my body as I get older. I find it amazing that it carried me almost 1,000km during my camino Frances and I would like to think that I will give it the respect it deserves in years to come, by keeping fit and active. And once again, I offer my deep and sincere thanks to Ella for getting me up out of my chair and onto my feet, pushing my boundaries with very step.

Posted in Camino assessments and reflections, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | Tagged Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, gear assessment, packing list | 12 Comments

Getting back to normal, 13 June 2013

Posted on 13/06/2013 by magwood

So life is just about back to normal.

It took longer than it should have because, after being home for a week, two things interrupted ‘normal’.

On the Sunday afternoon we had been to see one of our favourite bands – Guiri – and on returning home I had a call from Carol, the lovely lady who runs the local garden club, asking if I would fill the gap left by the speaker who could not attend the next meeting due to a car accident.

I’m sure you are aware of the maxim ‘put your brain into gear before engaging your mouth’. Well, my brain stalled, and before I could control my tongue I heard myself saying yes.

Of course, this could have had something to do with the several glasses of wine that I had consumed during the afternoon. In fact I am positive that it was entirely due to the wine because I had just agreed to speak in public for the first time, at an event that was only eight days away, when my daughter Rosie, her partner Mike, her Dad and my gorgeous grandson were arriving the next day and staying for a week.

Oh yes, and this was compounded by our car having an argument with a lorry on Monday morning and losing. The front end and light unit were destroyed and I needed the car in the evening to collect my family from the airport. Oh, and then discovering that the car seat we had arranged to hire was too small for Mikey, and I had to buy one locally.

Amazingly everything was sorted in time, thanks to ‘La Boutique’ in Cómpeta I was able to purchase the car seat that Rosie wanted for her son, and David arranged a temporary repair on the car so that I could legally drive to the airport.

Of course I was absolutely delighted to have my family visit, the only problem was that I wanted to spend as much time as possible with them, which left little time to prepare my presentation. The week was a blur of bbq’s, picnic at La Fabrica (thanks Janice for organising and everyone for joining us), visit to the beach, lots of eating out and a truly fabulous time with my wonderful family.

So then I just had to work out how to prepare a presentation, using a selection of the hundreds of photos I had taken during my camino, and decide on the words I wanted to say to convey the amazing journey that Ella and I had undertaken.

After a quick google search I decided to use Microsoft Photo Story, a free piece of software that was simple and easy to master. Now I just had to write the accompanying words and fit them to the photos. I grabbed every moment that I wasn’t with my family, and finally finished to my satisfaction (more or less) at 3:00 am on Tuesday morning, ready for the presentation at 11:00 am that same day.

There was a respectable turnout of both garden club members and others and it all seemed to go rather well. I had my head down in my notes way too much, and I think I would be more confident in talking ‘off the cuff’ if I was to do it again. All in all I was pleased that I had done it, and if I had had more time to prepare I would probably still have been up until the early hours of the morning of the presentation.

I was able to announce that David had collected 820 euros in sponsorship from the marvellous people of Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida, with help from Oscar from Taberna de Oscar and Sergio from La Casona who both contributed a meal for two to be raffled. This money will be passed to the charity Cudeca Foundation, which operates a cancer hospice for residents of Málaga province, financed entirely by donations, 90% of which come from the public.

David worked really hard, accosting the unsuspecting souls of the villages, and people have been astonishingly generous with several donations of 50 euros and many of 20 or 25. And there are plenty of other charitable events calling upon the generosity of locals, raising money for the same charity, also for the poor of the villages, and for animal charities. So once again, a huge thank you to one and all.

I, on the other hand, have not done very well with raising funds from my UK friends and family. Solely I am sure, because I haven’t mentioned it sufficiently. If anyone would like to make a donation to Macmillan Cancer Support they can do so by visiting the ‘Just Giving’ website.

I have set up a donation page at http://www.justgiving.com/Magwood, or if the link doesn’t work, then google ‘Just Giving’ and near the top of the page is a search box for ‘friend’s name’, type ‘magwood’ here and my page should be at the top of the list.

Click on ‘Maggie’s page’ and in the top section there is a button to click if you wish to donate.

I don’t expect to raise anywhere near as much as we have done here in Spain, but it would be great if I could increase it from £80, where it stands at the moment. The Just Giving site is used by most charities because it is so easy for individuals to make donations. The entire donation goes to the chosen charity within a few days. Just Giving claim gift aid on donations. The charity pays a fee. All profits are re-invested into ‘technology and innovation’. See here http://www.justgiving.com/en/about-us/how-justgiving-works.

And just to add to the stress of the week, on Saturday night we returned home after an evening out, to find that we had suffered a visit from our local thief. One of very many over the last five years. He entered through a small bathroom window, the only window without security bars (although it has them now!). The thief is called David, he lives in Canillas, and he suffers with ‘mental issues’. He also drives everyone in the area to distraction by his frequent visits. It seems the police can do nothing because of his mental status. But in fact he is very wily. He takes odd things and sometimes even returns them later. He also occasionally leaves things he has taken from elsewhere. He left a boxed silver bangle in our garage a few years ago. If anyone recognises it, please let me know.

On Saturday night he just took sterling, £60 that I had in my purse and £45 that David had in a drawer. Right next to my handbag where he found my purse was the carrier bag in which David had a considerable amount of sponsorship money, totally untouched. Also left in place were an ipad, mini ipad, laptop, printer, iPhone and another mobile phone.

He has caused us, and many others, so much trouble and stress over the years. I went to his house on Sunday morning and spoke to his mother, but from what we understand the whole family are involved in some way or another. We went to the Guardia Civil this morning to denounce him. But I suspect nothing will be done. They are sympathetic but their hands are tied. They don’t have a ‘crime scene’ department and do not take fingerprints for ‘small crimes’.

I am not at all intimidated by this thief, who is in his thirties. A couple of years ago I just stood in front of him and took his photo. His appearance varies from time to time – with or without specs, with or without facial hair – but almost always with a back pack and he always operates at night or very early morning.

Please, if anyone has been the subject of his activities, take the time to go to the Guardia Civil in Cómpeta and make a denuncia against him, and then take a copy to the mayor of Canillas. We all need to make the effort to put a stop to his activities.

Rant over. Apologies. It is just a shame that this has to be included under the heading ‘back to normal’!

I was very pleased when my friend Pepe turned up yesterday morning. It is ages since he called round to ride together and as I was already halfway through preparing Liana for a ride, his timing was perfect

Summer has truly arrived this week with temperatures well into the thirties. I don’t know how long I can wait before turning on the AC, but if it continues like this, it won’t be long.

