Trepidatious traveller – camino blog

I was late setting off this morning and then stopped for a hot drink – Paul’s laid-back influence. The journey out of the city was not as bad as the approach, but we were on the road for around 15 km. There are a series of bridges crossing the wide Rio Miño and our path took us over an ancient bridge, which I couldn’t photograph because of the poor angle I could see it from, but I took a lovely photo of the modern bridge a few hundred metres away.

At around 7 km I found myself climbing the most ridiculously steep hill – 19% for two km’s! It was a real killer – but there was nothing to do but keep putting one foot in front of the other, again and again and again. Eventually it evened out and soon after we came upon a resting place for pilgrims in the form of an old house, hosted by a charming and very talkative man who offered sustenance. I was served a delicious slice of sugary ‘eggy bread’ and a glass of his home made ecological wine, which was very good. A couple of villagers came and joined in the conversation for a while and it was all very pleasant.

Soon after we started to walk on tracks, some of which were the remains of Roman roads (always hard on the feet) and we were led across a medieval bridge. Again, it was a short day that seemed quite long. Maybe I am getting to the end of my endurance. I certainly didn’t feel particularly refreshed from my relaxing thermal dip yesterday. But I saw a road sign today stating that Santiago is 79 km’s away.

Here in the small town of Cea, the houses are in better repair than most small towns and villages and it is mostly very attractive. I felt it my duty to try a small portion of pulpo which was very nice. And I found a bar to send off yesterday’s post. I realise I omitted a photo of our previous night’s dinner, which I will include when I next get a chance (now done).

My guide says the Xunta albergue has been reported to be a bit dirty in the last year or so, and I can’t say that it was wrong. The accommodation is good, as in all Xunta albergues, but it is in need of a jolly good spring clean. The hospitalero reminds me of a dodgy character from an episode of ‘Only Fools and Horses’.

There seems to be a large influx of new faces the last couple of days and I have put this down to the fact that Ourense is the starting point for pilgrims who want to walk the minimum distance (100+ km’s) to receive a compostela (certificate) – the equivalent of Sarria on the Camino Frances and Valença/Tui on the Camino Portuguese. The forty places in the albergues last night and today have been full. I have to say that I don’t like such crowds, although once walking, people spread out well enough and I don’t necessarily see anyone during the day.

I am undecided as to whether I shall reach Santiago in three or four more days. If four, then I will need to take a very short stage tomorrow. Let’s just wait and see what pans out. The end is definitely in sight and I shall be really glad to get back to some home comforts and familiar surroundings.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 22.5 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 557 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 217 metres
Total distance walked 1,226.6 km, average 27.3 km per day

Sorry about the absence of this post yesterday, we ate at a bar without wifi last night, so I missed my opportunity to publish……

Not much of a post today. I wasn’t inspired to take many photos en route. I walked mostly on road with a few brief sorties onto track. A fairly short stage although it felt long enough. A good 8 km were spent walking through the suburbs of this large city (population 110.000).

My gang (all fast walkers) coalesced during the last couple of km’s and arrived first at the albergue. Hurray we thought, we can definitely grab some downstairs bunks. But our pride was short lived – we arrived at 11:45 and the albergue didn’t open until 13:00. So we staked our claim to first entry by placing our backpacks very definitely in an orderly line outside the albergue door. It is in an ancient building which was part of s convent and the beautiful cloister is in excellent condition to be seen next door.

I took the opportunity to search out s pc shop and finally purchased a new power bank (external charger), which cost a fraction of the price I paid a couple of years ago.

And then, after waiting around for the hospitalero to turn up and attending to ablutions and laundry duties, the four of us (Paul, Aase, Wilfied and me, decided to visit the thermal spa in the city.

