Trepidatious traveller – camino blog

I updated yeaterday’s entry, so if you want to know how the day went please go back and take a look.

Today started very fresh but a lot less cold than yesterday and I had soon warmed up with a spot of rapid walking. The paths were easy all the way with almost no road walking. The scenery changed from time to time with open pasture, shady oak trees and great swathes of cereal crop.

At one time I spied a peaceful bull (to be honest it could have been a cow, but a bull suited my sentimentality). He was lying under a cork tree and I was instantly reminded of the children’s storybook ‘Ferdinand’ about a bull that was bred to fight in the bullring, but he only wanted to sit under the cork tree and smell the flowers, I tiptoed over the field to get a closer photo, but he saw me coming and stood up before I could get my shot. What a shame. Ferdinand was one of my girls’ (and my) favourite bedtime stories.

The historic city of Salamanca came into view from about ten km away and the spires of the cathedral stood out on the skyline for a couple of hours. By the end of the walk I was in the company of English Paul, French Olivier and German Toby and we walked straight to the Albergue alongside the cathedral, knowing that they wouldn’t allow anyone in until 16:00 but, as luck would have it, the hospitalera was at the door when we arrived at 13:30 and she allowed us to leave our packs inside so that we could take a look around the city unencumbered.

Having seen the city from such a distance it seemed t take forever to reach the centre and it was worth every step. A beautiful place, but unfortunately absolutely full of tourists, with large groups traipsing around after guides. I don’t mind tourists when I am being one, but I don’t like to compete for space when I am walking. I may try to do the roof tour of the cathedral in a while to get a better feel for the layout of the city – update have just done the rooftop and bell tower tour. Fabulous. I scared myself silly having to walk back down an uneven stone spiral stairway – but hey – it was just another step outside my comfort zone.

Unfortunately the massive Plaza Mayor is being set up for some event and the whole of the centre of the square was taken up with hoardings, which rather spoiled the effect. We found a restaurant and I ordered a bacon bocadillo which was absolutely what the doctor ordered and then I purchased some healthy food for a light salad supper in a Carrefour express supermarket, before heading back to check into the Albergue. I grabbed the last bottom bunk. There are only sixteen places here and there are three women amongst thirteen men. But the bonus here is that there are female showers and, low and behold, the floors were not covered in water and I had a lovely hot shower.

I am sad that we are losing one of our ‘family’ tomorrow. French-Canadian Daniel is finishing this leg of his Via de la Plata in Salamanca before returning home. I have enjoyed so much listening to his lovely voice (you know ladies…perfect English spoken with a strong French accent!). But of course that is the way of the camino – pilgrims come and go and hopefully leave a lasting impression.

An update about the Czech guys with the dogs. We saw them in San Pedro last night and they said they were walking on into Salamanca because they had no money for themselves or dogs. I gave them some money for the dogs and they set off to complete a 50 km stretch into the city. We saw them again when we arrived. They were begging on the street and seemed to have collected a few euros on top of their credencials that they had spread out on the pavement. One of the dogs had an injury though, she had hurt her foot during the walk and they were planning a visit to the vet which hopefully would be given for free. It is impossible not to like these guys and admire their determination to compete the camino without any funds.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 24.5 km

Accumulated elevation uphill 103 metres

Accumulated elevation downhill 291 metres

Total distance walked 814.3 km, average 27.1 km per day

Yesterday evening there were more than twenty for dinner. I enjoyed the company of an English speaking woman for a change – an American couple who are walking a little and taxi-ing a lot. There was an Austrian guy who arrived ‘a caballo’ but when I tried to engage him in conversation (because I was particularly interested in his mode of transport) he seemed very dismissive, four Spanish guys walking together, and my ‘family’. Lentil soup followed by cold meat and salad, with some apple cake to finish up. I had a couple of servings of soup and a piece of cake, and joined in some jovial conversation with the spanish guys surrounding me.