I am planning to write a couple of posts summarising the camino, reflecting on the experience and rating my gear. I most definitely don’t have the discipline that I had on the camino to post regularly, but I hope to retrospectively tell the story of last year’s trip to the Far East and maybe the odd tale of life in the campo of Canillas.

Posted in A view of life | 4 Comments

Back home, 26 – 28 May 2013

Posted on 05/06/2013 by magwood

It as very late Saturday night/Sunday morning when David and I arrived back in Canillas. The only animal at home was Sheba, our beautiful Siamese-looking cat who is actually just a moggie. I called her but she must have been out on her hunting rounds because there was no response.

It felt good to finally be home and David, as always, had made sure the house was spotless for my return. I soon fell asleep but was rudely awoken when my Sheba jumped onto my chest to claim some homecoming attention. She is a very strong and determined cat and unless you completely hide yourself under the covers, there is no escaping her demands for scratching and stroking. I was only too pleased to oblige on this occasion and she soon settled to peacefully purr in my ear. In comparison to all the snoring I’d been subjected to over the last five weeks this was like being sung a lullaby and I was soon asleep again.

In the morning I was anxious to collect the next absent animal as soon as reasonable, and so picked up Roly fairly early from the kind couple who had looked after him for a few days. He had been happy in his temporary home with a playmate of the same size but was obviously very pleased to jump in the car and return home. So now the house felt complete with all the rightful inhabitants in place – just the empty stable to accommodate now.

My garden is an absolute riot – of colour and of weeds. David doesn’t “do” gardening and there has been a fair amount of rain whilst I have been away so the weeds are thigh high even where I completely cleared them before I left. Oh well, I shall have plenty to keep me busy for a while.

My great friend Helen has been looking after Liana for the last week and she soon settled in and made friends with Blossom the one eyed pony and the young grey horse that is kept on Helen’s land. I hope she will want to come home after enjoying the company of others and having plenty of space to roam in. We arrange to meet Helen on Tuesday morning, half way between Sedella and Canillas so that she and I will each have a ride of just over an hour. It’s good to be on board again and we take a steady ride down into the valley and back up into the village where we stop off at Ramon’s bar for a quick drink before returning home.

The minute she is untacked my clever horse walks into her stable and lets me know she needs a pee, so I quickly grab the bucket for her to fill. I taught her to do this soon after she initially came to live here and it makes such a saving of her bedding. Horses prefer to pee somewhere that won’t cause any splashing on their legs, and if they have access to a stable with absorbent bedding they will usually choose to pee there. When we first kept her here I would shut her down on the lower part of our land in the afternoons amongst the pine trees where it is much cooler. When I opened the gate she would charge up the track to her stable and immediately do a huge pee in her bed. So instead of letting her gallop up the track, I put on a halter and led her to the stable and when she peed I would catch it in a bucket and give her a treat for good behaviour. This worked well, kept the stable clean and saved on bedding, and of course she loved the treats.

After a while I became aware that she was calling more than usual and it dawned on me that she might be trying to tell me something. So the next time she called I went out to her and she walked straight into the stable and got into position for a pee, whereby I quickly grabbed the bucket and, hey presto, my horse was telling me when she wanted to pee. Now, I expect this is much more regularly than she would normally go, but of course there are treats involved, and it didn’t take her long to work out that a pee in the bucket equalled something tasty to eat. And so it has continued for two years – she successfully trained me to give her treats. Very clever! And having not done it for over a week whilst at Helen’s, she obviously thought it was high time that the treats started up again. She always pees in her stable during the night, but if we are observant that will be the only time that she ‘wets the bed’. The stable doesn’t smell and we don’t waste bedding. A win-win scenario.

So now the last piece of my domestic jigsaw puzzle is in place and all is back to normal.

Posted in A view of life | 2 Comments

Life after the camino, (falling in love with Santiago) 24 and 25 May 2013

Posted on 26/05/2013 by magwood

David arrived at about 10pm last night (Thursday) and after dumping his bag at the hotel we went towards the old town for a ‘welcome to Santiago’ drink. The next morning we decided against breakfast in the hotel and I showed David the approach to the city that pilgrims follow towards the cathedral. After admiring the beautiful cathedral square we found a cafe in a lovely old building for breakfast, and then visited the museum of the city, where there were very intricate models of the old city and the cathedral.

The whole of the ancient city is pedestrianised, apart from the odd delivery vehicle, taxis and police cars, so there is a very leisurely feel to the place and although it is extremely busy with tourists there are no vehicles to dodge.

We have discovered that the botafumeiro will not be swinging at the pilgrims’ mass at noon today, but that it will be used after the 7:30pm mass this evening, so we decide that we will attend the later ‘performance’.

The square in front of the cathedral is huge and devoid of commercialisation, no bars, no shops just a vast space full of people looking up in awe at the surrounding buildings. Because of its history as a destination for pilgrims since medieval times the old city is full of ancient monasteries, convents and hospitals, many now converted to hotels, university buildings, schools, local authority offices and museums. The whole of one side of the cathedral square is taken up by a parador in the building of the royal hospital dating back to 1499 and suggested to be ‘the oldest hotel in the world’. We walk in to have a look around and stop for a drink in the bar. I notice a door in the corner and find that it leads to an outside terrace, tucked right up in the corner of the main square, quite hidden away but with a real vantage point to view all that is going on. We move outside and have a couple more drinks to while away the time in the lovely sunshine. When we manage to tear ourselves away from the parador terrace we mooch around the narrow streets deciding where we shall eat lunch.

This choice is entirely governed by my ‘scallop-fest’, which David is very keen to indulge in as he is also rather fond of them. We decide to revisit the scene of my first encounter with the shell fish, but although they are good, they are a little over-cooked. Maybe that will cure me of my lust for zamburiñas for the time being.

In the afternoon we seek out a park that I have been told has wonderful views towards the cathedral spires. After taking a very round-about route, I realise it is the same park that I visited the day before and could have been reached much more directly, but never mind, it was fun to discover some new streets. We climb to the top of the park where we expect to see the stunning views, but everything in the direction of the cathedral is hidden by the leaves on the trees. I wonder if the view is only available in the winter months and we turn and walk back down, when suddenly at a lower level, we can see what all the fuss is about.