Sadly, we decided to take a taxi but it wasn’t until we were moving along the road that I realised the error of my ways. I didn’t want to use any form of transport other than my own feet until after I reach Finisterre. But the deed has been done (twice because we returned by taxi also) and I am very glad we took a few hours off pilgrim duties to flop about in (really hot and slightly smelly) pools that were supposed to be hot, hotter and scalding, but in fact the hot one was weighing in at 40 degrees centigrade and the other two pools felt much the same. We hadn’t realised before paying 4 euros entry fee that there was a free equivalent on the river bank right alongside where we were. I couldn’t take any photos in the private baths but here are a few of the public area. Both were equally lovely and enjoyed by all.

After doing nothing but moving from one pool to another for a couple of hours I felt absolutely exhausted and not a little wrinkly, but I expect to feel the benefit in the morning when I set off on tomorrow’s stage at full pelt.

We enjoyed a great dinner last evening and here is the proof – Wilfried at the end and Swiss Peter on the right. Peter is apparently going posh this evening and staying in a hostel. We shall probably lose sight of Aase and Wilfried tomorrow because they are aiming go reach Santiago in four days, whereas Paul and I are planning to arrive in five days. This is mainly so that I will coincide with Super George when he returns from Finisterre on the 26th.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 23.5 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 364 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 734 metres
Total distance walked 1,204.1 km, average 27.4 km per day

Contrary to the weather forecast, when I left the albergue this morning there was no hint of wind, although it was cold – 6 degrees centigrade I am told. I was well wrapped up and set off along the road for the first few km’s. I stoppd for my morning drink after less than 4 km at the charming donativo cafe ‘Sendero del Peregrino’ in A Souteleira (look them up on facebook).

I have been taking photos of the camino markers that have been carved into local chunks of granite by a ‘famous’ artist. Unfortunately I do not know the artist’s name, but some of the markers are very attractive.

You may have noticed a distinct lack of stork photos over the last week or so. I haven’t seen one now for several days. But as one photo opportunity disappears, so another raises its profile and I was delighted today to see my first horreo – a construction for storing corn, mostly very ancient although occasionally more modern examples can be seen. They often have a religious symbol on the roof and are raised off the ground by granite ‘mushroom’ shapes, which stop rodents from climbing up and eating the spoils I also discovered a different way of storing corn today – most attractive.

There were several stretches of the walk that meandered through woodland – I am seeing more pine trees now and the smell is lovely.

I took another break at the village of Alberguería where there is an amazing cafe where there are hundreds, probably thousands, of scallop shells upon which pilgrims have written their details and now adorn every surface and hanging space. Quite a sight.

I took the opportunity of this stop over to strip off some of my layers as I had now warmed up. But I hadn’t taken into account that I was about to hike up an enormous hill and with the increasing height came an increasing wind that became increasingly cold. All layers were reapplied a bit swiftly.

There was more beautiful moorland and woodland, and although the sky became increasingly threatening, I only felt a couple of light spots of rain and it came to nothing.

After a long trek on an arrow-straight farm track we re-entered woodland for the last few km’s – a lovely way to end the walk, which was more or less the same length as yeaterday’s, but seemed a bit longer.

My little gang, now consisting of Paul, Danish Aase, German Wilfried and Swiss Peter all arrived at our destination within a few minutes of eachother and were amazed to find the 24 place albergue quite full. We all had to accept top bunks, whilst wondering where everyone had come from. Mostly it seems they walked a short stage from Alberguería. We greeted Jesus and Mary, and a few other faces we had seen previously.

My phone decided to turn itself off towards the end of the day’s walk so I don’t have my own details for you, but here are the stats from someone else who has posted to wikiloc.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 34.3 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 1,020 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 938 metres
Total distance walked 1,180.6 km, average 27.4 km per day

A very strong wind picked up last evening which was howling all night and was still raging this morning.

I wrapped up with fleece sleeves under my raincoat, my buff head band over my ears, and my sock gloves keeping my hands from freezing. It was a different sort of cold from the frosty mornings of a few days ago, not so raw but definitely very chilly. I stowed my walking poles as it is very difficult to use them efficiently with my thumbs locked into the socks and also a very strong wind can blow them off course and in front of my legs which could cause a trip.