I have a gripe to share. Men and bathrooms! Why do they have to make such a mess with the water. I have now shared enough bathrooms with various male pilgrims to see a very clear pattern. They splash water on their faces in the morning and it ends up on the floor. Not a little bit, but a lot. This morning I was minding my own business tying up my hair when a (Spanish) guy entered and used the loo directly behind me and left the door open. Why?? I quickly pushed the door closed on him whilst he finished his ‘business’, but then he emerged and took up a position at the basin next to me and continued to vigorously splash water over his face, at the same time splashing the floor and also splashing me. Not good manners by anyone’s standards. In general I have found that groups of men walking together are not very inclusive of others – they go about their business as if no-one else exists. I was very glad this morning when this group of four busily passed me early in the day and were then out of my sight for the rest of my day.

Today was fabulous. I don’t have time to go into detail. Enjoy the photos and I will expand tomorrow.

Yesterday was a glorious day for walking. Although so cold in the morning that I had to stop after a few minutes and search in my backpack for a pair of socks to wear on my freezing hands (I lost my gloves a few days ago). But the rising sun and the scenery were spectacular. It was a fairly long day but the rewards of the countryside and the birdsong, the easy tracks and the change in elevation all added up to perfection. The trail took us up to a high ridge where many wind turbines were lazily deciding whether they could be bothered to turn in the barely moving air and then we meandered through woodland and wide open spaces until eventually the village of San Pesro suddenly popped up in front of my eyes. I had turned on my music around 7 km from our destination and I was suddenly empowered with great strength and enthusiasm to just walk to the extreme. I powered on as if the air was carrying me and enjoyed every second of the walk.

The weather turned sunny but there was always cool air to bring the temperature down. Perfect walking conditions.

The sound of the cuckoo has accompanied me every day of this camino, and today I was treated to the sight of eagles soaring above me. So huge was the shadow of one low flying bird that I first though an aeroplane was passing overhead.

I have now walked almost 800 km and am prepared and ready to continue this camino to its rightful end. I was not sure when I set out how far I would reach before feeling I had had enough. I knew that I wanted to reach Mérida, but now I am ten days beyond that point and less than three weeks from my destination, firstly Santiago de Compostela and then Finisterre, at which point I can claim to have walked from coast to coast – Málaga to Finisterre.

There have been lots of questions about the state of my feet. They are good. My heels are a bit bruised but no more blisters and at the end of a day’s walk now, my first thought isn’t related to removing my boots (more likely – where is the bar!) All is well, I am strong and motivated, and very glad of all the support I am receiving.

We shared ourselves around the accommodation in the village – I stayed at the albergue Miliario for 10€ – a tiny house with two bedrooms each with four beds and bed linen provided.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 29 km

Accumulated elevation uphill 378 metres

Accumulated elevation downhill 355 metres

Total distance walked 789.8 km, average 27.2 km per day

Last night’s meal was spectacular value at Casa Sebas. I still haven’t learned, and ordered a menu del dia. There was a choice of five or six dishes for each course. I ordered seafood soup, roast chicken (which arrived with two whole quarters of chicken and chips), home made flan (creme caramel), bread, coffee, a large bottle of water and a whole bottle of wine per person – all for 9 euros. Of course I couldn’t eat it all, in fact the soup was really sufficient. So I took the chicken and the roll away with me for today’s lunch and dinner, but forgot to put it in the fridge, and as it was rather hot in the dorm last night I didn’t think it was worth the chance of a tummy upset and left it behind.

This is a very male dominated camino. I was the only woman amongst six men last night. I do miss some female company, but the guys are all very pleasant. English Paul, French Olivier, and the two Germans are regulars on my stages. Last night there was a Spanish cyclist and another Spaniard who is running the camino, around 40 km per day. He trotted past me early on this morning and soon disappeared into the distance.

Today’s hike commenced on the road, and remained that way for the best part of 7 km, but then diverted onto a nice track as far as the town of Baños de Montemayor at around 10 km, where I stopped in a cafe for a Cola Cao (very poor excuse for a hot chocolate). Before setting off again I togged up in the wet weather gear (not very extensive as far as I am concerned, just my pack cover and rain jacket) because the sky was very threatening and it was also quite blustery although not at all cold.