We return to the hotel to change into warmer clothes and set off once again to the cathedral for the mass. We arrive in good time to find seats where I think we will have a good vantage point and the botafumeiro will soar immediately above our heads. As a ‘heathen’ I am disappointed by the mass, no singing as in the pilgrims’ mass, in fact all very business-like. It is over relatively quickly and then the incense burner is hauled upward by the six red-cloaked attendants, and as they expertly pull on the ropes it starts to swing, gaining incredible height and swinging in a huge arc above us, billowing out incense as it passes. At the same time the organ starts up and the nun with the magic voice starts to sing. I filmed it for a while and then just turned the video off because I wanted to properly enjoy the experience to the full. The music and the splendour are truly fabulous.

After the service we find a cosy bar for a light supper and then return to the hotel.

David wants breakfast in the hotel this morning (Saturday), before checking out. Luckily we can leave our bags there for the day. The staff at the hotel have been very friendly and helpful and the room has been impeccably cleaned every day. Although it doesn’t have much character, we would not fault it at all.

We wandered through the food market which is very close to the hotel. It is a pity that Ella didn’t have time to discover this market because she is passionate about food and would have loved to see all the goods on show.

I remember being told in the cathedral office that it is possible to take a rooftop tour. So we book a tour for mid-day and mosey over to the corner of the square to while away half an hour or so until noon. But to our dismay the pardor terrace is not in use and the door to the bar is locked. Unperturbed, David walks to the main entrance and through to the bar and asks the attendant if he will serve us drinks on the terrace. “No” is the response, in the usual brusque no-nonsense Spanish way. So David orders the drinks which the bar tender insists are delivered to a table in the lounge where David must sit. Whereupon David picks up the cups of hot chocolate and carries them through reception, out of the main entrance (where a wedding party are arriving) and the fifty metres or so to the terrace where I am waiting. Some people just don’t take “no” for an answer – thank goodness!

Our tour coincides with the start of the pilgrims’ mass and as we walk into the cathedral to access the tower steps the ‘wonder nun’ breaks into song and David is mesmerised and wants to stay for the service. I persuade him to join the tour and assure him that the service will still be going on when we have finished the tour, as it lasted for an hour and three quarters when I attended it and the tour is only for one hour. He hesitatingly follows and after a few stops for explanations of various objects (in very fast Spanish that I cannot understand very well) we reach the roof. I have seen from aerial photos and from models that the roof is in the shape of a cross and is grey in colour.

What I had not realised is that this grey area is made of slabs of stone in steps up to the apex. The minute I exit onto the roof I feel like a child in a toy shop. I am free to wander at will around this huge area of rooftop, up and down the steps, looking over parapets down onto the square below. I absolutely loved it. This is one of the great things about the Spanish – you are allowed to do things that are potentially a bit dangeous and use your common sense to look after yourself. In the UK the health and safety police would ban anything of the sort.

I was taken back to childhood again, when I lived in Tewkesbury between the age of 8 and 14. I went to a senior school that was connected to Tewkesbury Abbey and we were allowed (in the good old days before the damned health and safety police were invented) to have access to the tower roof. It was tiny in comparison to what I was experiencing today, but I remember finding it very exciting.

I leave the guided group and explore on my own, up and down the steps of all the aspects, seeing all the statues and spires from a different angle, and I really am like a child in my enjoyment, clicking away with my camera and ipad, totally lost in the moment.

I peer through a dirty window of a dome and can vaguely see some sculptures but when I put my ipad to the window it somehow lights up the scene inside and I realise I am looking down on all the finery that rises above the altar and the golden statue of Saint James.

All too soon (although we must have been on the roof for at least forty-five minutes) we are ushered back inside and as we emerge onto the gallery above the cathedral floor, the botafumeiro is in action again and wonder-nun is singing her special song, and we get to see it from yet another angle.

If I seem irreverent in my description, please believe that I have the greatest respect for everything that I witnessed in the cathedral of Santiago. It is a most special place and if you ever get the opportunity to attend the pilgrims’ mass, please go along and you will absolutely know what I mean.

We sat quietly for a while before leaving the cathedral via the shop where I bought a mug with, of course, a botafumeiro print, and then visited a cafe at the rear of the church and contemplated our visit. We both absolutely love this place, the inner city is ancient and beautiful and full of character. It is a place to visit where you don’t need to rush around making sure you see this and that. It is a totally leisurely place meant for strolling, eating and drinking and admiring the architecture. I would highly recommend Santiago as a city for a short break, and it is so cheap to fly from Málaga that it certainly won’t break the bank.

We took one last stroll to the park and could hear some chanting and drumming so went to investigate. We came across a group performing what we discovered to be Capoeira, a Brazilian martial art incorporating elements of dance and music, developed by slaves in the 16th century. It was very entertaining for half and hour in the sunshine. Google it – it is very interesting.

The time soon came to return to the hotel, collect our bags and catch the bus to the airport. As we took off the sun was setting in the distance and halfway through the flight I looked out of the window and saw the full moon shining below us. It was stunning. I had never looked down on the moon before. A perfect end to a fabulous few days.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | 7 Comments

Life after the camino, 23 May 2013

Posted on 23/05/2013 by magwood

This morning I fiound a lovely short cut to the inner city through a food market, full of meat, fish and fruit stalls. What a pity I haven’t got access to a kitchen – it all looks fabulously fresh.

I made my way back to the same cafe terrace as yesterday and sit In the late morning sunshine ‘eating’ a hot chocolate, and I suddenly realise the attraction. It reminds me of long-ago home. When I was a child my mother would serve an instant chocolate dessert and throw a bit of desiccated coconut into it. We called it ‘choc slosh’ and I loved it. If only I had some coconut now I could recreate the memory. I have often been reminded of this dish by smell but never before by taste.

A lovely old guy walks by the bar and stops to feed the pigeons – he obviously does this on a regular basis.

I treat myself to an extravagant lunch of scallops (zamburiñas), which I absolutely love but strangely have never seen served in our area of Spain. I also had them last night, and might well have them again tomorrow. I don’t believe in the saying “too much of a good thing”.

This ancient city is definitely beginning to grow on me as it becomes more familiar. I can easily find my way around the narrow streets now and plot new short cuts. I haven’t visited any of the museums yet as I will do that with David over the next couple of days.

During the late afternoon I went back to my sheltered spot in the park. I found a new use for my sleeping bag and placed it on the grass to lie on – so lucky that I didnt chuck it away in celebration at not having to sleep in it again. I am hoping that I can catch some sun to diminish the rather unsightly tide marks on my legs and arms – a pilgrim status symbol that I would much rather be without! I had just decided that I had had enough and began collecting my stuff together when I heard some giggling from behind a wall, luckily quite a distance away. The next moment I was being bombarded with water bombs amid gales of laughter. Luckily I was just out of range for a direct hit, although in the style of the dambusters I received a certain amount of bouncing spray. I’m glad to say that it didn’t take me long to see the funny side of it and strolled off with a bit of a giggle myself (although if I had received a direct hit I may well have felt differently!)