My notes described the walk as ‘being on top of the world’ which would have been fabulous on a balmy spring day, but not quite so great when battling through a gale force wind. The surroundings were marvellous – big undulating hills covered in heather and gorse with views for miles around. A huge reservoir came into sight with bright sapphire coloured water.

My head started to hurt from the cold so I wrapped my infinity buff around my ears and put my hood up – I am setting trends all along this camino! I was striding at quite a pace and was enjoying walking without my poles for a change, but after around 12 km I started to get an ache in my back and as soon as I put the poles into action it disappeared immediately. I passed everyone in front of me, was given swift chase by a spanish guy who seemed not to like me (a mere woman?) passing him – but I joined in his game and kept him at bay until we came to a very severe and long descent on shale, at which point I slowed right down for safety’s sake and let him rush past. We exchanged a few words – he is from Santiago de Compostela, so I complimented him on his city as I ate his dust.

The first stop was at 20 km in the tiny village of Campobecerros, where I stopped at the first cafe and ordered an extra large Cola Cao (hot chocolate) and a bacon butty. A well deserved treat. Slowly but surely my latest walking companions arrived and all were compelled by the aroma of my bacon to order it for themselves. I think the friendly señora at the bar was quite pleased with my choice.

The walk continued on quiet road and beautiful mountainside track until I made s stop at a tiny village where a very kind woman called Marisol offered passing pilgrims refreshment and snacks on a donativo basis. We had a lovely chat. She has walked all the caminos that pass through Galicia, but only within Galicia. It made a nice break before reaching my destinstion at 36.1 km.

The Xunta albergue is in a modern building with very good facilities. 32 places in 4 dormitories with separate bathroom facilities. No privacy in the shower but my affront at facing this indignity last year has faded a bit. I just got on with it – as a good pilgrim should. Fully working kitchen and disposable sheet and pillow case. 6€.

One of the guys that had already arrived looked vaguely familiar, and when I heard him speak I immediately recognised him. We had walked a few of the same stages on the camino Portuguese last year and stayed in the same albergues in Villafranca de Xira and Santarém. What a very small world!

The last couple of nights I have eaten with Dutch Marga, who has now dropped back a stage, German Wilfried, Swiss Peter, Danish Orsen (I know that will not be how her name is spelt, but it is how it sounds) and Paul. I really thought I would lose Paul’s company today because we wasn’t planning to walk this long stage, but here he is again, so I still have the last member of my long ago pilgrim family.

The wind is forecast to be very strong again tomorrow and we have a severe climb for the first few km’s, so a hard morning coming up…

Distance according to Wikiloc – 36 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 584 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 1,051 metres
Total distance walked 1,146.3 km, average 27.3 km per day

I’m not sure if I mentioned yesterday our farewell dinner with Alke and Patrick. It was decided that Paul would make a lentil dish, Patrick would cook pasta with vegetables and Alke would make a salad. So I went off and found a bar by the river – well, I didn’t want to get in anyone’s way! I returned just as it was ready to be served and it looked, and tasted delicious. And for penance I did the washing up. P and A have a flight booked home on 6 June so have loads of time to take a steady stroll into Santiago so we probably won’t see them again, unless I get to meet up with them after I have returned from Finisterre. We have exchanged contact details, so hopefully something can be arranged.

Today took us over the highest point on this camino at 1,364 metres.

The day started very fresh, and misty alongside the river. I stashed my walking poles for the first hour and kept my hands from freezing with my sock gloves. It was a pleasant walk alongside the water but walking through the dewy grass absolutely soaked my boots and I just knew that my feet were turning wrinkly inside my wet socks.

I hoped to find a hot drink at the first village of Terroso but alas no bar, but there was a very kind gentleman who was very keen to put a stamp in my credencial. A few km’s further on found a bar in Requejo de Sanabria where I took the opportunity to change into dry socks and change my insoles. I pinned the wet socks to the back of my pack to dry out and went on my way, heeding local knowledge to keep to the road rather than the actual camino, which was impassable in places due to the works for the new AVE train line.