My guide told me that Baños de Montemayor is the last town I will pass through in Extremadura and I soon moved into the province of Salamanca in the autonomous district of Castilla y León. With this change of district comes a change of signage. Gone are the ‘hitos’, the blocks of granite or stainless steel boxes with images of the Cáparra arch which have been rather ambiguous in their direction from time to time! And in come the wooden posts with a yellow triangle indicating the way. In my short acquaintance with these new signs, I have to say that they already inspire a bit more confidence than those provided by Extremadura, where I have been lost and wandering a couple of times.

The second part of the walk has been beautiful, mostly on comfortable tracks, alongside my favourite granite drystone walls covered in moss, with stunning countryside. The broom has been fabulous during the last couple of days, the colour is really vibrant and the scent follows as I pass by. Dense swathes of lavendar still abound and the colour combination of yellow and purple is just wonderful.

It rained on and off for this part of the hike, but the rain couldn’t dull the beauty of the surroundings. There was snow on the distant mountains this morning – not much but if you look closely at some of the photos you will see it. Someone had been out marking the track today, lots of arrows scraped into the dirt track and some beautiful flower directions – so lovely.

I really took my time to walk today, enjoying every step of the way (once I got off the road). A lovely (short-ish) stage to make up for yesterday’s great effort.

I arrived at the homely Albergue Alba y Soraya, to be greeted by a roaring fire (not at all necessary but nevertheless a joy to see). There are 28 beds, including singles and doubles but of course I am in a dormitory with all men. This is a tiny village with very few facilities, but the Albergue serves food so there may not be any need to move far. There is a lovely garden, but not the weather to enjoy it.

The usual suspects are here, the two Germans (I must find out their names), Paul, Olivier has just limped in with very poorly feet), French-Canadian Daniel has arrived – not seen him for a few days, apparently he skipped a stage so has caught up) and there are a couple of new people (French I think) who I have not come across before. This is a really nice place to stay (just as well really because there is not much choice here), and they serve food for lunch and dinner (and a big glass of wine for 1€ – sorted!)

Daniel and Olivier pose for a selfie

My friend Olivier has informed me today that there are no cash machines (ATM’s) until we reach Salamanca, three days hence. My remaining 20€ won’t get me far. Señora at the Albergue says that when we reach our next destination I can draw 50€ cash from the supermarket. If this is the case I can pay back Olivier who has just loaned me 50€ to see me through. Funny thing is, that I offered him 50€ a few days ago when he was running low and I was flush. Such are the bonds made between pilgrims.

This tiny village with only one bar and no shop has very old buildings and is very characterful. It is now blowing an absolute gale and the fire seems more necessary by the minute!

And added to this great day’s hike, I was thrilled to receive some views on my blog from a new country – Honduras. The information provided by the stats section of my blog always fascinates me, and now that I have received views from 130 countries, new ones are few are far between and cause great excitement. So if you are my viewer from Honduras, thank you, please hang around.

Whilst I am sitting here writing my blog there are three guys sitting outside, under the shelter of the terrace roof with their two dogs. I have seen them a few times and mostly they camp out. But now the rain is pelting down in a horizontal fashion and the hospitaleros won’t allow them to stay in the grounds for the night. It seems hard, but they have no money and there is a business to be run. I hope they all find somewhere dry to stay tonight. I feel really sorry for the dogs – they haven’t made the choice to walk the camino, although they seem to enjoy it for the most part.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 22.7 km
Total distance walked 738.7 km, average 27.3 km per day

I have to say the cava went down very well yesterday afternoon. The hostel filled up with three spanish cyclists, the group of three French – two women and one man, French Olivier, Spanish Santos (that is now two very charming Spanish men I have met called Santos), Spanish Antonio and English Paul with whom I shared my room (and neither of them snored, although I woke myself up with a snort during the night!). I was already sitting up in bed prior to settling down for the night when our hostess the elderly Señora Elena came in to say goodnight – she sat on the edge of my bed and asked where I would be walking today. I thought she was going to ‘tuck me in’, but that didn’t quite happen.