So now I’m waiting for David to arrive in an hour or so, and my solitary confinement will be at an end.

Posted in A view of life, Camino de Santiago de Compostela | 6 Comments

Life after the camino, 22 May 2013

Posted on 22/05/2013 by magwood

Yesterday dawned dull and cloudy so we decided to get the 12 noon bus back to Santiago. Before leaving, Ella and I took a trip back to the long beach at the entrance to Finisterre so that she could collect a few keepsake shells.

En-route we came across the German woman we first met weeks ago and have bumped into a few times along the way. Her husband had come to meet her and they were enjoying just hanging out. She didn’t speak any English and Ella has only a little German, but it never stopped us conversing every time we met. It was good to see her again.

At the bus stop we saw Derk, the Belgian guy that Ella cooked for one night, who we saw on and off for a couple of days and then not again until today.

The bus journey seemed interminable, and lasted three hours. It occurred to me that I had not been on any form of transport for over five weeks, probably the longest period in my life. My father was a sales rep when I was born and we always had a car. I can’t imagine any other circumstance in my life when this might happen again.

It took us a while to track down the hotel that David had booked but when we arrived we revelled in the luxury of space, efficient bathroom with soft towels, and lovely crisp bed linen.

Ella made the most of the facilities while I went out to wander in the city. I bought a pair of jeans so that I could keep warm in the evening and stopped in a cafe famed for its handmade chocolate and churros. The chocolate was thick enough to stand a spoon in and the churros were fresh and crisp. I couldn’t finish it all but thoroughly enjoyed what I did.

We had our final meal together before returning to the hotel for our last night.

We got up early this morning and I walked with Ella to the airport bus stop not far away. And after a few minutes’ wait, Ella was gone. That was it – all done and dusted. The most amazing five weeks had come to an end.

Ella is about to embark on a new stage in her life. After spending only one day in London, meeting with some good friends and collecting her belongings, she will be boarding a train to Leeds tomorrow, where she has never previously visited. She has job interviews lined up and properties to view. I can’t imagine taking such a huge step into the unknown, but I know she will work very hard to make a success of her new life and I wish her lots of good experiences and happiness in the coming weeks, months and years. She is a very brave young woman and I love her very much. I would never have embarked upon my recent adventures to the Far East and walking the camino if she hadn’t asked me to join her and I thank her with all my heart for giving me the opportunity to step outside my comfort zone.

So now I am alone until David arrives tomorrow evening to spend a couple of days together in Santiago.

I left the hotel to find the post office in order to send my walking poles home, as they are not allowed in carry on baggage. The kind man at the correos used a bit of force and a lot of sticky tape to make them fit into a box that is a bit too small, and then I went to the cathedral for the pilgrims’ mass. I arrived about 30 minutes early but still the pews are full and I finally found a place to squeeze into.

More and more people piled into the church and lined the aisles in all directions. When the mass commenced it was lead by a nun with a most beautiful voice which became hauntingly angelic when she sang many psalms and hymns. A list was read out giving the numbers of pilgrims that registered their arrival in the pilgrims’ office the day before, stating details of their country of origin and their starting point. I didn’t understand a word of the service and have very little interest in religion, but I was transfixed and enthralled by the beauty and grandeur of the occasion. Some priests became involved towards the end of the service and after the wafers were given to those that desired them it became apparent that the botafumeiro was going to be launched. This does not happen vey often apparently and I wasn’t expecting it, so I was utterly delighted to be present as it flew above our heads with great momentum. Here is a description of the botafumeiro from Wikipedia:

…….The Botafumeiro is a famous thurible found in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. Incense is burned in this swinging metal container, or “incensory”. The name “Botafumeiro” means “smoke expeller” in Galician.

The Botafumeiro is suspended from a pulley mechanism in the dome on the roof of the church . The current pulley mechanism was installed in 1604.

The present Botafumeiro is made of an alloy of brass and bronze and is plated by a very thin 20 micrometre layer of silver, created by the gold and silversmith José Losada in 1851. It has a golden sheen.

The Santiago de Compostela Botafumeiro is one of the largest censers in the world, weighing 80 kg and measuring 1.60 m in height. It is normally on exhibition in the library of the cathedral, but during certain important religious occasions it is brought to the floor of the cathedral and attached to ropes hung from the pulley mechanism.

Charcoal and incense are added and the censer is pushed initially to start its motion. Eight red-robed tiraboleiros pull the ropes, producing increasingly large oscillations. The thurible’s swings almost reach the ceiling of the transept and can reach speeds of 68 km/h as it dispenses thick clouds of incense.

At the top of the swing, the Botafumeiro reaches heights of 21 meters. It swings in a 65 meter arc between the Azabachería and Praterias doorways at the ends of the transept. The maximum angle achieved is about 82°. The maximum can be reached after about 17 cycles, and requires about 80 seconds of swinging.

It costs about 300€ for each thurible “performance” at the cathedral. Although this is expensive, the swinging of the thurible is very popular with pilgrims, tourists and visitors.

The Botafumeiro produces large volumes of smoke. This is in accord with the well-known saying in religious circles, “More incense, less nonsense.”………

It is said that it was originally used to disguise the smell of the pilgrims when they arrived at the cathedral, which might still be true, of course. Groups of pilgrims or other visitors can collect the 300-€ fee to pay for the performance. I am so very glad that I witnessed it today. Here is a video from YouTube that shows the drama involved.

Having entered the cathedral when it was cool and cloudy, I emerged to brilliant blue sky and strong sunshine.

I am now sitting on a terrace not far from the cathedral square, having finished a hot chocolate so thick that I did stand the spoon upright. It had to be eaten from the spoon rather than drunk, and I am now drinking a very nice white wine. In the last few minutes I have divested myself of body warmer, cardigan and t-shirt, leaving just a vest top (and trousers of course).

I paid a steep price for my prime position – 3.50-€ for the chocolate and 3.50-€ for a medium sized white wine. But it has to be done now and then.

I have now been to a supermarket and bought a few things for lunch and have been charmed by a large square on the quiet side of the cathedral, where I am sitting on some steps listening to a guy playing lovely guitar music.

And now I am in some beautiful parkland just behind the hotel catching some sun, just below an ancient monastery and within sight of the cathedral spires. It’s hard work, this relaxing business, but I suppose someone has to do it, and right now its my job!