There were quite a few km’s on a wide road, but with virtually no traffic, it being Sunday and there being a motorway nearby. I took the opportunity to divert back onto the original ‘way’ for a lovely walk through beautiful flowers and past raging waterfalls before reaching the village of Padornelo where I refreshed with a cold fizzy drink.

Then it was another stretch on the road before diverting onto a lovely path, albeit with difficult footing, through woodland and meadows until I reached my destination at Lubián.

The albergue here is very basic, with sixteen places in bunks, with only one bathroom, but good sized sitting area and kitchen. Luckily I was one of the early arrivals, preceded by the Korean/Spanish couple (still don’t know their names) who took a taxi part way, and a cyclist. So I got my shower in quickly before anyone else arrived. There are no pillows or blankets at this albergue and the mattresses have awful rubber covers. Arrivals before I wrote the above were two Germans guys, two Spanish guys (including the fab José Antonio) Paul, Dutch woman and K/S couple. Who knows who will be there when I get back.

It’s quite a sizeable village with granite and stone buildings with slate roofs.

I enjoyed the walk today despite the elevation, but the last couple of km’s, which I found difficult underfoot, left me feeling a bit tired.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 29.6 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 547 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 415 metres
Total distance walked 1,084.8 km, average 27.1 km per day

Another lovely and very short day today. More beautiful stone villages en route and a few water features to negotiate. A cold start with frozen fingers, but the sun came through after about an hour and thawed me out.

As I was walking through these charming but largely ruined villages I wondered what they had looked like before they started to fall apart at the seams.

I can’t do justice in words as to how wonderful the flowers were today, hopefully the photos will do the talking for me. Not only yellow and white broom, but now added to the mix is purple heather, yellow gorse and a yellow flower that looks like cistus but I haven’t seen it in a yellow variety before. The heather reminds me that we are nearing Galicia.

We walked through quite a lot of grass today and it was full of morning dew, which gave my boots a good soaking – I’m not sure they were ever very waterproof, but they certainly aren’t now!

As we approached the village of Otero de Sanabria we were heralded by beautiful classical music but couldn’t work out where it was coming from. It is a large village and as we wound our way through the delightful streets we could hear this wonderful sound loud and clear. It was quite magical. As I am writing this I asked a couple of Dutch women who were walking a while behind us if they heard it and they had discovered from one of the villagers that it was coming from a church that we hadn’t seen.

The last few km’s were walked on the road, but it was mostly very quiet and we were only passed by one car, and the flora on either side remained the same. I had opted for a short stage today, as Puebla de Sanabria is a large town with many facilities and I hoped to buy a couple of items that needed to be replaced, namely gloves and battery charger. My charger worked fine at the beginning of my camino, progressed to working intermittently and finally gave up the ghost ten or so days ago. This means that I haven’t listened to to any music for all this time, and as the big climbs are approaching I thought I could do with all the help I can get to keep my pace going.

My phone keeps going for between 35-40 km’s using the two GPS apps but I always want to have a bit of battery in reserve for an emergency phone call. So today would be my only possibility to buy a new charger.

We arrived very early into the private albergue Casa Luz (12€) on the edge of the town, preceded only by two South African cyclists. Lower bunk was bagged and lovely shower was taken before I set off for the historic part of the town, which entailed (there were options) climbing 230 steps up to the castle walls. Once in the old town I could at last discover how these places looked before they fell into ruin. This town is magical, beautifully maintained without being overdone. I have been totally charmed.

Added to this joy, I was told on enquiry that there was indeed a technology shop where I could probably buy a charger. Hurrah! I found said shop, but it was locked up. Boo! The sign on the door said it was open from 10:00 – 14:00 on Saturdays and it was only 12:30. I optimistically returned to the shop three times, hoping that the owner had just popped out on an errand, but no such luck. It remained obstinately locked and I remained sadly without a new charger.