I walked with Paul today. He walks fast, but in a different way from Super George. SG looks as if he is taking a leisurely stroll, although he is making a great pace because of his very long stride. Whereas Paul looks as if he is walking very fast – he has ‘busy legs’. But nevertheless, Paul walks faster than I do.

It was always going to be a very long day. 39+ km. And just under half way through we were to pass by the Cáparra – http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cáparra – an ancient pre-Roman site where a huge arch still stands and is the symbol of the Via de la Plata.

I read that there was an ‘interactive’ visitor centre and had visions of being able to refill my water bottles, make use of the facilities, and treat myself to an icecream. How very foolish I was (am). ‘Interactive’ translated as a few information boards amongst the archeological dig. But it was our first chance to sit down and take a break at 18.5 km. We met an Italian couple who were walking the VDPL in reverse from Salamanca to Sevilla. Very difficult to follow arrows in a backward direction because you can’t tell where they are coming from. And were passed by three cyclists (one of whom made me jump right out of my skin when he wished me ‘Buen camino’ from inches behind me when I had no idea he was there).

After this initial break we still had over twenty km’s to complete. It had been raining most of the morning, never hard, and for most of the time it could be ignored. But I did put on the ‘wet gear’ – rain jacket and shoulder cape – a couple of times.

Most of the track was delightful – narrow paths through meadowland of holm and cork oak. There were some ‘interesting’ water features to cross – and yes, I did walk the (concrete) plank, and wade the knee deep fast flowing stream. Wading is now something I am very experienced at and just get on with it. Fastening the crocs onto my feet with the knee braces and plodding through the water. It was very refreshing today after so many km’s in my boots and was very welcome.

However, something went wrong at this point. The directions were not very specific and we ended walking in the wrong direction and possibly adding a couple of km’s and a lot of Tarmac to our walk. I didn’t realise that the 18.5 km break would be our only one – we walked a full 40+ km with only a 20 minute break – my poor feet were screaming – but just aching, no problems.

We arrived, foot sore, at around 15:30. I am staying in the albergue ‘La Casa de mi Abuela’ 13€ for a bunk with bedding provided, or 15€ including breakfast. It is a very nice establishment, well organised with pleasant sitting room. In my room is a guy I haven’t come across before (unknown nationality) and the two German guys I have met over the last few days, Paul and me. I have just come across the Dutch couple who are staying in a casa rural. And there is another albergue in the town where I expect Olivier and Santos are residing.

Update – poor Olivier has just limped in at gone 18:00 – he set off at least half an hour before us and has been wandering the countryside for almost twelve hours. Ouch! Santos stopped short after around 20 km.

Aldeanueva del Camino is a pretty town with many old buildings. If I can find the energy I might take a stroll around, although it is raining harder now, so I might not!

Distance according to my notes – Wikiloc stopped working when my phone ran out of battery and I didn’t notice! – 40 km
Total distance walked 716 km, average 27.5 km per day

I have now exceeded the distance I walked on the camino portuguese at 670 km in 27 days.

I was expecting to find a charming pueblo inside the castellated walls of Galisteo, but the only thing that charmed me was this little fellow.

I had been planning another fair hike today but because of the holiday weekend I wanted to be sure that the Albergue at my planned destinstion would be open. I tried various telephone numbers numerous times but got not one reply. So I have decided to play safe and have a virtual day off.

After taking an unscripted diversion due entirely to me taking more notice of the sunrise, the storks and the cows than the camino directions, I walked at least one km more than I should have, probably more like one and a half. But that was the only section of today’s walk that was off Tarmac, so at least there was a minor benefit! Fortunately the route was along a quiet country road without much traffic.

I am staying at the Albergue de la Señora Elena, another old house split into rooms of 3 beds, with fully functioning kitchen and sitting area, cost 11€. So here is my chance to catch up with all the questions posed in the comments section of the blog over the last couple of weeks.