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela | 6 Comments

Day 35, 20 May 2013, Finisterre to nowhere, 0 km

Posted on 20/05/2013 by magwood

And so, on the thirty-fifth day, God gave us a lie-in, rest and relaxation, and all is good with the world (well, it’s very good in my world, and that is all that counts for today!)

Ella and I purchased breakfast supplies and ate them on a sunny bench by the harbour. I then left her to walk to the beach at the entrance to town. a two kilometer stretch of white sand, backed by sand dunes and covered with sea shells.

It must be every pilgrim’s duty to search for their own scallop shell as a reminder of reaching the end of the world. There are plenty of the domed shells, but almost none of the flat ones. I have managed to find two incomplete ones and one which is pristine, albeit very small. It will do for me, unless of course I find a bigger one, when I continue my stroll along the beach. I have collected a few additional pretty shiny shells for my grandson Mikey, but I doubt he will appreciate them.

The scallop shell is the symbol of the camino de Santiago, and is given to pilgrims by the pilgrim office in St Jean Pied de Port. According to one version:

……….After James’ death, his disciples shipped his body to the Iberian Peninsula to be buried in what is now Santiago. Off the coast of Spain a heavy storm hit the ship, and the body was lost to the ocean. After some time, however, the body washed ashore undamaged, covered in scallops.

The scallop shell also acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James in Santiago de Compostela. The shell is also a metaphor for the pilgrim. As the waves of the ocean wash scallop shells up on the shores of Galicia, God’s hand also guides the pilgrims to Santiago.

The scallop shell also served practical purposes for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. The shell was the right size for gathering water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl.…….

I think I would be rather hungry and thirsty if I depended on the shells I found this morning to serve as eating and drinking utensils.

After such an arduous search, I had to stop and lie down in the sunshine to recover. I changed out of my trousers and into the denim shorts that I have carried for about 950 km and have only now put on for the first time. There are very few people here, just a handful, and it is fabulous. Tomorrow we return to the city and I am making the most of this wonderful solitude with the sound of the sea lapping thirty metres away, and nothing else to disturb the peace other than occasional birdsong.

After an hour or so I make my way to the far end of the beach – just because it’s there and I can. It was lovely walking across the deserted sand and I must make the effort to visit the beach more often when I return home.

I turned and sauntered back towards the town to see if I could find Ella, and lo and behold she was sitting on the sunny terrace of a harbour side bar/restaurant with Sheila. I joined them and had a glass or two of wine and a menu del dia consisting of calamares, followed by grilled fish and ice cream. Way too much for lunch and I could only eat half the fish.

I left the girls and returned to the albergue to send off yesterday’s post and suddenly felt completely drained and fell into bed for a siesta, the first that I can remember in five weeks. It just goes to prove the point that doing nothing is exhausting.

I was planning to catch the sunset again tonight but couldn’t summon the energy. Been there – done that – and have the photos to prove it!

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, Finisterre | 16 Comments

Day 34, 19 May 2013, Muxia to Finisterre 32 km

Posted on 20/05/2013 by magwood

So, the last day began bright and clear and we left Muxia for our last day of walking. After a while on the road we were directed onto a lovely soft sandy path that led through more pine and eucalyptus forests. Unfortunately we had to contend with some very serious hills, but I have learned to pace myself and tackle these inclines with regular long strides at a steady pace.

All the tracks in the area have been lined with beautiful granite dry stone walling. So much work, I guess, many years ago. There is an abundance of granite in this area, with much being used in public areas. Although during the last couple of days we have seen that the older houses are now built of a yellow stone, rather than the slate and granite of previous villages.

There is only one option to stop for refreshments today, at about the half way point, 16 km. As we get closer, the track changes to mud and we have to pick our way through deep bogs in the hope that the mud doesn’t reach the top of our boots.

After a late breakfast of toast for me and omelette for Ella, we set off again. Still in the mud, which gets deeper and deeper, although of course we eventually come to more hills where the surface water has drained away and the path becomes drier.

It is a long trek after four days of around 20 km, but eventually we can see the ocean again and hope that we don’t have too far to go. There are no distance markers today and we can only judge by how long we have been walking and our sense of how fast we are going. All our senses tell us we should be in Finisterre but we can only see a town in the far distance. After yet more steep hills we descend into the town and seek out the albergue where we have reserved beds.

After settling in we go for a drink and bump into Sheila, an Irish girl we met a couple of nights ago and after collecting our certificate for completing the camino between Santiago and Finisterre, we meet up with Sheila and a German girl called Jessica for a bite to eat.

I don’t stay long though because I am determined to walk to the lighthouse to see the sunset. I was really cross with myself last night in Muxia that I did not return to the sunset point, and was not going to miss it again. So I left the others, went back to the albergue to don my walking clothes and set off on the 3.5 km walk (uphill of course – all the way). There was a huge rainbow, with really strong colours dipping into the sea. As I walk further uphill I can see both ends of the rainbow, but they are too far apart to capture them with my iPad, which is a shame because I don’t remember seeing both ends of a rainbow clearly before.

I arrived at the lighthouse in perfect time to see the sun dropping behind some cloud that was hanging above the sea and waited for thirty minutes until it dropped into the ocean at exactly the time it was meant to, 21:58.

A fitting end to an amazing journey.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, Finisterre, Muxia | 13 Comments

Day 33, 18 May 2013, Dumbría to Muxia, 25 km

Posted on 18/05/2013 by magwood

A good night’s sleep was not had by me at the pensión. Although it was a private room, I had to share a double bed with Ella and it was not at all relaxing, not helped by the fact that it was very cold.

So we got up to a cold and damp room this morning and put on our cold and damp clothes and set off in the rain. To add to the pain, it soon became obvious that we had missed a direction and needed to retrace our steps. However we didn’t have to go far before finding the correct route, and before very long it stopped raining. And that was it. It didn’t start again. Not at all. Not even for a moment. It was a dry day, and we even saw some blue sky eventually.

The walk was very pleasant, cutting across the countryside via tracks and quiet roads. We are still having to climb steep hills although we are heading towards sea level by the end of our journey today. We pass through several villages and stop after 12 km for some breakfast. During the second half of our walk we came across three separate women walking the trail in reverse, which was extremely difficult for them because there were no markers in that direction, and it was virtually impossible for them to judge which way to take.

The way makers have changed each time we have crossed into a new region. In Navarra they were almost impossible to miss, there were so many of them. In La Rioja there were posts every kilometre. In Castilla y León they were more hit-or-miss, but still plenty of them. In Galicia, initially there were markers every half kilometre, but since leaving Santiago there have just been markers only where it is necessary to make a decision, and if you happen to be walking on the wrong side of the road (as we were this morning), then it is very easy to miss them.