There are lots of new faces here today, but gladly Patrick and Alke have arrived and we are going to share a home made dinner tonight because tomorrow we will be walking different stages and we probably won’t see them again.

The lovely Jose Antonio is here. He is the gayest gay man I have ever met and he is absolutely lovely, very funny and entertaining. Plus two other guys who haven’t been very communicative yet, and the two Dutch women, one of whom has just joined her friend for a week and is returning home tomorrow (I thought her legs looked a bit white!). And two more cyclists have just turned up.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 15.9 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 203 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 274 metres
Total distance walked 1,055.2 km, average 27 km per day

Well, if yesterday started off chilly, today was bloody freezing and I have the photos to prove it! The hand socks were pulled on, the buff headband was applied over the visor (could be a new look, but unfortunately I didn’t get to see what a great style it was), and the rain jacket kept the fresh air off my chest. But once the sun lifted in the sky, the air warmed and all was well. The sky was a stunning deep shade of blue all day without a cloud to be seen, but a fresh light breeze kept conditions perfect.

Today was another delight. Just how I like it. Lots of villages between start and finish and each one increasingly pretty and charming, with many stone buildings and an abundance of bright orange California poppies lining the village streets.

I stopped for a coffee at Mombuey and bought a new supply of tissues to receive the industrial waste that my nose has been producing for weeks. Once past this sizeable town I was on a path lined with brambles and in true Beatrix Potter style Peter Rabbit and all his friends came out to play, darting across the path and challenging me to catch them on camera. I did actually manage one shot, but by luck rather than judgement.

A couple of km’s further, much larger animals came out to play on the track and I managed to catch a shot of what I think was a deer, although I couldn’t be sure as it was some distance away and unfortunately the camera was on macro setting so it is very blurred, but it is certainly there. I was told yesterday that there are wolves in this area, that have been so successful in breeding that they are culled every year. Wouldn’t a wolf be a great addition to my portfolio?

Butterflies were also out in force today, flitting around showing off their spectacular colours – such a variety – and all avoiding my attempts to catch them on camera.

The tracks were once again lined with yellow and white broom and the aroma was delicious. A couple of big hills made me puff a bit, but there are plenty more to come over the next few days. I am very glad that the great delights of this camino were at the beginning and the end, and the parts that were perhaps a bit boring were in the middle. I am looking forward to the last couple of weeks of this camino – entering Galicia in three days and reaching Santiago on the 26th. I will then walk to Finisterre and spend a rest day there and (if flights permit) return home on 1 June. Paul, with whom have been keeping pace for more than two weeks, isn’t sure he wants to do 30+ km days when we get to more mountainous country. I will be sad to lose his very easy company, but I really want to reach Santiago by the 26th so that I can meet up with George before setting off for the final few days towards the Atlantic Ocean.

Paul caught up with me about two thirds of the way and we arrived at our destination of Asturianos together, where we are staying in a rather unusual albergue, attached to the town’s polideportivo (sports centre). There are six beds in three bunks. Jesus and Mary had arrived before us and taken two lower beds and I took a top bunk in recognition of Paul’s great(er) age – there’s friendship for you. Then arrived the Korean/spanish couple (still haven’t learned their names) and the stragglers had to make do with mattresses on the floor, thus far Alke and Patrick and Jose Antonio. The albergue is some distance outside the town and has a bar attached, which seemed a bit strange at first, but it is well used by locals. The facilities are excellent and clean and the cost is 4€, and the surrounding grounds are beautiful.