I love reading the comments and am so glad that you take the time to post them. But it is difficult to respond in a timely fashion, so I will post a new ‘questions and answers’ response later today.

Seeing as I am having a day off, I have treated myself to an appropriately named bottle cava (I knew there was a reason to stop posting my expenses!). I have to say it cost more than double what I pay for a bottle at home (1.85€) but I decided I am worth it – and other than Fanta Naranja I haven’t drunk anything with bubbles for almost four weeks, so it is long overdue. I even found a suitable glass – cheers folks!

Quick update. Am delighted that my French, Spanish-speaking, friend has just limped in after a very long stage + 24 km on Tarmac. I was so pleased that I shared the cava – isn’t that what friends are for?

Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 12.9 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 8 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 21 metres
Total distance walked 676 km, average 27 km per day

Today’s walk was another of two halves – or more accurately two thirds and a third. The first part was glorious, just how I like it, walking through meadows, not alongside or between them. Lots of flowers and trees (and cows) – really lovely.

The second part was road – not so lovely but not as bad as most, very quiet being Mayday holiday. Walking along the road, first into the village of Riolobos and then a 9 km slog into the walled town of Galisteo, I was fairly sure that others had taken a different route. There is a diversion through Riolobos because the owner of the land that had always been used for this section of the Via de la Plata decided a few years ago that he no longer wanted pilgrims roaming over his property. The government intervened but he would not change his mind and hence the diversion. However, people who were behind me at the meadow section were sitting comfortably at the bar when I arrived in town. I’m glad to say that Paul, my room mate, also took the same route that I did – we are the only English and followed the very clear directions, so increasing our journey by around 5 km, whereas the others I guess took the old route regardless! I shall have to find out and report back.

Update – just spoke to the Germam pilgrim – they all took the same route I did. The Dutch couple who were behind me, and at the bar when I arrived, took a taxi – now all is clear!

So just a short post – the photos say it all – the camera was very busy today!

I wasn’t the only one carrying my worldly goods on my shoulders on the camino this morning

These beautiful animals were on the track this morning – we spent quite some time chatting

Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 33.7km
Accumulated elevation uphill 354 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 423 metres
Total distance walked 663.1 km, average 27.6 km per day

I’ve decided to give up on reporting expenditure – I think you will have an idea by now how it can be done. I will continue with the cost of accommodation only. Today I am staying in hostal ‘Los Emigrantes’, sharing a room with another pilgrim, with bathroom shared by many more 10€. It is fine for the price (the Albergue was full).