All in all though, we have been looked after well by the camino and its guiding arrows.

The walk today was so very much more pleasant without any rain to dampen our clothes and spirits. Then at 12:30 pm, whilst descending a forest path I suddenly glimpsed my first sight of the sea through the eucalyptus and pine trees. It was a lovely bright blue, and as we emerged from the forest we could see the full expanse of the ocean. Quite magical, and so lovely that it remained dry.

We still had approximately 5 km to walk to Muxia, but with the sight and sound of the ocean it was a much less arduous task.

We are now ensconced in a bright and shiny new albergue, with more than sufficient facilities. We have washed and tumble dried all our sad damp clothes and are setup for the last day of our journey tomorrow, when we head off to Finisterre.

At the moment (6:30 pm) there is quite a lot of cloud, but the sky is also lit by sunshine and I am hoping that we will be lucky enough to catch a glorious sunset this evening. I will hold off posting this blog until after sundown so that I can hopefully include a photo of the sunset.

Sorry, no sunset. I walked quite a way to find the spot where it would happen. There were several coach loads of visitors, but I managed to take a few pics without the hordes. It would be nice to go back at sunset but it will be too late and too cold, so these will have to do.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, Dumbría, Muxia | 3 Comments

Day 32,17 May 2013, Maroñas to Dumbría, 22.5 km

Posted on 18/05/2013 by magwood

Head in the sand worked for a while, and we set off in weak sunshine, which lasted for a few kilometres.

And then, guess what? It rained, and rained. With various amounts of force, ranging from hard to very hard indeed!

That was our day really. Rain.

We stopped at our first opportunity, after 13 km. By now my trousers were clinging to my legs, my boots were soaked and so were my feet.

We had some breakfast and I changed trousers and socks but still had to put wet boots back on. We remained in the cafe in the dry for perhaps an hour whilst other pilgrims came and went – although there are not many true pilgrims on this leg of the camino. There are two large groups of people walking with day packs and just a handful of people walking with full backpacks.

After a further 7 km we had to decide which route to take. Most pilgrims who continue from Santiago walk directly to Finisterre and some continue to Muxia. We were told by our ecological host however many days ago, that it is better to visit Muxia first so that we can end our adventure in Finisterre – the end of the world. We subsequently discovered that this same guy had advised our friend Peter to visit Finisterre first and then go on to Muxia, which we all thought was quite funny.

Anyway, at the crucial point we decided to take the route to Muxia, by which time my dry trousers and socks were as wet as the wet ones.

Most of the walk today was on the road, but maybe thirty percent was on track, but of course it was very wet track, in fact most of the track had turned into a shallow stream, but luckily not too much mud today. One has to look for positive features during the day, and no mud is about the only one I can find!

The land here abouts looks very fertile, the earth is a rich black colour and very fine and is tended to perfection.

There are still forests of eucalyptus and pine, interspersed with gorse and broom and the hillsides at the highest points are coloured a deep yellow

We arrived at our destination – Dumbría – and immediately found a large and brand new albergue on the outskirts of the small town. Unfortunately, it was closed, with no sign of life. We continued into town and found a bar with a pensión attached and walked no further. The bar owner is a wonderful woman who runs the bar, restaurant, kitchen, attached shop and pensión single handed which includes stoking a roaring fire to keep us all warm. We have placed our boots around the flames to dry them off and Ella has managed to melt hers. We didn’t think the other customers would appreciate us putting our socks around the flames to dry, so they are hanging up in the bedroom without much chance of drying out by morning.

The forecast isn’t looking any better for the morning and we are running out of socks to change into!

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, Dumbría, Maroñas | 4 Comments

Day 31, 16 May 2013, Negreira to Maroñas, 20 km

Posted on 16/05/2013 by magwood

The day started grey and continued that way until it turned black and started to rain. We ignored it for half an hour or so, until it couldn’t be ignored any more and we stopped to put on our rain jackets and pack covers. It became the type of rain that bounces off the road and leaves bubbles floating in the puddles.

Ella was not happy. I was rather stoical about it – it wasn’t very pleasant and I couldn’t take any photos because I didn’t want to risk my precious ipad mini in the heavy rain, but I was prepared to battle on. Ella, however, was not.

When I was a child we had a black Labrador, creatively named ‘Beauty’ by my parents, although in later life she grew huge and hardly fitted the title anymore (as it happens, every one of my parents’ dogs grew huge in later years, with the exception of the afghan hound that they inherited from me and he was a bundle of nervous energy and refused to be over-fed). Anyway, when Beauty was a pup and taken out for a walk she would suddenly decide she had done enough exercise and just sit down and refuse to move further. We referred to this behaviour as going on ‘sit-down-strike’.

Ella put me in mind of Beauty today. After an hour or so of walking in the heavy rain she suddenly stopped and said “I can’t do this any more!”. Not that she had much choice. There was nowhere to stop unless she wanted to go on ‘sit-down-strike’ on the side of the road, just as Beauty would have done.

So we strode on after a short break for breakfast until we had covered 20 km and she could finally get her way. We are staying in a new-ish albergue with probably 12 beds and a very uninspiring menu. But it is clean and that is the most important attribute of communal accommodation.

All joking aside though, Ella does have a valid point. She hates walking in the rain and she doesn’t want her memory of our great adventure to be clouded by a miserable last few days. And the forecast for the next few days is not good. We might get a glimpse of sunshine this evening and then tomorrow promises to be a mirror image of today (more sit-down-strikes on the way!), and then it might improve a bit.

I am employing the ‘head in the sand’ stance and assuming that the forecast will be wrong and we will reach the coast to a greeting of glorious sunshine to reward us for our efforts. As the little French gits sang to us in the communal kitchen so many days ago (I did include this anecdote in my blog of the day, but thought better and deleted it before posting) “always look on the bright side of life”. I much prefer to take the positive view of this funny little ditty than whatever insult these young twerps intended, and I have often sung it to myself along the way. If anyone knows why it should be an insult, please don’t share it with me – I like the positive view!