I must tell you about the gastronomic delights of last night. After our tuna mousse appetiser, we were served cardo braised in cream and served with almonds. I first thought I was eating chunky celery, but found that cardo translates as thistle. Apparently though, it is neither thistle nor celery, but a very large plant that grows to around a metre and a half and is traditionally served in Northern Spain for Christmas lunch. It was delicious. Then followed a scrumptious wild mushroom risotto. The third course for the vegetarians was cod with vegetables cooked in foil, and for us carnivores pork loin with lots of garlic and a crunchy apple salad. We finished with tiramisu and icecream. The incredible 10€ price included as much wine as desired, a liquor and coffee to finish. I am sure this will be the best food eaten on any menu del dia at that price. And the fabulous chef/owner made me a breakfast bocadillo with the meat I couldn’t eat. (All that garlic was a good way to start the day – lucky I was walking alone!)

Distance according to Wikiloc – 27.7 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 291 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 102 metres
Total distance walked 1,039.3 km, average 27.4 km per day

Brrr, it was a bit chilly today. A fresh and strong head wind was with us all the way. But it was a lovely walking day. I stopped off at the church in the next village, less than a kilometre along the road, to see the carving that has special significance as the oldest surviving statue of St James, dating from 1100.

And then in no time at all I was walking through farm and woodland with small plots alongside the Rio Tera. It was very pretty. There was a stretch when the track widened to the familiar gravel road when we were in the vicinity of some earth works and a quarry, but we were soon alongside the river again, winding through plantations of tall trees. There is a lot of water in this area which makes a nice change – the river is very wide and I took some nice photos of the sunrise and clouds reflected in the water.

After a couple of hours Paul had caught up with me and we walked several km’s beside a canal before stopping at 15 km for a hot drink. I saw some lovely examples of the adobe constructed buildings that had definitely stood the test of time. I presume they no longer build in this material and I should think these are quite old but I guess they have been maintained.

The villages today have been a bit prettier than those we have passed through recently, which are mostly quite unremarkable, bordering on being rather run down and lacking character. But today there were more stone buildings, although mostly in ruins. I don’t suppose the locals appreciate them, but they give the place such charm.

We then found a beautiful path that apparently lots of people miss. Luckily my guide had mentioned it and so I was looking out for it. There is a huge dam that we had to walk towards along a very narrow and overgrown track – it was quite an adventure and I had to bend low under overhanging branches to avoid getting my backpack caught up, and use my sticks to push away the shrubs that were growing over the path. We went uphill and down, sometimes so close to the river that I could have splashed my hands in it and the scenery was beautiful, with rock roses, white and yellow broom, wild peonies, lavender, campanula and many others, all the time passing oak trees that were completely covered in lichen. I imagined I was walking through an enchanted wood. And then we reached the foot of the dam and commenced a climb up along a service road that eventually led us across the top of the dam and I could see that the level of the water on the other side was very high and very choppy in the strong wind.

We were then walking along an agricultural road with the same plants surrounding us and the possibility to walk a few metres off the road to reach some beaches along the edge of the lake. It was a bit too cold for a dip, but I bet many pilgrims take to the water when it is warmer.

We came across a small donativo albergue in the tiny village of Villar de Farfón. It is run by a South African couple who also offer passing pilgrims refreshment, so of course we stopped for a chat and a coffee. Apparently when they moved into the village with their two daughters they doubled the population from four to eight. It looked to be a lovely place to stay, but preferably in the warm weather as I suspect it could be a bit chilly at other times.

It was then just another hour or so until we reached our destination of Rionegro where we are staying in a magnificent new albergue with two floors and 32 places, kitchen, washing machine and dryer. Really recommended at 7€.

Today I have met up with Jesus and Mary who I first encountered on day 19 and saw on and off for a week or so. It was nice to catch up after such a long while and they are staying at the Albergue, along with Alke and Patrick, a Korean/Spanish couple who were there last night, and a youngish man of unknown nationality (just discovered he is Spanish and has started his camino today).

And we are eating in a gastronomic haven opposite the Albergue that is very highly recommended by a French couple I bumped into earlier and also raved about by Jesus and Mary. So our expectations are high. And all for the price of a 10€ menu. And as we have to wait a while whilst the supplies arrive we have been given a tuna mousse aperitif. I shall report back tomorrow.