There were ultimately no disasters relating to the top bunk – I took a chair from the dining room and once standing on this was able perch my bum on the bed and swing my legs up. Most ladylike! However this morning was a different matter. I was ready and out the door well before 07:30 and was merrily striding out when I realised I was not wearing my visor. This home made head-gear has been worn every step of the way on two and a half caminos, but I thought twice about turning around and going back to fetch it. In the end common sense prevailed and I turned tail after virtually one km and headed back into town. I first came across the slow-coaches who I shared my room with last night and they said that lovely Hungarian Andrea had found it and passed it to lovely single French guy (not single as in eligible, but single as in walking alone – not one of the four French guys walking together). As I was approaching the Albergue I spied LSFG, aka Olivier, with said visor attached to his pack strap – what a star. We walk at a similar pace and have spent some time chatting in spanish, which I have enjoyed as his level is about the same as mine and it is easy to understand him because he has to think about what he is saying, which slows him down to my pace. We walked together for quite a while today, on and off, along rather prettier flat sandy tracks with lots of cows who patiently posed for me. I stopped for a boots-off break after around 12 km and Olivier walked on. A huge reservoir came into sight – beautiful blue water. But a bridge is in the process of being constructed across the water (two in fact) and I had to endure a long diversion to by-pass the construction site. It is part of a new fast rail line ( although it looked more like a road to me)being built to connect Madrid with Extremadura and continue to the Portuguese border. Eventually I was led onto the shoulder of a road, not much traffic, but very fast moving. The first thing to pass me was a big lorry and I lost my hat for the second time today when the back-draught whipped it from my head. I quickly grabbed it before it disappeared out of reach. The vehicles on this road seemed to be mostly construction lorries and big shiny motorbikes a few at a time, which seemed to be using the road as a racing track, whizzing past at enormous speed and huge noise. I caught back up with Olivier just here and admired the new bridge works from the road bridge that we were travelling on. Apparently there is a town below the reservoir but all I could see were shoals of massive fish. We eventually reached the Albergue where Olivier is stopping, along with all the rest of the pilgrims I have been seeing for the last few days. I called in for a top up of my water supplies and as the day was getting very hot, I soaked my long scarf in water and wrapped it around my neck. This is such s treat – it’s a wonderful way to keep the sun at bay and when It got even hotter, I put it over my head. So I bade farewell to Olivier and Javier and continued on my way, as were a couple of German pilgrims who had been in my room last night. The track climbed high above the water and I got a different view of the new bridge in construction. The track was now very stoney and rocky and hard work to walk on. I slowed my pace right down. It is really hard walking on this type of track and it is necessary to watch almost every step – it would be so easy to turn my foot or trip – especially as the day wears on and I become tired. But luckily there were no mishaps and I trundled on taking my time on the uneven track, And now and then refreshing my scarf with more water. The town of Cañaveral comes into sight from quite a distance but never seems to get any closer. I followed instructions on my app guide to ignore certain signs and carry straight on, but looking at my GPS route, I can see that I should have followed said signs to the town and saved myself quite a few km’s wandering about on the hillside. After following those app instructions I eventually came to a site where there is a big wooden notice board erected by the Ayuntamiento with a wooden arrow marker pointing to the left along a very narrow track. I followed this for a while but it didn’t feel right, so before I got too far, I returned to the notice board and this time noticed a very faded yellow arrow pointing to the right, which my instinct told me was correct. So I in turn followed this path for at least 500 metres, but it seemed to be taking me further away from the village. I decided to return to the board yet again, and this time I phoned the Albergue where I was due to stay and was told to take the direction I originally went to the left, and eventually there were some arrows. I finally reached the Albergue at around 5 pm. I had consumed more than three litres of water today and could easily have drunk more. But the prize at the end of this hard slog was worth the effort. Quite the nicest (private) Albergue, charging 15€ and providing crisp sheets and duvet in spacious rooms of four beds – Of which two are occupied in my room. And the lovely hospitalera machine washed almost every item of my clothing and hung it out to dry for me. They also serve a three course menu with wine for 7€ – about time I had a decent meal. Although my distance walked is 38.5, about 1.5 of that involved returning for my hat and probably the same or more wandering about in the wilderness. The various guides state anything between 32 and 36, so I would take a guess at somewhere between 34-35 being correct. Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 38.6 km Accumulated elevation uphill 313 metres Accumulated elevation downhill 311 metres Total distance walked 629.4 km, average 27.4 km per day Today’s spend – drinks 2€, supplies 4.31€, albergue 15€, washing 3€ dinner 7€. Spend for the day 31.31€ Twenty-three days total spend 553.94€

I eventually found a shop in the strange little town of Valdesalor, but only because a fellow pilgrim walked me to it. I had previously walked straight past it as there was no indication whatsoever that there was anything but a private house behind the front door. From the very uninspiring selection of goods, I gathered a small bagette, a can of fish, a tomato and a packet of chicken noodle soup for the princely sum of 3.25€, and I have to say it was all quite enjoyable (you have to realise that by now my standards and expectations are not too high!)

We were eleven in the albergue which had room for fourteen. I arrived in time to take the last lower bunk, which was next to the door. Next to the door is the worst position, but it is still better than the top bunk furthest from the door. I am surrounded by mostly French and mostly men.
Men – French 5, French Canadian 1, Spanish 1, Hungarian 1, Italian 1
Women – Hungarian 1, me

But it is a nice crowd of friendly people who have been in eachother’s company for a few days (excepting the italian).