So, not many photos today, although I did risk my precious toy for a few ‘hórreos’. These structures fascinate me. I would love to do a research project on them. I suspect they have a lot more relevance than just a storage facility for maize. Most of them have religious icons on the roof apex, some are ancient and some brand new, they are made out of a variety of materials and are quite beautiful – even the basic ones constructed with bricks have a certain aesthetic quality. This is the wikipedia definition………… an hórreo is a typical granary from the northwest of the Iberian Peninsular, built in wood or stone, raised from the ground by pillars ending in flat straddle stones to avoid the access of rodents. Ventilation is allowed by the slits in its walls……… and here is a selection that I have taken over the last week or so.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, Maroñas, Negreira | 1 Comment

Day 30, 15 May 2013, Santiago de Compostela to Negreira, 21 km

Posted on 15/05/2013 by magwood

The day started dull but dry, but this state of affairs didn’t last long and before we had passed through the cathedral square I was stopping to put on my raincoat. We were very quickly out of the city and back into eucalyptus woods. After the rain of the previous evening the scent in the woods was lovely and fresh. We saw very few people on the camino this morning, although we did set off very late at 8:45 am so most of those travelling this last leg had probably already left. After climbing steeply through the woods and emerging at the top of the hill we turned and saw the distant spires of the cathedral piercing the clouds.

We were now walking through a very affluent area of large properties with beautifully tended gardens. Someone back in Cómpeta (I think it may have been Irene) told me that I would see lots of hydrangeas in northern Spain, and it is true, they are everywhere, but not yet in flower. I expect when they come to bloom there will be some beautiful blue flowers because the soil here must be very acid as we have seen lots of camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons growing over the last few days. Also in recent days we have seen that the trees which line the town streets are camellias, which look beautiful for a few days, but the flowers all too soon turn brown to drop to litter the pavements.

There are also lots of foxgloves suddenly growing in the woods and beside the roads in this area, which I haven’t seen on the camino previously.

There have been lots of dogs in evidence all along the camino, ranging from mangy looking sheep dogs (that is, dogs that guard the sheep – not lassie types), through the typical short legged mutts that we know so well in Cómpeta and Canillas, to larger pure breeds. In the areas of the fabulous stone villages, we seemed to see little but Alsatians – and very many of them. But the last couple of days we have seen many boxers, retrievers, and setters. Almost without exception these dogs have been behind gates or tied up and not one has been aggressive. As we were passing through a village today we saw this poor chap. His owner told us the dog had suffered an accident two years ago and lost the use of his back legs, so the lovely guy made a carriage for him to exercise in.

The path took us up many more very steep, seemingly never ending inclines, through woodland and along the road, past streams and wide rivers until we reached the town of Negreira where we have decided to stop for the day, after only 21 km.

We made a trip to the supermarket and I have just enjoyed the best meal I have eaten for weeks. A huge salad with mixed leaves, tomatoes, mango, cashews and prawns. And Ella is preparing herself something hot (with kidney beans which is a instant put-off for me). So we are both healthily fed for a change, and no wine (also for a change!)

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, Negreira, Santiago de Compostela | 2 Comments

Day 29, 14 May 2013, Arca do Pino to Santiago de Compostela, 20 km

Posted on 14/05/2013 by magwood

We set off fairly early and were soon walking through eucalyptus woods on nice soft earth. After a breakfast break we continued up and down several steep hills and eventually skirted the airport and were buzzed by a very low flying Ryanair plane taking off.

There was more time in the woods before emerging into the outskirts of Santiago. Fortunately it is not a very big or industrial city so the walk towards the centre was nothing compared to Burgos and León. After an annoying 1 km diversion due to blindly following a pilgrim who had missed a turn we finally saw our first glimpse of the cathedral.

We arrived at the back of the building, but there are doors on all four sides, so we entered to find the building full of visitors, ordinary tourists as well as many pilgrims. I gave Ella a quick hug (it had to be quick because she is not the most tactile person) and I suddenly became overwhelmed with emotion. I found an empty pew and sat and wept for a while. I am not a religious person, and I was not feeling any emotion relating to the cathedral itself (although it is a very impressive structure). Rather it was simply the sense of occasion that we had completed such a massive achievement. I sat quietly for a while and gathered my thoughts before finding Ella and exiting via the main door at the front of the cathedral and descending the steps to the main square where we took a few photos, although I shall try to take some more impressive pics on a brighter day.

We then went to the pilgrims’ office where we briefly queued for our ‘Compostela’ certificate. This didn’t take long and we were soon making our way to the information office to get what info we could for the final leg of our journey – Finisterre, the world’s end. Here is a photo of the certificate and my complete pilgrim’s credential, fully stamped.

As we were leaving the office, our Dutch friend Peter came up behind us and after a short reunion we set off in search of a celebratory drink and a bite of lunch.

We are staying in the poshest of albergues, recommended by Peter. It is brand new, has very neat sleeping cubicles, and provides good quality cotton bed sheets and duvet! My first night outside of a sleeping bag for over four weeks. Bliss!

Ella has a snooze after lunch and although I am very tired I know that if I sleep during the day I will stand no chance of sleeping tonight, so after ablutions and laundry I wander off to look around the area. I return to the cathedral where it is now practically empty and take it all in without the hustle and bustle of earlier in the day. I go to the area where St James’ remains are kept and then up to where one can embrace a statue of the saint that looks down over the pulpit. I didn’t find it necessary to embrace a stranger so I just patted him on the shoulder. Here is some info about the old chap from a spanish guide, complete with some translation quirks:

………The name Santiago goes back to the Apostle James (Saint James =Santiago) who went to this most north-western part of Spain, called by the Romans “Finis Terrae”, “end of the world”, to preach and convert people to Christianity.

After returning to Palestine in 44 a.C., he was taken prisoner by Herodes Agrippa and tortured to death. The king forbid to bury him, but in the night Jacob’s disciples stole the body and brought him, in a sarcophagus of marble, on board of a small boat. The current of the sea drove the boat to the Spanish coast, into the port of the Roman province’s capital, Iria Flavia. Here the Apostle was buried at a secret place in a wood.

Centuries later, in 813, the hermit Pelayo listened music in that wood and saw a shining. For this shining the place was called, in Latin, “Campus Stellae”, field of the star, name that was later on turned into Compostela.

Bishop Teodomiro, who received notice of that event, instituted an investigation, and so the tomb of the Apostle was discovered. King Alphonse II declared Saint James the patron of his empire and had built a chapel at that place. It is reported that from then on Saint James did several miracles, even that he fought side to side with King Ramiro I in the decisive battle against the Moors.
More and more pilgrims followed the way of Santiago, the “Way of Saint James”, and the original chapel soon became the cathedral of the new settlement, Santiago de Compostela.

In 12th and 13th century the town had its greatest importance, and Pope Alexander III declared it a Holy Town, like Rome and Jerusalem. Pope Calixto II declared that the pilgrims who went to Santiago in a Holy Year should be free of all their sins. El Año Santo (Holy Year) is celebrated each time when the Apostol’s day (July, 25) is a Sunday……….