I got a bit excited yesterday when I thought I would be arriving in Santiago at the same time as Super George and we could then walk together to Finisterre, and finish what we began so long ago. But then today I realised that I had forgotten to include five stages in my calculations, so that I will now meet with him when he returns to Santiago after walking to the coast for a reunion and farewell celebration.

Distance according to Wikiloc – 29.6 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 182 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 93 metres
Total distance walked 1,011.6 km, average 27.3 km per day

The scene of my successful attempt at finding wifi yesterday took place in restaurant/bar El Roble. Half way through my stay the landlady came over and put her phone in my hand, so that I could speak to some English speaking enquirers. As a prize for sorting out their reservation she refused payment for my wine – so now I am a paid translator!

By the time I returned to the Albergue there had arrived a total of six cyclists, all Italian I think, and a young German lad on foot. Also joining us were Alke and Patrick and a spanish guy who was there when we arrived, making the man:woman ratio 12:2. So we were fourteen for dinner, which consisted of noodle soup, a meat based paella and fruit, followed up with fire water. It was all very pleasant and after dinner José the hospitalero of this donativo Albergue handed around a box from which each of us took a lucky dip of a sentiment written on a card – mine is shown below. Very charming. And then we were treated to a recital on the spanish guitar by the spanish guy Tomas, which rounded off the night perfectly.

We were all instructed not to set alarms, but that we would be awoken at 06.30 with music and breakfast would be at 07:00. There was a very pleasant atmosphere, even with all the cyclists, who can be a bit over-bearing – but not in this instance.

I set off around 07:00, first of all on a very quiet country road and then once again onto a series wide gravel tracks. There were some wind turbines high above and I waited for the sun to be directly behind one of the blades to take a photo for my great friend Lyn who works in the industry.

A couple of the cyclists passed me with a cheery ‘buen camino’; but it did make me smile when the next couple passed and almost immediately came to a stop when a steep hill presented itself. I was soon walking back past them, and just to rub salt in the wound I stopped at the top of the hill to look down on them and take a photo.

We are seeing a lot of adobe buildings, some still standing and in use, and others like this ruin by the side of the track today. I love the look and texture of these structures – amazing how a bit of mud mixed with stones and straw can stand the test of time.

It was a fairly unremarkable day, albeit with some pretty flowers lining the path at times.

I had it in mind to walk around 35 km today, but when there was mention of a very lovely Albergue with wifi, dinner, pretty garden and clean sheets at 22 km, I was instantly lured in and stopped off at this point without a second thought. The day had promised great heat, but shortly after I stopped walking a brisk breeze and cloudy skies developed – possibly an ideal day to walk a longer distance. But hey, I’m here, and was the first to shower in a freshly cleaned cubicle and have been charmed by the lovely hospitalera sisters here at ‘Casa Anita’. The forecast is for cooler weather over the next few days so I can catch up on lost time along the line.

An update on the shortcut dilemma – I met today with a French guy called Jean-Marc, who also took the shortcut along the highway yesterday. He said he hated it, it was very dangerous and it was a big mistake. So now I am even more pleased that I didn’t take this route.

So far in this Albergue are Paul and me, the German brothers we have seen on and off for a few days (whom I have christened the ‘chuckle brothers’), another German guy (all in their sixties I imagine), a German woman, another middle-aged couple who are new to me and not very communicative and the lovely Alke and Patrick.

I have bought supplies including cava and have swapped some of my alcohol for Paul’s orange juice so that we have enjoyed a couple of Buck’s Fizzes and am now sitting in the garden writing this post. The costs here are 12€ for the bed and 10€ for the menu del dia, so a bit of a budget buster, but worth every centimo!

Distance according to Wikiloc – 22.4 km
Accumulated elevation uphill 238 metres
Accumulated elevation downhill 273 metres
Total distance walked 982 km, average 27.3 km per day