So I was in prime position to count the number of times those present in this lovely albergue took a trip to the loo during the night – I lost count after about thirty. It was like Clapham Junction – I am sure everyone was waiting for the last person to return to bed before making their move. I don’t know what they put in the water in this town, but it is very effective!

I don’t rush myself in the mornings – I do what I need to do without panicking about being the last out (which I haven’t been yet), but I am certainly not the first.

I don’t get to see the sunrise from home, as we are on the wrong side of the mountain (but absolutely the right side for the sunset), so today’s sunrise was an absolute treat. No clouds in the sky to defuse the perfect ball of glowing orange. It was so bright that it hurt my eyes to look at it. Stunning!

Today’s stage was a walk of two halves – firstly into Cáceres, an ancient city that I have briefly visited many years ago. The prescribed route took us past the church of Santiago and I called in to ask for a sello (stamp) for my credencial, which was forthcoming, but the route avoided the centre of town and castle that I remember from my previous visit, which is a shame because pilgrims passing through will not get an idea of how lovely this place is.

Walking down the pleasant promenade out of town I came across Javier (Spanish) and the single French pilgrim, and although I stopped for my morning snack, these guys were in my line of sight all the way to our destination of Casar de Cáceres, a bustling fair-sized town with a beautiful approach via a very prettily planted promenade.

Both halves of the walk have been through similar scenery – wide open undulating meadowland – I have to say it is not nearly so inspiring as the holm oaks and cereal crops of the last few days of the Mozárabe. But the paths have been easily manageable, varying from rutted dirt, to rocky, to sandy, to gravel and a bit of road walking thrown in for good measure. The ground water has pretty much drained away now and the sky has remained more or less cloudless all day, with a gentle breeze – although it was a bit chilly first thing and I almost regretted reverting to my sleeveless T-shirt this morning.

My mood changed rather when we reached the municipal albergue in the centre of town. All bottom bunks had been taken, which is bound to happen from time to time and I realise I need to toughen up and get on with it. But here there are not only no ladders to the top bunks, but no chairs to climb on either. I’m not even sure how a tall young person would accomplish this feat with any dignity, let alone a mature woman of my age. Do the powers that be give this any thought when designing their albergue (donativo by the way)? There are two rooms with 18 beds, one has a row of showers about 50 cm from the nearest bed, and the other room has loos in a similar position.
Being allocated a top bunk means that there is nowhere to sit to ‘do your stuff’. Oh, and just to top it off the beds are pushed together so that I might as well be in a double bed with a stranger. Although I am lucky that Javier is next to me, and he is a lovely, very quiet chap.

I shall not worry about my predicament until I have to – and I hope I don’t have a disaster to report tomorrow. But I do have a mini disaster to report now – I just stubbed my big toe on a marble step and split the nail – it doesn’t hurt and I haven’t poked about with the nail yet, so hopefully it will be ok. Feet are good today – nothing new (apart from the broken nail) and all existing problems settling down nicely.

At least the bar opposite has good wifi and I shall spend the afternoon mooching about town.

Good news update!!! More pilgrims arrived so they had to open the reserve room. I found out too late to claim a lower bunk, but quickly moved my stuff to this new room where the slow-coaches are residing. It has a separate quarter for loos and showers and the beds are a reasonable distance apart. Phew – that was a close one. And now I am not the only woman amongst sixteen men – the odds have shortened to four women and twenty men. And I have now discovered that there is wifi in the albergue also – getting better by the minute!

Distance according to wikiloc (my own recording) 25.9 km, Fitbit recorded steps
Accumulated elevation uphill 219 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 243 metres
Total distance walked 590.8 km, average 26.8 km per day

Today’s spend – drinks 4.2€, sandwich supper and supplies 6.75€, albergue 5€,mminus underspend yesterday 2.75€. Spend for the day 13.2€
Twenty-two days total spend 522.63€