After dealing with St James I sat down in a pew to contemplate the last few weeks, and I think I dozed off for a few minutes. It was time to get up and go to rouse Ella for some supper before a night of luxury between cotton sheets. Such simple pleasures!

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Arca do Pino, Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances, Santiago de Compostela | 6 Comments

Day 28, 13 May 2013, Arzúa to Arca do Pino, 20 km

Posted on 13/05/2013 by magwood

After retiring early to catch up on my sleep, suddenly the albergue was invaded by a huge party of bag taxi-ing ‘pilgrims’. The dormitory was in two sections and all of the section that I was in had settled down when the very noisy invasion took place at lights-out time of 10 pm. Much harrumphing took place amongst us sleepy ones, whilst much loud talking and merriment was made amongst the newcomers.

I immediately inserted ear plugs and hoped for the best and as the bed above me was vacant I pinched the pillow to put under my calves so that my heels did not touch the mattress, as this still causes discomfort. I was aware of commotion for a long time but was cushioned from the worst of it by the ear plugs.

During the night I became aware that someone was sleeping in the bunk above me and immediately became conscious that I had stolen their pillow, which led to me having anxious dreams about taking things which weren’t mine. But at least I slept until people started moving about in the morning.

A lot of pilgrims sleep in the clothes they are going to walk in the next day so that they can make a quick and quiet get-away. These are the people who leave very early, often well before dawn. I hate the idea of this (both sleeping fully dressed and leaving before dawn!). I find it uncomfortable sleeping in anything and have had to get used to vest and pants or on cold nights long-johns and T-shirt, but have always worn different clothes to walk in.

I slept quite late – almost 7 am – brilliant! I got up and quietly gathered my stuff together. Half of the dormitory was already up or stirring, and the other half were still fast asleep. There is a point in the morning where there are more people awake, fumbling in the dark than there are still trying to sleep. I have no qualms about turning the lights on at 7 am as this is a reasonable time to expect everyone to be making a move. However of course the noisy lot from last night who wanted the lights on after 10 pm were not so keen for the lights at 7 am. Tough, as far as I am concerned.

I used the spacious disabled loo that no one else had discovered but someone tried the door before I was finished. I wasn’t in any particular hurry as there were other facilities available. But when I emerged I was confronted with a man in a wheelchair waiting very patiently and thanking me for opening the door wide for him.

So I had stolen a pillow during the night and deprived a disabled person of his rightful use of facilities in the morning. It was a good job I wasn’t planning on going back to sleep, or I would probably have had nightmares about my inconsiderate behaviour.

I suspect that the party of people that arrived late had an element of disabled people amongst them, which doesn’t excuse the racket they made but does make me think twice about making swift judgments about others’ behaviour.

The morning was bright and sunny and the first section of the walk was through beautiful wooded countryside. We are now in an area of eucalyptus forrest, a mixture of giant mature trees soaring completely straight towards the sky, newly planted saplings, and every size in between.

We stopped for breakfast and had a beautiful view from the terrace of the cafe.

We walk through many villages and hamlets but the delightful stone buildings that pleased me so much are few and far between now, having been replaced by ugly modern boxes, hiding behind ugly fences. The countryside is still very pretty though and today’s walk is mostly on soft track with very little walking on the road,

During the walk we came across a couple of photos under a stone sitting on top of a way marker. I stopped to have a look and was moved to tears. On the back of the photo of an elderly woman was written, “this is my mother ….name…. who always wanted to travel but couldn’t because of health issues. Mum, I am walking the camino for you”. It has just brought tears to my eyes again. How lovely.

We also came across a memorial to to a guy who died of a heart attack whilst walking the camino, only 20 km from his goal. He was 69 and died in 1993, which was a holy year. If St James’ anniversary (not sure if birthday or date of death) falls on a Sunday the year is assigned holy status and anyone who is granted a Compostela in that year has all their sins to date absolved.

Although it is to be a short day I still go through my black patch in the late morning and we eventually stop at 12:30 pm for a beer-and-boots-off rest. We only have to trek a further 4 km to reach our destination and arrive by just after 1 pm. It is a nice-ish, big-ish town and we choose a very nice albergue.

After showering we find a bar with a sunny terrace and order the local dish of Galician style octopus. It was ok. I felt I had to try it, but I don’t feel I need to eat it again!

I am now sitting in an old ladies’ hairdressers, having a much needed and long overdue colour on my hair that my daughters so kindly describe as having faded to ‘nicotine yellow’. All the old ladies that have passed through so far have had the same colour brown and a short back and sides cut, and I am getting a bit worried. However two hours later and with a huge amount of hair cut off, I have avoided the buzz cut and am very pleased with the result. The lovely lady charged me only 22-€ (although I paid her 30-€). Even Ella (who is a trained colourist) is impressed and I can walk into Santiago tomorrow with my head held high.

When I returned to the albergue the hospitalero didn’t recognise me until I told him I had been to the hairdresser that he had recommended. Once the penny dropped, he was very complimentary. So off to dinner now and a reasonably early night ready for our big day tomorrow.

Posted in Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Walking the walk | Tagged Arca do Pino, Arzúa, Camino blog, Camino de Santiago blog, Camino de Santiago., Camino Frances | 11 Comments

Day 27, 12 May 2013, Palas de Rei to Arzúa, 30 km

Posted on 12/05/2013 by magwood

This will be a very short post because I am really tired and I need to try to get a decent sleep tonight.

We left the very nice albergue this morning, walked through woodland for an hour and a half and stopped for breakfast. Ella bought a pastry and I ate the fruit salad from yesterday, which had survived the journey in my pack.

Last night’s albergue had a washing machine but no dryer. I managed to get my stuff dry by morning but Ella’s was still wet so she had to be a human clothes line for the day.

We continued to Melide, a sizeable town, which was absolutely buzzing with a fiesta. The town is famous for its octopus dishes but today was celebrating its sweet cakes and it was most unlike a Spanish town on a Sunday. There were street markets, bands playing gaitas (spanish bagpipes), and of course the inevitable rockets. A lovely man stopped us in the street to explain what was going on – he was very keen to speak to us in English and told us that he had lived in Richmond for many years.

It was a nice bright sunny day, but I found the walking hard going, whether from lack of sleep last night or just general fatigue, I don’t know. So all my boasting about getting stronger every day has come to haunt me today. I shall be more careful what I say in future.

We are staying in an extremely non-descript town tonight, but in a clean and well run albergue. We have two shortish days coming up so hopefully I will recover some of my zest to take me into Santiago on Tuesday. We will then have another five or six days to walk to Muxia and Finisterre before getting the bus back to Santiago for Ella’s flight to the UK on 22 May.